where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire
#1
where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire
where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire, I crawled under the car however I can't see it.
I'm trying to do the big3, have only completed the big1 so far, would like to complete the big 2. then maybe the big3.
image would be great.
Thanks
I'm trying to do the big3, have only completed the big1 so far, would like to complete the big 2. then maybe the big3.
image would be great.
Thanks
#6
TECH Addict
Trending Topics
#8
ground
I've sean this wire years ago under the car I believe it was near the middle of engine and attached to frame.
this blows my mine I can't see it now.
I'll look again under ABS and around alt. either way I'll add a #4 guage somewhere.
I had the alternator checked it's fine.
?. when installed my audio sys. I just crammed the power lead inbetween the battery an ternimal the ternimal was actually cocked could this be the reason I have weak chargeing w/ AC on?
or is both the alt. and AC straining because of the 100 degree outside temps right now?
Thanks Guy's for advice
this blows my mine I can't see it now.
I'll look again under ABS and around alt. either way I'll add a #4 guage somewhere.
I had the alternator checked it's fine.
?. when installed my audio sys. I just crammed the power lead inbetween the battery an ternimal the ternimal was actually cocked could this be the reason I have weak chargeing w/ AC on?
or is both the alt. and AC straining because of the 100 degree outside temps right now?
Thanks Guy's for advice
#9
get a sideterminal battery post adatper, dont just cram it in there thats half ur problem.
ur system is in no way too big for the OEM charging system, with big3 you should have no issues
Hell on my 97 cavalier which had a 90amp alternator if i recall i was running 1200wrms substage, and 100x2rms for my speakers on an autozone battery with big3 and i had some dimming yes but no issues at all. with full AC on max and headlights on and rear defroster at idle with system playing full tilt it would dip into the mid 11s
ur system is in no way too big for the OEM charging system, with big3 you should have no issues
Hell on my 97 cavalier which had a 90amp alternator if i recall i was running 1200wrms substage, and 100x2rms for my speakers on an autozone battery with big3 and i had some dimming yes but no issues at all. with full AC on max and headlights on and rear defroster at idle with system playing full tilt it would dip into the mid 11s
#10
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Really, What a Real Threat
I feel so bad for him, to lose such opinioned and biased information. What will he ever do?????
Ed
Did you ever think he might want to keep a clean stock look!!!
PM me if you still need the info and I will look it up in my Helms and give you the factory ground drawings.
Ed
#12
you're a zero
I mean isn't this a forum for sharing infor?
or should this wire location be automatically be known, if you do'nt know then don't ask ls1tech they will think you should know and I'm not responding look at 90+ .
if you don't know where this braided wire is located suggest more than add another, like here's an alternative mount it here.
tomuch rice is getting credit for a sticky what a load of crape with images removed.
pentavolvo I've added the battery adaptor no change on chargeing, thanks for the feedback.
I'm currently changing trans. fuild and am still looking for this hidden wire you know the big3 upgrade what a joke.
Ed I'll continue to look it just chaps my *** I can't see this darn wire.
I just want my AC on w/ out dischargeing the battery.
Thanks Guy's for surport.
Last edited by badmfkr; 06-24-2009 at 03:42 PM.
#13
TECH Addict
Okay, if you want to know where to add it, go from one of the alternator bolts to a clean, heavy duty spot on the chassis (i.e. not a piece of metal that's spot welded on)
#15
found the braided wire
well I found the braided ground wire it was crammed inbetween a heat shield.
I could'nt see where it was attached to the atl. so I removed a atl. mount bolt and connected it there then connected to where the braided wire was right on top of it then covered both w/ the heat sheild.
cruised around a little w/ AC on, the addition wire has helped a little Voltage still drops to around 11.5V however this was without radio (left radio at the house.)
funny thing when I turn on the headlights w/ AC on it jumps to well over straight up 13V appears to be 14.5V
will test w/ radio Friday or Saturday.
I've attached images for the next poor slob who can't find this wire mine was hiding.
Thanks Guys for the help
I could'nt see where it was attached to the atl. so I removed a atl. mount bolt and connected it there then connected to where the braided wire was right on top of it then covered both w/ the heat sheild.
cruised around a little w/ AC on, the addition wire has helped a little Voltage still drops to around 11.5V however this was without radio (left radio at the house.)
funny thing when I turn on the headlights w/ AC on it jumps to well over straight up 13V appears to be 14.5V
will test w/ radio Friday or Saturday.
