600rwhp twin turbo ls2 build tips.
06-16-2014, 05:28 PM
#1
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600rwhp twin turbo ls2 build tips. I'm looking to put a twin turbo set up on my stock 2005 gto this winter to make around 600whp.
I'm just looking to see if anyone can tell me roughly what I'm gonna need to get there.
Any info would be appreciated
Thanks
I'm just looking to see if anyone can tell me roughly what I'm gonna need to get there.
Any info would be appreciated
Thanks
06-16-2014, 05:39 PM
#2
a lot.
intake, exhaust, fuel upgrades, tuning, obviously everything in a typical turbo kit, consider tranny and oil coolers etc. if you're gonna be hard on it.
Upgraded axle stubs, axles, driveshaft, mounts
trunion upgrade on the rockers, maybe go ls7 MAF, FAST intake, throttle body. VENTED PCV SYSTEM OR VACUUM PUMP
and typically you don't wanna push past 6-8psi on a stock shortblock. they've got much higher, but if youre wanting it to last a while id stay around 6.
intake, exhaust, fuel upgrades, tuning, obviously everything in a typical turbo kit, consider tranny and oil coolers etc. if you're gonna be hard on it.
Upgraded axle stubs, axles, driveshaft, mounts
trunion upgrade on the rockers, maybe go ls7 MAF, FAST intake, throttle body. VENTED PCV SYSTEM OR VACUUM PUMP
and typically you don't wanna push past 6-8psi on a stock shortblock. they've got much higher, but if youre wanting it to last a while id stay around 6.
06-26-2014, 07:41 AM
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I did two Precision 6265 billet turbos with a custom blower cam, 60 lb injectors, Walbro 255 lb/hr pump, and full 3" exhaust which put down 639 RWHP through a stalled A4 with just 8 PSI.
There's a bit of money involved in the above (over $12,000 between parts and fabrication), and it can be done for less but that means lesser quality fabrication and lesser quality parts... which gives you and end-result of an unreliable setup.
Then you'll have to consider upgrading the drive-line. A built automatic trans is a must if you have an A4 (you'll want a better converter too), as well as an auxiliary trans cooler and deeper fluid pan. If you have an M6 you'll need a stronger clutch, upgraded driveshaft, half-shafts, axle stubs, upgraded carrier, etc. if you want the car to last more than 2,000 miles. The M6 is much harder on the driveline than an A4. You might already have some of the above, but those are all things you are going to want to consider soon if you don't.
If you're close to stock, expect to spend between $10,000 - 20,000 (I think I might be just over $20k with the bare essentials and some gauges) or so between the turbos, intercooler, blow-off valve(s), wastegates, stainless steel piping, aluminum piping, T-bolt clamps, V-bands, silicone couplers, air filters for the turbos, exhaust components, fabrication, driveline upgrades, boost controller, fuel upgrades, upgraded valvetrain (valve springs, pushrods, retainers, etc), better tires (might need different rims for wider tires), possibly some suspension upgrades, battery relocation, possibly a cam, wideband controller, AFR gauge, other gauges (fuel pressure, boost, etc.) and anything else I'm forgetting. Keep in mind, if your rotating assembly is stock it's not going to last you forever at 600+ RWHP. That's another $5,000+ to do a proper, fully-forged engine when that time comes.
It's going to get very expensive very quickly, and with more costs to follow down the road as stuff you haven't upgraded yet starts breaking. Have deep pockets. Best of luck, and my suggestion is to do some homework on other peoples' setups on LS1GTO.com.
There's a bit of money involved in the above (over $12,000 between parts and fabrication), and it can be done for less but that means lesser quality fabrication and lesser quality parts... which gives you and end-result of an unreliable setup.
Then you'll have to consider upgrading the drive-line. A built automatic trans is a must if you have an A4 (you'll want a better converter too), as well as an auxiliary trans cooler and deeper fluid pan. If you have an M6 you'll need a stronger clutch, upgraded driveshaft, half-shafts, axle stubs, upgraded carrier, etc. if you want the car to last more than 2,000 miles. The M6 is much harder on the driveline than an A4. You might already have some of the above, but those are all things you are going to want to consider soon if you don't.
If you're close to stock, expect to spend between $10,000 - 20,000 (I think I might be just over $20k with the bare essentials and some gauges) or so between the turbos, intercooler, blow-off valve(s), wastegates, stainless steel piping, aluminum piping, T-bolt clamps, V-bands, silicone couplers, air filters for the turbos, exhaust components, fabrication, driveline upgrades, boost controller, fuel upgrades, upgraded valvetrain (valve springs, pushrods, retainers, etc), better tires (might need different rims for wider tires), possibly some suspension upgrades, battery relocation, possibly a cam, wideband controller, AFR gauge, other gauges (fuel pressure, boost, etc.) and anything else I'm forgetting. Keep in mind, if your rotating assembly is stock it's not going to last you forever at 600+ RWHP. That's another $5,000+ to do a proper, fully-forged engine when that time comes.
It's going to get very expensive very quickly, and with more costs to follow down the road as stuff you haven't upgraded yet starts breaking. Have deep pockets. Best of luck, and my suggestion is to do some homework on other peoples' setups on LS1GTO.com.
Last edited by MEAN GTO; 06-26-2014 at 07:46 AM.
07-05-2014, 06:14 PM
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Or:
You can do 500rwhp for under $4k on front single setup. Keeping it under 600hp and a lot of those drivetrains upgrades are not necessary on a street car. Are you planning to race it?
You can do 500rwhp for under $4k on front single setup. Keeping it under 600hp and a lot of those drivetrains upgrades are not necessary on a street car. Are you planning to race it?
