p1153 code
04-30-2015, 12:38 PM
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
p1153 code posted this in the pcm and diagnostic section but figured I might get some different insite here.
Did a search but didnt really see the answer I was looking for, and this is my first go around with this code.
it refers to the pre cat 02 for bank 2 (which is passengerside) in my search I found a pretty lengthy list as to the cause of this code. I have longtubes have had for a long time, this particular o2 sensor was replaced recently 3 years ago but less than 100 miles ago i dont drive her much and when I do its to work and back and I have a pretty short commute like under 5 minutes short.
Now it did mention this code could be caused by a misfire, but wouldnt that throw a few other codes with it? (this was the only code that came up when I scanned) Now keep in mind this car still needs a final tune (long story for another time) I changed the plugs recently so I suppose one of the plug wires isnt on tight enough (I feel like im asnwering my own question here) but I would think it would be noticeable if I was not running on all cylinders? Edit : it stood out at the time and it just hit me that when I changed my plugs the one closest to the fire wall (cylinder 8 i believe) was pretty clean and the rest were black and wet looking (new I fouled them cause she wouldnt start). Maybe I should be digging into that a bit more and see if that coil and plug wire are working/plugged in all the way
Is there a way to identify if I have a misfire with no code present? ( I know I could take a laser thermometer and hit each primary to see what temp im getting) Is there a method to check the coil packs to see if they are all working properly on passenger side? Im a just reading to much into it and I should clear the code and keep going?
Im wanting to get the tune finished this June, but its a bit of an ordeal as there are no dyno shops close to me and I dont quite feel comfortable taking it on a 2 hr road trip so it would need to be trailered. I just feel like this is something I need to dig into, so I dont make the trip only to find out I have a larger issue that keeps me from getting a successful dyno run.
First shop I went to didnt finish the tune as he didnt have 60lb injector scaling, so it was tuned as a 42lb that setup on the fat side until I could make it back. That tuner left, and then the shop closed so I found a guy that would come to me and set the scaling right but wouldnt do a road tune. Than I ran into some job change issues that limited my play money, so the car has set for a few years. Im now in a better place and want....NEED to finish it so Im trying to get everything in working order before I make a trip....rant sorry
thanks guys
Did a search but didnt really see the answer I was looking for, and this is my first go around with this code.
it refers to the pre cat 02 for bank 2 (which is passengerside) in my search I found a pretty lengthy list as to the cause of this code. I have longtubes have had for a long time, this particular o2 sensor was replaced recently 3 years ago but less than 100 miles ago i dont drive her much and when I do its to work and back and I have a pretty short commute like under 5 minutes short.
Now it did mention this code could be caused by a misfire, but wouldnt that throw a few other codes with it? (this was the only code that came up when I scanned) Now keep in mind this car still needs a final tune (long story for another time) I changed the plugs recently so I suppose one of the plug wires isnt on tight enough (I feel like im asnwering my own question here) but I would think it would be noticeable if I was not running on all cylinders? Edit : it stood out at the time and it just hit me that when I changed my plugs the one closest to the fire wall (cylinder 8 i believe) was pretty clean and the rest were black and wet looking (new I fouled them cause she wouldnt start). Maybe I should be digging into that a bit more and see if that coil and plug wire are working/plugged in all the way
Is there a way to identify if I have a misfire with no code present? ( I know I could take a laser thermometer and hit each primary to see what temp im getting) Is there a method to check the coil packs to see if they are all working properly on passenger side? Im a just reading to much into it and I should clear the code and keep going?
Im wanting to get the tune finished this June, but its a bit of an ordeal as there are no dyno shops close to me and I dont quite feel comfortable taking it on a 2 hr road trip so it would need to be trailered. I just feel like this is something I need to dig into, so I dont make the trip only to find out I have a larger issue that keeps me from getting a successful dyno run.
First shop I went to didnt finish the tune as he didnt have 60lb injector scaling, so it was tuned as a 42lb that setup on the fat side until I could make it back. That tuner left, and then the shop closed so I found a guy that would come to me and set the scaling right but wouldnt do a road tune. Than I ran into some job change issues that limited my play money, so the car has set for a few years. Im now in a better place and want....NEED to finish it so Im trying to get everything in working order before I make a trip....rant sorry
thanks guys
05-04-2015, 12:13 PM
#2
I would think there should be a code for a misfire, but I know when I bought my 02 it had a misfire and I didn't even know and there were no codes showing. It didn't shake very much and still had plenty of power. The only thing I noticed was when it would come to a stop it would almost stall out but would then catch itself (car is an auto). Not sure if the previous owner did anything for the car not to show a code but while the car is running you can pull the power connector to the coil pack and see if you notice a change in idle, that's what I did to figure out my misfire.
