Extra Money What Should I Do? (94 Z28)
#1
Extra Money What Should I Do? (94 Z28)
i have some extra money
i know im getting new tires 295-305
im getting long tube headers
and im wanted to do x pipe with two slp mufflers
what else can i do to get power out of my car without changing the heads or cam?
and how much hp to the wheels would i get with full bolt ons
i know im getting new tires 295-305
im getting long tube headers
and im wanted to do x pipe with two slp mufflers
what else can i do to get power out of my car without changing the heads or cam?
and how much hp to the wheels would i get with full bolt ons
#3
Originally Posted by LoStOCeAnZ63
i was looking at the summit mag. and i saw that it says a aftermartket airflow sensor will give you 10-15hp at the wheels that cant be true is it?
#4
Originally Posted by LoStOCeAnZ63
i have some extra money
i know im getting new tires 295-305
im getting long tube headers
and im wanted to do x pipe with two slp mufflers
what else can i do to get power out of my car without changing the heads or cam?
and how much hp to the wheels would i get with full bolt ons
i know im getting new tires 295-305
im getting long tube headers
and im wanted to do x pipe with two slp mufflers
what else can i do to get power out of my car without changing the heads or cam?
and how much hp to the wheels would i get with full bolt ons
Get rid of the Hypertech, get a tune from like pcmforless.com, also maybe do 1.6 ratio rockers.
#6
Ever dyno the car before, whats your baseline its hard to guess if you dont have one, you will gain either way. As for the LS1 intake, you already have a CAI, I would save that money for a cam. I again wouldnt do a X pipe.
Buy a "Y" pipe thats for the headers, its a Hooker Y pipe you buy from thunderracing if I recall.
Buy a "Y" pipe thats for the headers, its a Hooker Y pipe you buy from thunderracing if I recall.
#7
The LS1 intake, if I am not mistaken with your hood will take alot of fitting. Unless something has changed in the 500+ threads that has come out since Merv did this... if so would some one fill me in.
pcmforless.com FTW. Alvin is a stand up guy and will get the car right.
-bryan
pcmforless.com FTW. Alvin is a stand up guy and will get the car right.
-bryan
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#8
im getting the cowl ss scoop hood i hear with that hood it will fit with the ls1 intake? does anyone have a link on how that whole intake works anyway?
and why is it better to have a y pipe then a x pipe i want more power
i have enough to put a cam in my car now but is it really worth doing? beuase ive seen people tlaking about 320RWHP with full bolt ons and tune ect. and then people with a cam they were saying 340RWHP with the hot cam
i dont wanna pay that much money for 20-30hp
the reason i say hot cam is becuase i would need a cam that i can drive on everyday
ive had my car since august and ive put 20K miles on it i do alot of freeway driving
and why is it better to have a y pipe then a x pipe i want more power
i have enough to put a cam in my car now but is it really worth doing? beuase ive seen people tlaking about 320RWHP with full bolt ons and tune ect. and then people with a cam they were saying 340RWHP with the hot cam
i dont wanna pay that much money for 20-30hp
the reason i say hot cam is becuase i would need a cam that i can drive on everyday
ive had my car since august and ive put 20K miles on it i do alot of freeway driving
#11
I'm going to give you the best advice ever for your extra money. Save it. Tires, ok everyone needs new tires sometime do this when your old ones get worn out. Long tube headers, sure why not everyone needs a little money spent on themselves sometimes. True duals custom made by an exhaust shop, thats just money wasted right there. Unless your car is already cammed you wont see much gain by going to true duals. The only reason I will be doing true duals myself someday is because I will be building them myself instead of paying someone else to.
#12
The best bang for the buck is nitrous. Up front its cheap and easy and will give you much more power with the ease of just changing out jets for the lower hp shots. Also for the same money your spending on them headers you could go out and buy a decent nitrous kit and really get that car moving. You already have a catback and high flow cat so your not going to see to much of a notice able gain from true duals over what you have. Then all you need after that is some mt drag radials to get it to hook.
#15
Originally Posted by LoStOCeAnZ63
gee thanks for all the help
Everyone is giving you straight up replies with answers that make sense and you're mocking them? Obviously you're not slick enough to try a stab at that amazing search function that is readily available at the top of the page --
You want to go fast, but you don't want to spend money. You need to pick one. Speed is not cheap. You want more power, but don't want to do anything to really fix the two parts that can give you the biggest gains (heads and cam). What do you want people to tell you?
I don't know about people getting 320 rwhp with a full bolt-on car, but I'm going to assume it is through a 6 spd. My car put down 332/345 through an unlocked 3000 stall, which will give you more drivetrain loss than a normal automatic, and significantly more than a six speed.
You're obviously balling on a budget, the LT4 Hotcam Kit is not a bad route to go -- with the cam kit itself, you'll need all the necessary gaskets that go with a typical cam swap. The cost of a shop to do it, really depends on the going labor rate for a shop in your area. I'd say you're looking at atleast $400 to do the cam swap, but I am thinking it will be significantly more. A cam swap is not going to be very cheap because you won't be doing the work yourself, which I'll assume the same for the headers.
