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where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire

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Old 06-22-2009, 04:51 PM
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Default where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire

where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire, I crawled under the car however I can't see it.

I'm trying to do the big3, have only completed the big1 so far, would like to complete the big 2. then maybe the big3.

image would be great.

Thanks
Old 06-22-2009, 05:04 PM
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Why does it matter? Just add another wire. You don't have to remove the stock one.
Old 06-22-2009, 05:40 PM
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What Dragon said, just add one!
Old 06-22-2009, 08:57 PM
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Default engine to chasssis ground wire

Originally Posted by dragonrage
Why does it matter? Just add another wire. You don't have to remove the stock one.
please just say where the orginal wire exactly is.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
please just say where the orginal wire exactly is.
I believe there is a few. Look inder where the ABS unit is.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
please just say where the orginal wire exactly is.
You have posted way too much about this. Try listening to our advice. You won't be getting any more from me otherwise. More ground is never a bad thing.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire, I crawled under the car however I can't see it.

I'm trying to do the big3, have only completed the big1 so far, would like to complete the big 2. then maybe the big3.

image would be great.

Thanks
its a silver wire runing behind the alternator from the engine to the chassis.
Old 06-23-2009, 06:34 AM
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Default ground

I've sean this wire years ago under the car I believe it was near the middle of engine and attached to frame.


this blows my mine I can't see it now.

I'll look again under ABS and around alt. either way I'll add a #4 guage somewhere.

I had the alternator checked it's fine.

?. when installed my audio sys. I just crammed the power lead inbetween the battery an ternimal the ternimal was actually cocked could this be the reason I have weak chargeing w/ AC on?

or is both the alt. and AC straining because of the 100 degree outside temps right now?

Thanks Guy's for advice
Old 06-23-2009, 03:29 PM
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get a sideterminal battery post adatper, dont just cram it in there thats half ur problem.

ur system is in no way too big for the OEM charging system, with big3 you should have no issues

Hell on my 97 cavalier which had a 90amp alternator if i recall i was running 1200wrms substage, and 100x2rms for my speakers on an autozone battery with big3 and i had some dimming yes but no issues at all. with full AC on max and headlights on and rear defroster at idle with system playing full tilt it would dip into the mid 11s
Old 06-24-2009, 05:54 AM
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Default Really, What a Real Threat

Originally Posted by dragonrage
You have posted way too much about this. Try listening to our advice. You won't be getting any more from me otherwise. More ground is never a bad thing.
Your such a DICK!

I feel so bad for him, to lose such opinioned and biased information. What will he ever do?????

Ed

Did you ever think he might want to keep a clean stock look!!!

PM me if you still need the info and I will look it up in my Helms and give you the factory ground drawings.
Ed
Old 06-24-2009, 12:55 PM
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Please keep things polite, before this snowballs.
Old 06-24-2009, 03:23 PM
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Default you're a zero

Originally Posted by dragonrage
Why does it matter? Just add another wire. You don't have to remove the stock one.
look dude why are you not like the 90+ some odd viewers and say zero. maybe you don't know.

I mean isn't this a forum for sharing infor?

or should this wire location be automatically be known, if you do'nt know then don't ask ls1tech they will think you should know and I'm not responding look at 90+ .

if you don't know where this braided wire is located suggest more than add another, like here's an alternative mount it here.

tomuch rice is getting credit for a sticky what a load of crape with images removed.

pentavolvo I've added the battery adaptor no change on chargeing, thanks for the feedback.

I'm currently changing trans. fuild and am still looking for this hidden wire you know the big3 upgrade what a joke.

Ed I'll continue to look it just chaps my *** I can't see this darn wire.

I just want my AC on w/ out dischargeing the battery.

Thanks Guy's for surport.