I've attached images for the next poor slob who can't find this wire mine was hiding.
Thanks Guys for the help
#19
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Voltage Probs.
0 gauge isn't necessary for that application, He's not even running an aftermarket HA Alt., in my opinion. It is running only 2 ft at the most. See numbers below, what could be gained by 0 ga.??
I'm thinking you got something loading down the circuit or the voltmeter circuit when the A/C is on or you have a bad diode in your half bridge rectifer.
I bet on the diode, I've seen high voltages (14.4vdc) during low loads and then it drops off on higher loads but inside capacity of your 105 amp stock alt.
Load Carrying Capacities (see table below)
The following chart is a guideline of ampacity or copper wire current carrying capacity following the Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge. As you might guess, the rated ampacities are just a rule of thumb. In careful engineering the voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature should all be taken into account. The Maximum Amps for Power Transmission uses the 700 circular mils per amp rule, which is very very conservative. The Maximum Amps for Chassis Wiring is also a conservative rating, but is meant for wiring in air, and not in a bundle. For short lengths of wire, such as is used in battery packs you should trade off the resistance and load with size, weight, and flexibility.
AWG gauge 0
Conductor,Diameter Inches " 0.3249
amps for chassis wiring 245 amps
Maximum amps for power transmission 150 amps
Voltage Drop for 2' .081 volts
I'm thinking you got something loading down the circuit or the voltmeter circuit when the A/C is on or you have a bad diode in your half bridge rectifer.
I bet on the diode, I've seen high voltages (14.4vdc) during low loads and then it drops off on higher loads but inside capacity of your 105 amp stock alt.
Load Carrying Capacities (see table below)
The following chart is a guideline of ampacity or copper wire current carrying capacity following the Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge. As you might guess, the rated ampacities are just a rule of thumb. In careful engineering the voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature should all be taken into account. The Maximum Amps for Power Transmission uses the 700 circular mils per amp rule, which is very very conservative. The Maximum Amps for Chassis Wiring is also a conservative rating, but is meant for wiring in air, and not in a bundle. For short lengths of wire, such as is used in battery packs you should trade off the resistance and load with size, weight, and flexibility.
AWG gauge 0
Conductor,Diameter Inches " 0.3249
amps for chassis wiring 245 amps
Maximum amps for power transmission 150 amps
Voltage Drop for 2' .081 volts
#20
ruined the AC
I'm thinking I may have ruined my AC sys. a few years ago during the cam swap I removed the AC coolant lines it took me 4 days to complete the swap because it rained one day anyway the AC coolant lines wheren't capped
(I did'nt know to do this then)
off I was told by a expert mechanic that moisture entered into the AC line and most likely has turned to ice christels which will first ruin the dryer then the compressor.
did'nt drive it much after swap and had the AC coolant replaced, Dude did'nt even charge me I believe it was second hand recycled coolant.
?so if the moisture actually did ruin my AC like a cloged oraface or something would this put an extreme drain on the charging sys? AC do'es blow cool not cold air. it's never blow cold since I've owned the car in 01.
BTW 2 of the big 3 has improved the situation but it's not a total solution yet will attemp the 3rd portion POS battery to the alt. then atl to fuse box.
would also like to know more about the half bridge rectifer like can the diod be desoilder and and tested then replaced.
Thanks for helpfull surport.
(I did'nt know to do this then)
off I was told by a expert mechanic that moisture entered into the AC line and most likely has turned to ice christels which will first ruin the dryer then the compressor.
did'nt drive it much after swap and had the AC coolant replaced, Dude did'nt even charge me I believe it was second hand recycled coolant.
?so if the moisture actually did ruin my AC like a cloged oraface or something would this put an extreme drain on the charging sys? AC do'es blow cool not cold air. it's never blow cold since I've owned the car in 01.
BTW 2 of the big 3 has improved the situation but it's not a total solution yet will attemp the 3rd portion POS battery to the alt. then atl to fuse box.
would also like to know more about the half bridge rectifer like can the diod be desoilder and and tested then replaced.
Thanks for helpfull surport.
Last edited by badmfkr; 06-27-2009 at 05:01 PM.