Adjustable rear suspension - Best practices?
04-06-2009, 02:55 PM
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Adjustable rear suspension - Best practices? Hello all-
My goal for this year is to be able to pull both tires off the line @ the track. Having said that, I've recently upgraded all of the rear suspension in my car, less the shocks (soon enough they too will be changed). I'd like to get some opinions on the following questions:
1. BMR's xtreme drag sway bar setup - I've got the thing into the car and it definitely changes how the car handles and keeps it flat on hard acceleration. My question has to do with adjustable end links. What should I be doing to properly "setup" this sway bar? I was thinking through its function and wondered if I could use it to almost preload the car to the drivers side by just a tad to help body roll on launches? Oddly enough, no tuning directions came with the unit.
2. Panhard & LCAs - I have Spohn's components. I think I correctly understand that the LCAs and panhard really only locate the axle and therefore don't really require tuning?
3. Torque arm - I also have Spohn's TA. This I've read needs to be set somewhere between 0* and -4*. Right now I'm setup @ -2.5" and it seems to be fine, but I wonder if there is more traction available to me. Is the only real way to figure this out trial and error?
4. Shocks - adjustable rear shocks are often thought of as necessary to really leave hard, although lots of people claim to be cutting as low as 1.4's and 1.5's on stock shocks. Are something like Koni's really necessary (read: $$$) or can something less expensive get the job done?
5. Springs - Here's where I think I'm going to have problems. I'm currently running sport lines. I really love how the car sits on the street. Think I can pull the tires running sport lines? Lowered cars don't usually assist in traction.
6. Wheels / Tires - I'm running MT ET Radials on 15x10's & 15x4 draglites @ the track. Is this enough tire, or will I have to go all out and get a slick?
Thanks for any feedback folks!
My goal for this year is to be able to pull both tires off the line @ the track. Having said that, I've recently upgraded all of the rear suspension in my car, less the shocks (soon enough they too will be changed). I'd like to get some opinions on the following questions:
1. BMR's xtreme drag sway bar setup - I've got the thing into the car and it definitely changes how the car handles and keeps it flat on hard acceleration. My question has to do with adjustable end links. What should I be doing to properly "setup" this sway bar? I was thinking through its function and wondered if I could use it to almost preload the car to the drivers side by just a tad to help body roll on launches? Oddly enough, no tuning directions came with the unit.
2. Panhard & LCAs - I have Spohn's components. I think I correctly understand that the LCAs and panhard really only locate the axle and therefore don't really require tuning?
3. Torque arm - I also have Spohn's TA. This I've read needs to be set somewhere between 0* and -4*. Right now I'm setup @ -2.5" and it seems to be fine, but I wonder if there is more traction available to me. Is the only real way to figure this out trial and error?
4. Shocks - adjustable rear shocks are often thought of as necessary to really leave hard, although lots of people claim to be cutting as low as 1.4's and 1.5's on stock shocks. Are something like Koni's really necessary (read: $$$) or can something less expensive get the job done?
5. Springs - Here's where I think I'm going to have problems. I'm currently running sport lines. I really love how the car sits on the street. Think I can pull the tires running sport lines? Lowered cars don't usually assist in traction.
6. Wheels / Tires - I'm running MT ET Radials on 15x10's & 15x4 draglites @ the track. Is this enough tire, or will I have to go all out and get a slick?
Thanks for any feedback folks!
04-15-2009, 11:27 AM
#3
Hello, the best way to set up our extreme sway bar is to have the suspension loaded and have someone your weight or yourself in the driver seat. Set the passenger side endlink loose then set the drivers side loose also but the turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn pulling the bar up to the floor. Do this only on the drivers side. I would also suggest a set of relocation brackets for your control arms. This allows you to move the instant center rearward. Im sure you have other questions. Give me a call if possible its easier to explain things over the phone.
04-15-2009, 11:28 AM
#4
Hello
Here are a few ideas! Look into a set of Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets we offer 2 versions weld on and bolt on below is a link to show you what we have to offer. And a set of Strange Engineering or QA1. Any adjustable will work well. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=125
Thanks
Brad
Here are a few ideas! Look into a set of Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets we offer 2 versions weld on and bolt on below is a link to show you what we have to offer. And a set of Strange Engineering or QA1. Any adjustable will work well. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=125
Thanks
Brad
04-15-2009, 11:36 AM
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I suppose I should have mentioned that I already have relocation brackets! They came welded to the 9" housing I picked up early this year.
Both UMI and BMR reply, very cool seeing as I have both manufacturers parts on my car! Thanks guys!
Dennis, you'll be getting a call shortly.
Both UMI and BMR reply, very cool seeing as I have both manufacturers parts on my car! Thanks guys!
Dennis, you'll be getting a call shortly.