frey51

I am planning on getting two sets of the Alpine SPS-170A 6 1/2's, for the doors and the sail panel. I am going to use the stock head unit, and stock wiring... and here is my plan.

"The stock HU runs at 4 ohms and powers the front door tweeters and the rear hatch tweeters/mids. The stock amp located next to the spare tire runs at 2 ohms and powers the midbass for the front door speakers and the back seat speakers."

First I will to put one set of the 6.5s in the doors, and obviously cut the wiring to put the tweeter off the head unit and the mid off the amp. Then I will put the other set in the sail panels, us the wires that are already there for the mid, and then pull back the wires from the hatch speakers and use those wires for the tweeter. This will put my mid ranges on the 2 ohm amp, and my tweeters on the 4 ohm head unit. Now, this should work correctly right? I mean there is the obvious 2-4 ohm differance but that can be over looked.

Secondly, I really want a 10 inch sub in a sub thump box. Obviously I will need an amp. I am not sure what sub I am gonna get, but I am thinking about the:
Alpine SWR-1042D (10" TypeR)
- dual 4-ohm voice coils
- frequency response: 26-500 Hz
- power handling: 50-500 watts RMS
- peak power: 1,500 watts.

Now, the amp I think I want which should power the sub and my four mid ranges is the:
Alpine MVR-F450
50 watts RMS x 4 + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
60 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
120 watts RMS x 2 + 200 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode

Will this amp, power all four of my mids, and my 10 inch sub? or should I first put in the 6.5s, then do the sub with its own amp (to see how it sounds) then if I want get a seperate 4ohm amp for the mids. Also, is it possible to utilize the wiring from the stock amp, for all the connections including power/ground/speakers or will I need to run new stuff for that also?

Keep in mind I am not trying to spend alot on this, which is why I want to stay with my stock head unit. I have read up on the stickys, and am pretty sure my mids and tweeter plan will work out find, but I am a little lost on my sub/amp. Any insight, like what you did with your stock system to make it better such as upgrading like my plan or something different. Thanks in advance

Fry

AnimalSS

iTrader: (1)

I added Infinity Kappas to my Monsoon a few months ago. Here's the thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...nsoon+Infinity

frey51

I would probably do something like that if my stock subs weren't crapped out. But I herad the alpines have better bass

BLOW ME FASTR

Big Alpine fan huh? Are you looking for a cheap system, or something decent for a practical price? I might be able to do a better setup if you like with a budget in mind.

NOT saying Alpine is cheap.

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

In the Monsoon system, the head unit ONLY powers the tweeters. The amp in the trunk is actually a 6 channel amp that powers all of the woofers in the system...

As far as using the Monsoon amp with the component sets you're wanting to use, this is why I would recommend NOT going that route: the Monsoon amp has built in crossover settings for each of the 3 sets of woofers it powers. If you use the wiring from the rear hatch speakers to power the tweeter in the component set you're gonna mount in the sail panels, your tweeters in that set are only going to be getting the lower frequencies that the amp's crossover was set to play the stock woofers at. Your best bet is to just cut the Monsoon amp totally out of the loop and run your components off that Alpine amp you picked out. Since it's 2 ohm stable on the 4 front channels you should be able to wire both a woofer and a tweeter to each channel on that amp. Another possibility would be to leave the front door tweeters running off the head unit and only hook the woofer in the front component set to the front channels, making the front channels run in 4 ohm and the rear channels 2 ohm. That would save you the trouble of running wires for the tweeters in your doors back to the amp. That's up to you.

Now as far as how to hook the amp to the head unit, you'll need one of these: http://www.tune-town.com/Cars/stuff/pac_oem1.htm

It's an adapter that plugs into the factory wiring that will give you two sets of RCA outputs. It also has a remote turn on lead. The only other guesswork involved here is to just determine which lead off the Monsoon amp connects to which speaker in the system, match them with the appropriate Alpine speaker, then attach them to the appropriate channel on the Alpine amp.

If you get stuck and need more help, this website gives detailed instructions on how to do the procedure you're wanting to do:

http://mods.firebirdv6.com/stereo.html#FBAQ_9

Good luck

frey51

So you are saying that the stock HU runs doesnt power the speakers in the rear hatch? That is not what I have heard, arnt they run directly off of the hu like the tweeters in the front doors?

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

There's a slight misnomer about the HU running the rear hatch speakers. The Trans Am's that were equipped with the Monsoon system actually came with 10 speakers in the system, and the rear hatch speakers were actually a separate component set that consisted of a .6" tweeter and a 4" mid. In THAT system, the HU powers the tweeters in the rear hatch. But in the Camaro's, there is only one set of tweeters in the system which are the ones in the front doors. In both systems, the Monsoon amp still powers the 4" mid in the rear hatch though. When you heard somebody say something about their HU powering their rear speakers, it was probably said by a Trans Am owner.

If you want, you might try giving GM's technical service hotline a call and ask them what frequency the crossover that's connected to the rear hatch speaker in the Camaro Monsoon system is set at. Common sense says that it's not gonna play as high of a frequency as a tweeter, since the Trans Am's system actually has a tweeter in that same spot...