New System
06-21-2004, 01:45 PM
#1
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New System Ok. I've posted this elsewhere but still need opinions. Here are the components I've settled on:
JVC Arsenal KD-AR3000 HU
$200
2 pair MB Quart DSD 216 Components (up front & side panel passengers)
$262 (for both pair)
Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 10" Subwoofer
$80
Subthump Driver's side Stealthbox
$112
I've already got these:
U.S. Acoustics USX-4065 65 x 4 Amp
U.S. Acoustics USB-600D 250 x 1 (@ 4 ohms) or 375 x 1 (@ 2 ohms) Amp
My questions are:
1) Which DVC Sub should I get? 4 ohm x 2 or 2 ohm x 2? Since my sub amp is stable to 2 ohms would the 4 ohm x 2 be the better choice?
2) Will this system sound a hell of a lot beter than factory?
JVC Arsenal KD-AR3000 HU
$200
2 pair MB Quart DSD 216 Components (up front & side panel passengers)
$262 (for both pair)
Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 10" Subwoofer
$80
Subthump Driver's side Stealthbox
$112
I've already got these:
U.S. Acoustics USX-4065 65 x 4 Amp
U.S. Acoustics USB-600D 250 x 1 (@ 4 ohms) or 375 x 1 (@ 2 ohms) Amp
My questions are:
1) Which DVC Sub should I get? 4 ohm x 2 or 2 ohm x 2? Since my sub amp is stable to 2 ohms would the 4 ohm x 2 be the better choice?
2) Will this system sound a hell of a lot beter than factory?
06-21-2004, 03:04 PM
#2
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I think that this system will sound better than the Monsoon at high volume - which is what the Monsoon struggles to do. In my opinion, once you roll the windows down, the monsoon can't keep up.
In regerds to your sub choice, I'd recommend going 2+2 so you can give that amp 4 ohms. The reason I say that is because you'll likely get a cleaner signal to the sub using that amp in 4 ohms (less THD) but even more importantly, the damping factor of that amp is rather low (listed at around 100) and it is almost always calculated at 4 ohms. If you go to 2 ohms, you've lost half of that damping and you're in trouble. It would be too little to control a sub, and you'd hear the difference. Also, due to the logarithmic nature of audio, the difference in power between the 2 & 4 ohm rating isn't that noticible. Clipping and underdamped drivers is noticable.
Just my .02
In regerds to your sub choice, I'd recommend going 2+2 so you can give that amp 4 ohms. The reason I say that is because you'll likely get a cleaner signal to the sub using that amp in 4 ohms (less THD) but even more importantly, the damping factor of that amp is rather low (listed at around 100) and it is almost always calculated at 4 ohms. If you go to 2 ohms, you've lost half of that damping and you're in trouble. It would be too little to control a sub, and you'd hear the difference. Also, due to the logarithmic nature of audio, the difference in power between the 2 & 4 ohm rating isn't that noticible. Clipping and underdamped drivers is noticable.
Just my .02
06-21-2004, 09:16 PM
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If it were me, I'd get 4ohm version of that sub and wire the coils in parallel. That will give you the 2ohm and sub will get 375 watts instead of 250. JMO though. That sub can handle so much more than that. THD is hardly a factor anymore and I don't believe lowering the impedence has anything to do with the quality of the signal. It's not going to be audible regardless, so put as many watts to the sub as you got. Don't waste 'em. Btw, I have a US Acoustic amp. It's an older one that I don't use much, but it was a real solid clean amp.
06-22-2004, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by megabass
If it were me, I'd get 4ohm version of that sub and wire the coils in parallel. That will give you the 2ohm and sub will get 375 watts instead of 250. JMO though. That sub can handle so much more than that. THD is hardly a factor anymore and I don't believe lowering the impedence has anything to do with the quality of the signal. It's not going to be audible regardless, so put as many watts to the sub as you got. Don't waste 'em. Btw, I have a US Acoustic amp. It's an older one that I don't use much, but it was a real solid clean amp.
06-22-2004, 11:49 AM
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FYI:
Damping (Damping factor, etc.) Refers to the ability of an audio component to "stop" after the signal ends. For example, if a drum is struck with a mallet, the sound will reach a peak level and then decay in a certain amount of time to no sound. An audio component that allows the decay to drag on too long has poor damping, and less definition than it should. An audio component that is overdamped does not allow the initial energy to reach the full peak and cuts the decay short. "Boomy" or "muddy" sound is often the result of underdamped systems. "Dry" or "lifeless" sound may be the result of an overdamped system
First power measurement: 250 watts
Second power measurement: 375 watts
Difference between measurements, in decibels=10*(log10(250/375))=1.8dB
...Just provided so you can make an educated decision. From the amp's specs, the sub will be underdamped. Double the damping for a loss of 1.8dB (in a region where cabin gain is giving you +12dB/octave for free) is a tradeoff that I'd consider.
When I moved from clean Fosgate power to clean Xtant/Zapco power, I attribute the improved sound quality to *much* better damping. The better control and improved dynamics actually gave the impression of having the same or more power when I actually had less (800 RF watts vs 300 Xtant watts). Food for thought.
Damping (Damping factor, etc.) Refers to the ability of an audio component to "stop" after the signal ends. For example, if a drum is struck with a mallet, the sound will reach a peak level and then decay in a certain amount of time to no sound. An audio component that allows the decay to drag on too long has poor damping, and less definition than it should. An audio component that is overdamped does not allow the initial energy to reach the full peak and cuts the decay short. "Boomy" or "muddy" sound is often the result of underdamped systems. "Dry" or "lifeless" sound may be the result of an overdamped system
First power measurement: 250 watts
Second power measurement: 375 watts
Difference between measurements, in decibels=10*(log10(250/375))=1.8dB
...Just provided so you can make an educated decision. From the amp's specs, the sub will be underdamped. Double the damping for a loss of 1.8dB (in a region where cabin gain is giving you +12dB/octave for free) is a tradeoff that I'd consider.
When I moved from clean Fosgate power to clean Xtant/Zapco power, I attribute the improved sound quality to *much* better damping. The better control and improved dynamics actually gave the impression of having the same or more power when I actually had less (800 RF watts vs 300 Xtant watts). Food for thought.
