BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

This is my first LS1 car, I have limited tuning exp with my old LT1 car via Tuner CATS. My car is a 2002 T/A with some mods, it was bone stock. It now has SLP Flow pack, Dynatech Supermaxx kit with cats and a corsa exhaust, stock tune. Bosch 13111 Vette o2 sensors in the upstream, stock sensors for after the cats (down stream). I got about 200 miles on it, the plugs look brand new with a lil ashy residue on the top of the metal tab. No pings, no SES light, runs strong.

My stock 30k plugs had nice color, cinnomin (sp), rust color, these are leaner.

I am 99% certain about going HP tuners and seems like a very user friendly system, I have a guy that tunes but for now I dont have alot of cash for a custom dyno tune. The shop did drill for a wide band o2 bung before the cat so I can get accurate readings for the tune.

Reading through the FAQ's it seems at this time I just want to adjust the V8 Power Enrich Fuel EQ Ratio vs. RPM: http://www.hptuners.com/help/ (then... Working with VCM Editor, Tuning How To's, Basics , Air/Fuel Ratio)


which is described as...

This is the main table that is used to tune WOT fuel for post 1999 V8 engines. The values in this table are Equivalence Ratio's (Fuel/Air multipliers or AFR divisors) ie. values greater than one are richer, values less than one are leaner. The values relate directly to the Stoich AFR and the resulting commanded AFR is Stoich divided by this PE equivalence ratio. Eg. if the multiplier is 1.1 then the commanded AFR will be 14.7/1.1 or 13.36.

I am not interested in making power, or a full tune, the car will get a cam this winter, in 2007/Spring time 2008, I want to ensure safe driving in the mean time.

Basically I am asking what is your exp here and are there other factors/tables that needs to be adjusted or will making a WOT/PE change more then needed. On this bolt on car.

I will be contacting my tuner, but he is not in until Monday, thanks again!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Pull a plug, take a look at one. I'd do #7, because that one tends to run the leanest. If there's any sign of detonation on the plug at all, any spotting etc.etc. I'd park the car until you can get it tuned.

Have eastside do it and pay for it once. It's 400 bucks, cheaper then buying the software and will save you a TON of headaches in the long run.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

on a bolt on car its alot of personal preferance really as to what you change...start small ie fan temp settings, rev/speed limiters, tq management then as you start getting more familiar with the software & tables within you can expand what you tweak...for the most part the stock tuning will last a while with just bolt ons before you NEED to change things...of course any car can definitly gain by changing things,but nothing that needs to be changed right away.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I can see your point about starting small and see how things change and that the stock tune should do well, but when I get comfortable enough, is the way that was described in the help section of the site, is that the proper way of doing things?