Has anyone been able to fix the RAP problem?
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Staging Lane
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Has anyone been able to fix the RAP problem?
Lots of threads about people having problems but I have only seen one that said a new BCM fixed it. I know people have had to fix this problem before because its so dam annoying.
If all of your grounds are good, then I take it it has to be the BCM that needs to be replaced.
Also the BCM is behind the glove box to the left correct? I read that it is grounded on the drivers side kind of below the A pillar, is this also correct?
Any help on fixing this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same symptoms as everyone else, radio and windows dont work, sometimes hitting the dash helps, the heat makes it worse. Just installed a new head unit and it is still doing it.
-Jason
If all of your grounds are good, then I take it it has to be the BCM that needs to be replaced.
Also the BCM is behind the glove box to the left correct? I read that it is grounded on the drivers side kind of below the A pillar, is this also correct?
Any help on fixing this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same symptoms as everyone else, radio and windows dont work, sometimes hitting the dash helps, the heat makes it worse. Just installed a new head unit and it is still doing it.
-Jason
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The RAP system is entirely controlled by the body control module (BCM) which is a black box about the size of a paperback book mounted under the dash on the right side behind the glovebox. It has three connectors - 6-pin green, 6-pin black, and 32-pin blue.
The most common problems with the RAP system are not caused by the BCM but by the door switches. One or both of the door switches might not be operating correctly causing the BCM to see the door as either always open (RAP won't function) or always closed (RAP won't shut off). You can test this with a test light or multimeter. Unplug the blue connector and test for ground on the gray with black wire only when driver's door is open. Also test for ground on the black with white wire only when the passenger's door is open (there are several black with white wires in that connector - you want the one next to the gray with black wire you just tested).
If either one shows ground with the door closed or no ground with it open then the door switch is the problem. The door switches are mounted to the door latch assembly rather than being a separate pin switch like in older cars. Sometimes a little adjustment is all that's needed (a slight amount of adjustment is available by loosening the latch bolts). Sometimes they need cleaning to get rid of grime that might prevent proper operation (a good shot of spray contact cleaner should do it). Otherwise, the switch should be replaced.
The most common problems with the RAP system are not caused by the BCM but by the door switches. One or both of the door switches might not be operating correctly causing the BCM to see the door as either always open (RAP won't function) or always closed (RAP won't shut off). You can test this with a test light or multimeter. Unplug the blue connector and test for ground on the gray with black wire only when driver's door is open. Also test for ground on the black with white wire only when the passenger's door is open (there are several black with white wires in that connector - you want the one next to the gray with black wire you just tested).
If either one shows ground with the door closed or no ground with it open then the door switch is the problem. The door switches are mounted to the door latch assembly rather than being a separate pin switch like in older cars. Sometimes a little adjustment is all that's needed (a slight amount of adjustment is available by loosening the latch bolts). Sometimes they need cleaning to get rid of grime that might prevent proper operation (a good shot of spray contact cleaner should do it). Otherwise, the switch should be replaced.
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#9
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For my car (97 TA) it ended up being a bad BCM. I was hoping it would be something more simple, like a door switch. I ran through the entire diagnostic procedure in the service manual, and concluded the BCM needed replacing. Replacing it did the trick.
-Rich
-Rich
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Update
Turns out wire was lose going into BCM.
Zip tied my wires together and braced against something so they wont move (found which direction would let the radio work and braced it so it would stay there). Have not had a problem for the past week.
Think this could be the problem most people have with the RAP turning their radios off and windows not working. Would give this a shot before you replace the BCM. Peopl that replaced the BCM may just of fixed the lose wire and nothing may have been wrong with their BCM.
Thread showing what wire was loose, https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/780415-what-these-wire-coming-bcm.html
Was the big blue wire on the black connector coming from the BCM
Turns out wire was lose going into BCM.
Zip tied my wires together and braced against something so they wont move (found which direction would let the radio work and braced it so it would stay there). Have not had a problem for the past week.
Think this could be the problem most people have with the RAP turning their radios off and windows not working. Would give this a shot before you replace the BCM. Peopl that replaced the BCM may just of fixed the lose wire and nothing may have been wrong with their BCM.
Thread showing what wire was loose, https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/780415-what-these-wire-coming-bcm.html
Was the big blue wire on the black connector coming from the BCM
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Yup, I can't preach enough to follow the diagnostic procedure in the factory service manual before replacing the BCM. In my case, it ended up being a bad BCM, but not in all cases.
-Rich
-Rich
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I have the same problem and several months back went to a GM dealership to get wiring diagrams for the RAP and BCM to find the ground locations. I made a post about them here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/627914-no-window-controls-radio-while-driving-problems-rap-system-might-help.html
Sadly that wasn't the problem, maybe it will help some of yall though. Another weird problem Im guessing is tied into the BCM. Occasionally when I put it in AC C or turn the key back, my seatbelt light flashes a random intervals and chimes sometimes making a ticking noise(usually only when the car is wet).
Also where can I get the service manual? GM dealership? Any place for cheap? Id like to go through the diagnostics before blowing $200+ like you said.
Sadly that wasn't the problem, maybe it will help some of yall though. Another weird problem Im guessing is tied into the BCM. Occasionally when I put it in AC C or turn the key back, my seatbelt light flashes a random intervals and chimes sometimes making a ticking noise(usually only when the car is wet).
Also where can I get the service manual? GM dealership? Any place for cheap? Id like to go through the diagnostics before blowing $200+ like you said.
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GM used to issue service manuals on CD-ROM that would cover all models for several years. Now they have all the manuals online for their dealerships. I got the CD set that covers 97-03 from eBay a few years ago. Unfortunately, it appears that GM has invoked the Digital Millenium Copyright Act to prevent the sale of those CD sets because I haven't seen any for sale in quite some time.
Helm Inc. is the official publisher of GM manuals. They publish hard-copy manuals for all models and CD versions for some newer models. They have only a hard-copy service manual for Camaro and Firebird and it costs $135. You can order from www.helminc.com.
A less detailed repair manual that costs a lot less is published by Haynes and is available from any book store.
Helm Inc. is the official publisher of GM manuals. They publish hard-copy manuals for all models and CD versions for some newer models. They have only a hard-copy service manual for Camaro and Firebird and it costs $135. You can order from www.helminc.com.
A less detailed repair manual that costs a lot less is published by Haynes and is available from any book store.