If you want to go fast for super cheap -- do what he said. Throw a bottle on it and spray it until it pops. "The LT1 that Could" has his car trapping 120 on a 150 shot with a bolt-on car. It is do-able, just depends what route you need to go. You can run nitrous on the car just as safely as you can cam it -- and you'll probably be able to install it yourself. On the flip side, if anything is done wrong you will have to start pricing out a new shortblock. You have the possibility of spinning a bearing. If you don't get the proper safety parts with your nitrous kit, you'll blow **** up.
So my advice to you, Mr. Pinched for cash -- don't do anything. Get the full exhaust and a dyno tune, and just enjoy the car. If you're that hardcore about pricing stuff out so meticulously, then you probably won't have the money to fix anything if it breaks big time. Like I said before, speed isn't cheap.
The old saying goes "Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick Two."
I post that all the time, but I don't think I can say it enough. Now do me a favor, don't take what I've said personally, I'm just being honest with you. If you want to be constructive and further discuss things, I'd be more than happy to help you out.
#16
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
gee thanks for asking the same stupid questions that have been asked a million times
Everyone is giving you straight up replies with answers that make sense and you're mocking them? Obviously you're not slick enough to try a stab at that amazing search function that is readily available at the top of the page --
You want to go fast, but you don't want to spend money. You need to pick one. Speed is not cheap. You want more power, but don't want to do anything to really fix the two parts that can give you the biggest gains (heads and cam). What do you want people to tell you?
I don't know about people getting 320 rwhp with a full bolt-on car, but I'm going to assume it is through a 6 spd. My car put down 332/345 through an unlocked 3000 stall, which will give you more drivetrain loss than a normal automatic, and significantly more than a six speed.
You're obviously balling on a budget, the LT4 Hotcam Kit is not a bad route to go -- with the cam kit itself, you'll need all the necessary gaskets that go with a typical cam swap. The cost of a shop to do it, really depends on the going labor rate for a shop in your area. I'd say you're looking at atleast $400 to do the cam swap, but I am thinking it will be significantly more. A cam swap is not going to be very cheap because you won't be doing the work yourself, which I'll assume the same for the headers.
If you want to go fast for super cheap -- do what he said. Throw a bottle on it and spray it until it pops. "The LT1 that Could" has his car trapping 120 on a 150 shot with a bolt-on car. It is do-able, just depends what route you need to go. You can run nitrous on the car just as safely as you can cam it -- and you'll probably be able to install it yourself. On the flip side, if anything is done wrong you will have to start pricing out a new shortblock. You have the possibility of spinning a bearing. If you don't get the proper safety parts with your nitrous kit, you'll blow **** up.
So my advice to you, Mr. Pinched for cash -- don't do anything. Get the full exhaust and a dyno tune, and just enjoy the car. If you're that hardcore about pricing stuff out so meticulously, then you probably won't have the money to fix anything if it breaks big time. Like I said before, speed isn't cheap.
The old saying goes "Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick Two."
I post that all the time, but I don't think I can say it enough. Now do me a favor, don't take what I've said personally, I'm just being honest with you. If you want to be constructive and further discuss things, I'd be more than happy to help you out.
Everyone is giving you straight up replies with answers that make sense and you're mocking them? Obviously you're not slick enough to try a stab at that amazing search function that is readily available at the top of the page --
You want to go fast, but you don't want to spend money. You need to pick one. Speed is not cheap. You want more power, but don't want to do anything to really fix the two parts that can give you the biggest gains (heads and cam). What do you want people to tell you?
I don't know about people getting 320 rwhp with a full bolt-on car, but I'm going to assume it is through a 6 spd. My car put down 332/345 through an unlocked 3000 stall, which will give you more drivetrain loss than a normal automatic, and significantly more than a six speed.
You're obviously balling on a budget, the LT4 Hotcam Kit is not a bad route to go -- with the cam kit itself, you'll need all the necessary gaskets that go with a typical cam swap. The cost of a shop to do it, really depends on the going labor rate for a shop in your area. I'd say you're looking at atleast $400 to do the cam swap, but I am thinking it will be significantly more. A cam swap is not going to be very cheap because you won't be doing the work yourself, which I'll assume the same for the headers.
If you want to go fast for super cheap -- do what he said. Throw a bottle on it and spray it until it pops. "The LT1 that Could" has his car trapping 120 on a 150 shot with a bolt-on car. It is do-able, just depends what route you need to go. You can run nitrous on the car just as safely as you can cam it -- and you'll probably be able to install it yourself. On the flip side, if anything is done wrong you will have to start pricing out a new shortblock. You have the possibility of spinning a bearing. If you don't get the proper safety parts with your nitrous kit, you'll blow **** up.
So my advice to you, Mr. Pinched for cash -- don't do anything. Get the full exhaust and a dyno tune, and just enjoy the car. If you're that hardcore about pricing stuff out so meticulously, then you probably won't have the money to fix anything if it breaks big time. Like I said before, speed isn't cheap.
The old saying goes "Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick Two."
I post that all the time, but I don't think I can say it enough. Now do me a favor, don't take what I've said personally, I'm just being honest with you. If you want to be constructive and further discuss things, I'd be more than happy to help you out.
+1, truth
-To LostOceanz63-
And do you really want to sink tons of money into mods when you won't get it back?