Last edited by badmfkr; 06-24-2009 at 03:42 PM.
Old 06-24-2009, 04:46 PM
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Okay, if you want to know where to add it, go from one of the alternator bolts to a clean, heavy duty spot on the chassis (i.e. not a piece of metal that's spot welded on)
Old 06-24-2009, 11:23 PM
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Default Here are the pictures

You can see is these illustrations where the factory ground is.
Ed
Attached Thumbnails where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-dsc01738.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-dsc01737.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-dsc01736.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-dsc01735.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-dsc01734.jpg  

Old 06-25-2009, 10:11 AM
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Default found the braided wire

Originally Posted by BRD-PREY
You can see is these illustrations where the factory ground is.
Ed
well I found the braided ground wire it was crammed inbetween a heat shield.

I could'nt see where it was attached to the atl. so I removed a atl. mount bolt and connected it there then connected to where the braided wire was right on top of it then covered both w/ the heat sheild.

cruised around a little w/ AC on, the addition wire has helped a little Voltage still drops to around 11.5V however this was without radio (left radio at the house.)

funny thing when I turn on the headlights w/ AC on it jumps to well over straight up 13V appears to be 14.5V

will test w/ radio Friday or Saturday.


I've attached images for the next poor slob who can't find this wire mine was hiding.
Thanks Guys for the help
Old 06-25-2009, 10:14 AM
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Default images.

images
Attached Thumbnails where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-big1.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-big2.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-big3.jpg   where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire-big4.jpg  
Old 06-25-2009, 11:46 AM
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i would hook up an actual digital voltmeter to see where you are sitting, the oem guage isnt known to be the best
Old 06-25-2009, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
images
looking good althou i would rec a 0awg.
Old 06-25-2009, 02:37 PM
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Default Voltage Probs.

0 gauge isn't necessary for that application, He's not even running an aftermarket HA Alt., in my opinion. It is running only 2 ft at the most. See numbers below, what could be gained by 0 ga.??
I'm thinking you got something loading down the circuit or the voltmeter circuit when the A/C is on or you have a bad diode in your half bridge rectifer.
I bet on the diode, I've seen high voltages (14.4vdc) during low loads and then it drops off on higher loads but inside capacity of your 105 amp stock alt.

Load Carrying Capacities (see table below)

The following chart is a guideline of ampacity or copper wire current carrying capacity following the Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge. As you might guess, the rated ampacities are just a rule of thumb. In careful engineering the voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature should all be taken into account. The Maximum Amps for Power Transmission uses the 700 circular mils per amp rule, which is very very conservative. The Maximum Amps for Chassis Wiring is also a conservative rating, but is meant for wiring in air, and not in a bundle. For short lengths of wire, such as is used in battery packs you should trade off the resistance and load with size, weight, and flexibility.

AWG gauge 0
Conductor,Diameter Inches " 0.3249
amps for chassis wiring 245 amps
Maximum amps for power transmission 150 amps
Voltage Drop for 2' .081 volts
Old 06-27-2009, 04:38 PM
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Default ruined the AC

I'm thinking I may have ruined my AC sys. a few years ago during the cam swap I removed the AC coolant lines it took me 4 days to complete the swap because it rained one day anyway the AC coolant lines wheren't capped
(I did'nt know to do this then)
off I was told by a expert mechanic that moisture entered into the AC line and most likely has turned to ice christels which will first ruin the dryer then the compressor.

did'nt drive it much after swap and had the AC coolant replaced, Dude did'nt even charge me I believe it was second hand recycled coolant.

?so if the moisture actually did ruin my AC like a cloged oraface or something would this put an extreme drain on the charging sys? AC do'es blow cool not cold air. it's never blow cold since I've owned the car in 01.

BTW 2 of the big 3 has improved the situation but it's not a total solution yet will attemp the 3rd portion POS battery to the alt. then atl to fuse box.

would also like to know more about the half bridge rectifer like can the diod be desoilder and and tested then replaced.

Thanks for helpfull surport.

Last edited by badmfkr; 06-27-2009 at 05:01 PM.



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