05-04-2015, 01:21 PM
#3
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
the reason I pulled the codes off of it, was because when I was trying to pull into the garage it sounded funny ( car has a pretty hefty cam so it lops pretty hard) but something sounded off and when I tried to let the clutch in 1st gear it stumbled and died. Not something common for me as both my cars are manuals. The only code in the system was the p1153, which I cleared.
Had a chat with my father in law ( runs his own hotrod shop) and he suggested the ECM collects the data for a misfire a longer period of time than i was running the car and that if I hadnt cleared the codes and drove it more it may have eventually set off a misfire code if thats my issue.
Seeing how my setup is far from stock we talked about a few things that could cause the 1153 code if it wasnt a misfire. Vaccum leaks that sort of thing, I have no PCV system just valve cover breathers so I checked and found a few of the rubber caps I used to block of stuff on the manifold and TB were dry rotted. Replaced those fired it up and it seemed more responsive but still has a dead spot in the 1500-2200 rpm range. Quick throttle pop results in a stumble though, so there is no quick rev you have to sort of sweep the throttle to get a good rev out of it. Im still trying to check the little vaccum port on the rear of the manifold that connects to the tie in for the ac system. Just cant get my mini cam back there at a good angle to see anything. may just yank the hose off and see what it looks like and hope I can fit it back on.
My harness is a stand alone so each coil is wired individually as opposed to the bulk connector of the factory harness. My coils aren't on the valve covers either. I need to check and make sure my number 8 injector is firing that may also be an issue. Some of the deadspot and throttle response may still be tune related though.
Had a chat with my father in law ( runs his own hotrod shop) and he suggested the ECM collects the data for a misfire a longer period of time than i was running the car and that if I hadnt cleared the codes and drove it more it may have eventually set off a misfire code if thats my issue.
Seeing how my setup is far from stock we talked about a few things that could cause the 1153 code if it wasnt a misfire. Vaccum leaks that sort of thing, I have no PCV system just valve cover breathers so I checked and found a few of the rubber caps I used to block of stuff on the manifold and TB were dry rotted. Replaced those fired it up and it seemed more responsive but still has a dead spot in the 1500-2200 rpm range. Quick throttle pop results in a stumble though, so there is no quick rev you have to sort of sweep the throttle to get a good rev out of it. Im still trying to check the little vaccum port on the rear of the manifold that connects to the tie in for the ac system. Just cant get my mini cam back there at a good angle to see anything. may just yank the hose off and see what it looks like and hope I can fit it back on.
My harness is a stand alone so each coil is wired individually as opposed to the bulk connector of the factory harness. My coils aren't on the valve covers either. I need to check and make sure my number 8 injector is firing that may also be an issue. Some of the deadspot and throttle response may still be tune related though.
05-05-2015, 11:31 AM
#4
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
did some more digging and I think i found the bulk of my issues, cylinder 8's plug wire had fell out of its holder and fell down on the header. its melted the black coating on the wire so cylinder 8 is likely firing but not well (which might explain why the plug for cylinder 8 was so clean when I swapped them out)
Ive got an extra set of plug wires I was saving for a different coil relocation project but Im gonna see if that takes care of my issues
Ive got an extra set of plug wires I was saving for a different coil relocation project but Im gonna see if that takes care of my issues
05-26-2015, 08:08 AM
#5
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
so here is the carnage and its a lot worse than it looked originally granted its a difficult area to see in
so i remade all my wires and relocated the coils again but the new location allows for better routing of the plug wires. I didnt get to drive it but when I fired it up I could definitely feel the power back in the rev, the stumble was still there but way better and may be entirely gone once the engine warms up. The wires were the originals from when I built the motor (really low mileage like under 2k) so there is no telling how long it had been that way and I didnt notice the change in the car or just attributed it to the car setting as much as it does.
so i remade all my wires and relocated the coils again but the new location allows for better routing of the plug wires. I didnt get to drive it but when I fired it up I could definitely feel the power back in the rev, the stumble was still there but way better and may be entirely gone once the engine warms up. The wires were the originals from when I built the motor (really low mileage like under 2k) so there is no telling how long it had been that way and I didnt notice the change in the car or just attributed it to the car setting as much as it does.
