Help with 408 tune....
09-12-2007, 11:38 PM
#1
Help with 408 tune.... I'm having some cold-start issues with my setup. It's an 11.5:1 408, Trickflows/PatrickG cam (242ish/246ish)/FAST.
I have to give it plenty of gas when I cold start it, and it feels like it's running horrible. After 30-45 seconds, it's perfectly fine. I can't afford to let it sit and idle to warm up all the time with houses in close proximity (plus I'm impatient). Once I get backed out of my long ***, usually crowded, driveway, and down the street a bit, it comes to a stop and idles fine. It really feels like it's getting a ****-ton of fuel or something. The TB is drilled out from when I was cam only, but only to like 7/32".
I've got it running in open loop on raw MAF data from 400rpm up (instead of 4000 and up). The MAF is stock, even has the stock screen in it. It runs/drives GREAT. Throttle response is super sensitive and crisp. It's also got a *slight* buck around 1800-2k when driving 30-40mph, but runs great at 1500 lol.
Any ideas on the startup/bucking? General ways to go about fixing them?
My wideband (LC-1) is also driving me insane. It sits on 20:1 90% of the time, and plunges to 10:1 with even the SLIGHTEST bump of the throttle. Every now and then it snaps into reality and starts reading 14.5-15.0 while cruising, but I've lost all faith in it. I've put in a new sensor and jacked with the grounds several times with no progress. I sent an email to Innovative and I'm hoping to hear back from them. Here's a copy of the tune, sorry for the long read!
I have to give it plenty of gas when I cold start it, and it feels like it's running horrible. After 30-45 seconds, it's perfectly fine. I can't afford to let it sit and idle to warm up all the time with houses in close proximity (plus I'm impatient). Once I get backed out of my long ***, usually crowded, driveway, and down the street a bit, it comes to a stop and idles fine. It really feels like it's getting a ****-ton of fuel or something. The TB is drilled out from when I was cam only, but only to like 7/32".
I've got it running in open loop on raw MAF data from 400rpm up (instead of 4000 and up). The MAF is stock, even has the stock screen in it. It runs/drives GREAT. Throttle response is super sensitive and crisp. It's also got a *slight* buck around 1800-2k when driving 30-40mph, but runs great at 1500 lol.
Any ideas on the startup/bucking? General ways to go about fixing them?
My wideband (LC-1) is also driving me insane. It sits on 20:1 90% of the time, and plunges to 10:1 with even the SLIGHTEST bump of the throttle. Every now and then it snaps into reality and starts reading 14.5-15.0 while cruising, but I've lost all faith in it. I've put in a new sensor and jacked with the grounds several times with no progress. I sent an email to Innovative and I'm hoping to hear back from them. Here's a copy of the tune, sorry for the long read!
09-13-2007, 01:21 AM
#2
1. RAF set to arbitrary ballpark values, not a measured adjustment
2. MAF only, set to ignore VE tables right away, probably done by some Ford convert
3. idle spark has a big 'blanketed' areas not nicely sloped ones for an easy recovery
4. regular spark table is completely not blended with the idle spark tables
5. under- and over- idle spark control tables zeroed out.
6. stock PE triggers
that's just what i see in the tune that i'd consider wrong. post some logs and then we'll have a real fun with it
2. MAF only, set to ignore VE tables right away, probably done by some Ford convert
3. idle spark has a big 'blanketed' areas not nicely sloped ones for an easy recovery
4. regular spark table is completely not blended with the idle spark tables
5. under- and over- idle spark control tables zeroed out.
6. stock PE triggers
that's just what i see in the tune that i'd consider wrong. post some logs and then we'll have a real fun with it
09-13-2007, 01:53 AM
#3
1. I played with the RAF tables until it idled "decent". The car used to have a 253/263 cam, so it took some tweaking lol.
2. I read a thread about the MAF only "tuning method", tried it out, and it worked awesome. I KNEW the VE was wrong, and my wideband doesn't work (yet), so I figured it would be better. This way the car would get its airflow data from an untouched MAF and be semi-accurate than to get it from a semi-accurate MAF and a totally inaccurate VE.
3. I tweaked spark to get the vacuum up and make it idle better (when I had huge cam), seemed to work decent now so I haven't gone back and messed with it.
4. Didn't know I needed to blend them.
5. I zero'd the spark control trying to make it idle "steady" and not surge with the huge cam, can probably change that back now.
6. Figured they worked decent?
I'm still learning.
After it's warmed up, the car runs great, surprisingly enough. It seems to run/drive better than with the 232/234 cam-only motor and has tons more power/torque even with the minimal tuning work I've done. If this tropical storm doesn't float my car away, I'll try to get out and do a nice drive/log and post it up.
2. I read a thread about the MAF only "tuning method", tried it out, and it worked awesome. I KNEW the VE was wrong, and my wideband doesn't work (yet), so I figured it would be better. This way the car would get its airflow data from an untouched MAF and be semi-accurate than to get it from a semi-accurate MAF and a totally inaccurate VE.
3. I tweaked spark to get the vacuum up and make it idle better (when I had huge cam), seemed to work decent now so I haven't gone back and messed with it.
4. Didn't know I needed to blend them.
5. I zero'd the spark control trying to make it idle "steady" and not surge with the huge cam, can probably change that back now.
6. Figured they worked decent?
I'm still learning.
After it's warmed up, the car runs great, surprisingly enough. It seems to run/drive better than with the 232/234 cam-only motor and has tons more power/torque even with the minimal tuning work I've done. If this tropical storm doesn't float my car away, I'll try to get out and do a nice drive/log and post it up.
Last edited by TheBlurLS1; 09-13-2007 at 02:00 AM.
09-13-2007, 02:05 AM
#4
Blur- I'm not where I can view your tune, but some of the issues may also be the colder temp OL fueling. If you still have a copy of my tune, you can see the OL fuel changes and the blending of the timing (High/Low Octane tables and the Park/ In Gear idle timing). I bumped my idle timing areas and it is very stable hot or cold. I'm also in OLSD, but my WB works. I bet you are too rich at start up along with RHSs recommendations.
