Lost_in_calgary

My questions:

Can the '92-'98 Jeep Grand Cherokee box be swapped into a 1969 Firebird? What is the effect of the increased steering box movement? Do the internal stops on the steering box "dump" hydraulic pressure, stopping the power assist?


Here is what I found searching:
The 1969 Firebird had a steering box movement of 32degrees.
The Jeep has a steering box movement of 43+/- degrees, 12.7:1 ratio.
The 3rd gen Camaro high performance suspension box has 31 degrees movement, 12.7:1 ratio.
The Chevy G body mid 80's with performance suspenion had 39+/- degree of box movement, 12:7:1 ratio.
The Chevy B body last 80's to mid 90's with performance suspension had 43+/- degrees of movement, 12.7:1 ratio.

Finding a Camaro, G body or B body with performance suspension at a local yard is going to be impossible; the Jeep is will be the easiest to find. Buying a remanufactured box seems to be hit and miss if you actually get a 12.7:1 ratio box.

I know the internal stops on the Jeep box will not come into play as the steering knuckle stops will contact the a-arms first limiting steering movement, but will the power assist try to rip the knuckles from the a-arms at full lock (I guess this only applies if power assist is "dumped" at the internal box limits)?

tuske427

iTrader: (1)

read this:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e/viewall.html

I would think you could locate a B body one from a cop car. They seem to be plentiful in yards.

Lost_in_calgary

The B-Body perfromance suspension is nearly identical to the Jeep steering box, both are 40-43 degree steering box movement.

I have seen a read that article you linked too, but again there is no comments on using a box with more travel than the steering linkage allows.

Is there a drawback to running this type of setup? The factory obviously used both internal stops and steering linkage stops for a reason... just wondering how bad and what are the issues or problems.

tuske427

iTrader: (1)

I think you're fine using the steering box with more steering travel. However, you really should add some mechanical steering stops to limit your steering if needed. If you don't the issue you would most likely run into is your wheels hitting against the frame and/ or sheet metal. The danger here, of course, is damaging your tire while at speed (or worse- it grabbing against the car causing the wheel to turn even further or lock up) and potentially causing an accident, not to mention damage to your car and/ or you.

If you do add them- the beauty is you can tune your steering travel to its maximum. Of course, be sure to check for brake line clearance/ travel. If you do extend your steering travel beyond stock I highly recommend that you remove a coil spring and check your steering travel through the full suspension range to make sure there is no possibility of issue.

The steering linkage itself are just mechanical pieces designed to rotate and pivot. You can fully rotate ball joints, etc so you won't hurt them by having them work a little farther. Just check and confirm clearance through full steering sweep/ suspension travel.

Yes, the best case scenario would be to have both the steering stop at the same time as the gear box stops. this is a double fail safe. The next best is the steering stops that mechanically stop the steering arm, and lastly (a distant third, IMO) would be relying on the gearbox itself to limit steering travel. I say this because if anything in your steering linkage fails- your wheel is again free to travel further than intended. a mechanical steering stop eliminates this.

I hope this helps.

tuske427

iTrader: (1)

BTW I have one more link for you to check out if you haven't seen it already:

http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm

Great page for a lot of information on steering and suspension in general.