TheHeadFL

Several years ago I had installed a completely aftermarket stereo system in my T/A. I built an amp rack and bought a stealth box to hold a 10" sub.

I was running:

Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5" components up front...



Infinity Kappa 6.5" coaxials in the sail panels... (at the time I guess I did not know the stock speakers were actually meant to be mid-bass/woofers?)



and an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 sub in the back.



Now, before anybody asks, I am not some huge fan of Infinity speakers or anything. I bought these mostly from a friend and I got a pretty good deal on them, so the price was right.

At the time I was running MTX amps (404 - 4 channel, 3202 - 2 channel, bridged). Got them off eBay (ugh, well, I was a poor college student).



The system sounded more or less OK, but things started to go wrong. The Kappa coaxials in the sail panels didn't hold up and I think both of them aren't working properly now. (Tweeter fell off of one, the other sounds blown) The MTX subwoofer amp started refusing to turn on intermittently, etc.


Fast forward to today. I'm not a broke college student anymore and this isn't my daily driver, so I have time to mess with stuff. I want to get my stereo back in good working order, so I'm looking at replacing some of this stuff.

Obviously I've already got 100% aftermarket stuff, so I've already run the speaker wires (I think I ran like 14 ga. to the speakers) and I've got all the groundwork laid, so I'm not going back to stock or anything.

What I'd like to do is replace my amps, and replace the speakers I have that are blown (Kappa coaxials in the sail panels), and get a new headunit.

(I think my Infinity component speakers up front and my 10" sub actually sound pretty good, so I was going to leave those as is.)

Was thinking of getting this head unit:

Pioneer DEH-4200UB - Cheap, takes wired remote input, looks ok?

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-42...8854947&sr=8-9

I have no idea what speakers I should put in the sail panels. I guess I should be looking for some 6.5" woofers?

Was thinking about these amps...

4 Channel:

JL 300/4 - 75W RMS x 4 is probably decent, I'd think? It is enough for my component speakers up front anyway.

http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-300-C...8855061&sr=8-1

Subwoofer:

JL 250/1 - My sub handles up to 350 W RMS, so a JL 500/1 is probably overkill. I think 250W RMS is likely sufficient?

http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-Slash...8855082&sr=8-1

Going to build a new amp rack and start that stuff from scratch to hold all this.

Anyway, I am an ultimate n00b when it comes to car audio, so feel free to mock any of this or make suggestions!

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Instead of 2 amps why not one JL XD700/5. It would do everything that both of those amps would do with one amp. I can get you a nice deal on that and it would take up less space and be easier to tune. Shoot me an email: keeaudio@bellsouth.net

TheHeadFL

Hadn't considered that. Looks like kind of a good deal.

Will email you...

bizerk1

I would do alpine head unit and speakers with a kicker sub and amp

Capricio

I put in Kee's HD6CFs, they are clearance priced right now and fit right in. The are nice SVC 4 Ohm carbon fiber midbass drivers. I have them running 80-250 Hz, any higher than that and they tend to pull the soundstage backwards.

http://keeaudio.com/cdtmidbass.html

I am driving them with an Audiopipe AP-1002, which seems about right for the job but you go with something a little larger, just make you have an LPF of at least 250-300 Hz.

For the hatch I just got some cheap Audiopipe 4" coaxials that were rated for the same RMS as the door speakers I put in, so I could safely run them off the same 4 channel amp, you'll probably tilt the fader a little forward anyways. I used the Pioneer GM-D9500F, I like the new full range class D amps out there.

Make sure you get a HU with all 3 sets of pre-outs and try for 4V RCA level signal, which your 4200 has, I just think red illumination looks nice with rest of the dash console. Also, some 90 degree RCA adapters can come in handy because the rear of your HU will be right up against the defrost duct and some RCA cables don't do well when bent sharply.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

For the sails CDT HD-M6, or Rainbow W 165 Germanium(IMO, best), running either one down to 50 to 60hz Range will sound great!

Al 96 Ram Air T/A

iTrader: (1)

Trust Ian at Kee...he won't stear you wrong.

I've got a similar setup. I'm using a Stealth box with an Alpine Type R sub, a Cadence 5-channel amp, and Polk Db coaxials, connected to a Pioneer double din HU. (AVH series)

Like you, the coaxials turned out to be the weak link. After much research, I askedIan to put a package together for me, using CDT speakers. Knowing how good the package he designed for me a couple of years ago, I know the new component/mid bass speaker set up will be everything I was hoping for.

The speakers should be installed in a couple of weeks, as I just purchased them.

sheikss

iTrader: (11)

Ian, you got an email.

TheHeadFL

Installed my Pioneer head unit this weekend (just picked it up from Best Buy since I was impatient) and got it working fine with my steering wheel controls and controlling my existing system... (although the seek buttons on my steering wheel seem to do non-intuitive things on the Pioneer)

Based on Kee Audio's suggestions, planning to do a JL XD700/5 and the HD-6CFs.

Ordered a 4-guage battery-alternator-ground cable kit last week, going to get that installed this weekend to make sure I won't have any charging issues. (My charging has kind of been weak) Also going to take out my capacitor that I had in my previous system.

Also have to replace my power antenna because it was ripped off years ago (vandals!), and while I was in there I removed my factory Delco amp. Going to try to rig a way to mount the new JL amp back there since it is nearly small enough...

If all goes well and I get the miscellaneous stuff done next weekend that I need to do, going to order the amp and speakers. I will post here to let everyone know how it goes!

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Thanks!! I hit you back. Let me know.

TheHeadFL

Well, did the big 3 upgrade. Got my speakers and amp from Ian at Kee Audio.

Got the amplifier mounting figured out...

Probably dumb question but, how are you guys mounting your sail panel speakers? The speakers are slightly smaller than the opening and the holes don't line up at all. My last ones were kind of rigged, but these won't work the same way. Anyone have any suggestions?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

If you can't pull the stock speed nuts in enough, use a #6 Dorman speednut and that will solve the problem. It just brings the holes in a little further. I have done this with the stock speed nuts as well.
I can't wait for the new CDT DVC subs to be done that Ken and I have come up with. They are in production right now and will be available in Sept. They match up perfectly using all the stock stuff. The HD-6MSUB SVC that is out right now matches up perfectly as well but are not DVC for the Firebird version of the Monsoon.

TheHeadFL

What do you think of the idea of switching out my Infinity sub for a JL 10W3V3 running at 2 Ohms? That would allow me to get the 'full' 300W RMS from my JL XD 700/5...

I dialed in the gain and it sounds pretty good right now, but I think I want a bit more kick out of the sub.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

JL W3V3 is a decent sub but you can do better. The CDT HD-1000CF is a better SQ sub with tighter response overall.
Another consideration that I have been using lately is Massive Audio. The TW-10 is a sick sub for the price and will outperform most subs out there in this price range. Uses a V shaped cone similar to what Hertz uses in their technology and has 24mm of excursion peak to peak. I can do one of these for a very good price and it would get you your 2ohm load. Email me for details:
keeaudio@bellsouth.net