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i dont know. i think he must have been just still coasting threw the infeild from all the speed on the straight hahahahahaahaha. theres no way i should have been competitive. it was running square 315 NT01 if i recall. it belongs to a husband and wife instructor couple.
stuck in 5th? let someone else drive it? i dont know.
still put a smile on my face when the flag stands gave the race car the faster traffic/let pass flag for me.
Good news for you, NASA booked the track October 15/16. Go check out the CMC/AI/AIX cars there and decide which class you want to drag your knuckles in.
GTR was loud and quick coming out of the corners, but I was able to get by him in a lap.
Radical RXC
This was a husband and wife Pair of vipers. They did not have a good sunday.
This was the husbands car. Sunday morning he put it into the concrete wall around the T13 flag stand. crushed the whole side of the car in.
(before pic)
This was the wifes car
Sunday afternoon she backed into the wall between T3 and T4. HARD. I was on track at the time. we went red flag stop on track for a long time. was scary/creepy. she left in an ambulance on a stretcher with at least a broken arm.
my perents made the drive for the first time to watch me so that was really cool. some footage my dad took, on the front stretch, and the slowest T10 corner. long intro
Those look like ACR-X vipers. If so, they are lucky she didn't have more injuries. I had the displeasure of working on one recently, and it was the most unsafe car I have ever seen. I have no clue how any racing sanctioning body approved those things for competition.
I couldn't get the hang of all the lock to lock stuff, course just had no flow to it, so I wasn't super happy with my driving, but did well enough for 2nd place. Lost by .06 seconds. not bad I guess against a 800lb lighter S2000. great driver too.
Which rack do you have? I recently swapped from the standard 2.75 turn rack to a T1 rebuilt 2.25 turn rack and wow, what a difference! Had to relearn the car as the inputs were much snappier.
no idea. just bought the standard replacement. (they didn have one listed for HD suspension or f55 or something) didnt find out about the faster ratio rack until after id bought and installed.
well after taking a couple months off due to the heat, i headed back to the track.
but first had to tear out the trans. the last few races id been getting alot of noises from the trans. squealing when the clutch was out(engaged) and some other odd things going on.
my hunch was a slave/throwout bearing, but i ordered a new clutch and pilot bearing just in case.
got it pulled night before the event
and it turned out my hunch was right. the transmission is getting so hot racing, that it evaporated/melted all the grease out of the throw out bearing and started destroying itself. even melted the rubber seal(as seen in pic below). you can also see the black snoot and silver back plate have wear marks all over them and ground down. its only 8 months old. with that kinda heat im sure the return spring wasnt doing much either.
new throwout/slave fixed it right up. left the pilot and clutch alone.
off to the track! finally get to try out these slicks for the first time!
unfortunately in my second session on the warm up lap, my seat back broke (inner hinge)
swaping seats would have taken most of the day with the 1/2" tube seat mounts i made. so i opted for a quick fix. took a few sessions to get it just right but it worked. luckily i never got caught. seat was actually stiffer than it was before the break. was kinda nice.
got a bit lazy on the video this time. just a few warm up laps getting used to the slicks. i was VERY careful on them and didnt trust them at all. been warned too much about how they are ice when cold, and when they do let go its instant with no warning. heres a few warm up laps that morning, no one watches these anyway
sadly my weekend came to a quick end just before lunch on the second day. was checking hot psi and noticed the passenger front was toast. (ccw track) lasted ONE day, about 3 hours of track time, and ended my weekend. i had camber set pretty well with my 200TW tires, but obviously the slicks needed ALOT more.
a very fast and very expensive lesson.
and heres the crappy part, they didnt even make me faster, not even a little. in fact i was nearly 3 seconds slower than my personal fastest lap there. i was running 2:02 to 2:04 as my fastest lap per session on the slicks. typically on the 200TW i run 2:00 to 2:02 for fastest lap, with my all time fastest laps being in the 1:59s. really a bummer and big disappointment with the slicks.
Pretty sure I mentioned they were a meh tire based on what I've heard from most that run them. That said, they do require you to drive the car differently and set it up differently for those precious few seconds to drop off of your lap times. Were they cycled before you beat on them? Most if not all tires will require a cycle before hard use. I don't bother, but then again I don't have tires licking themselves clean in less than a day. For reference, my 3290# post-race weight 259whp Camaro with 900# front and 225/250# rear springs runs -2.5* camber up front for good tire temps. CMC cars at TWS appear to be running 1:56-1:58 lap times for reference. With decent tires, you should be able to handily beat those times as the cars are very limited with mods. It wouldn't be fair to compare to an AI car as they have aero and a lot more liberty with mods though they do get an extra 100ish whp. Just trying to give you something more than yourself to gauge your times by as winning HPDE doesn't always mean much in the real racing world. I see it in almost every new guy that shows up with an R badge. Are you looking to move up or just stay HPDE? If the latter, then there's not much of a logical reason to run R comps on a dual use car. Then again, there's nothing logical about this sport.
^^^^ I thought he's running maxed out stock camber which should be just over 1 degree?
That's what most people, including myself, and I've never seen that before.
You can't even run a 200 tread street tire with -1 degree without killing the outer edge. I think you should be able to get -1.5 to -1.8 with the stock stuff.
I'd never attempt to run a slick without slotting the lower control arm hole to get at minimum -2-5. I could get -3.0 in my car with extending the factory slot.
You can't even run a 200 tread street tire with -1 degree without killing the outer edge. I think you should be able to get -1.5 to -1.8 with the stock stuff.
I'd never attempt to run a slick without slotting the lower control arm hole to get at minimum -2-5. I could get -3.0 in my car with extending the factory slot.
I'm pretty sure it's closer to 1...I'll dig up my specs. I know that there was a lot of variance between cars though.
So I know I'm like 1.2 camber and I did 3 track days at CMP on the same old track tires. You saw the videos, all right hand turns. Super hard on the left front. And I was driving like I had a race team owner looking for a driver watching me. The tires cycled out before I saw any chord. Something is up with Stang Killa's alignment, pressures, or wheel/tire choice. You saw the video, he wasn't even driving that hard.
Pretty sure I mentioned they were a meh tire based on what I've heard from most that run them. That said, they do require you to drive the car differently and set it up differently for those precious few seconds to drop off of your lap times. Were they cycled before you beat on them? Most if not all tires will require a cycle before hard use. I don't bother, but then again I don't have tires licking themselves clean in less than a day. For reference, my 3290# post-race weight 259whp Camaro with 900# front and 225/250# rear springs runs -2.5* camber up front for good tire temps. CMC cars at TWS appear to be running 1:56-1:58 lap times for reference. With decent tires, you should be able to handily beat those times as the cars are very limited with mods. It wouldn't be fair to compare to an AI car as they have aero and a lot more liberty with mods though they do get an extra 100ish whp. Just trying to give you something more than yourself to gauge your times by as winning HPDE doesn't always mean much in the real racing world. I see it in almost every new guy that shows up with an R badge. Are you looking to move up or just stay HPDE? If the latter, then there's not much of a logical reason to run R comps on a dual use car. Then again, there's nothing logical about this sport.
yes they were cycled. i do agree HPDE and racing is totally different. i do LOVE racing, and tend to be MUCH faster when following/catching someone, but to answer your question no i never plan to transition to racing. i dont want to loose the fun factor. nore deal with the costs needed to be competitive.
car is not dual use. only leaves the garage for track events.
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
You can't even run a 200 tread street tire with -1 degree without killing the outer edge. I think you should be able to get -1.5 to -1.8 with the stock stuff.
I'd never attempt to run a slick without slotting the lower control arm hole to get at minimum -2-5. I could get -3.0 in my car with extending the factory slot.
im currently running -1.2, thinking of going up to 1.5 or 1.8 and back to 200tw tires.
tires were set to 31F/30R hot as suggested to me. i would be curious if they would have laster longer with more pressure (more sidewall support)of course they still need more/max camber.
i will say i didnt experience any of the warnings. they were not ice when cold. however i did slowly work up my comfort level with them. as you can see from the vid in the morning im going quite easy on them. however later in afternoon i started going for it, trying to set a new personal best.
i did surpass the limits of the rears a few times, but not the fronts.
Dude you've got the racing vs HPDE thing totally backwards! Theres a reason there isn't just one class of racing, because the dude with the fattest wallet would only win! Pick the class that works for your budget and go racing for way less than you are spending for HPDE's! My car is still street legal, because I enjoy driving it on the road. I'm also planning my mods for TT3, which limits me to about 340 rwhp because of my weight. And in really enjoying the challenge of being fast with less hp.
You're also right about the crap about slicks being ice when cold. There is a big difference between cold grip and hot grip, but not ice.
06-08-2016, 08:28 AM
