High Failure Rate Item?
04-30-2009, 01:29 PM
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High Failure Rate Item? Ok so I'm looking at napaonline.com for a brake hardware kit and I stumble on this for the rear caliper replacement brackets. Below the part description, it reads "Left & Right The Bracket On This Application Is A High Failure Rate Item". Does that mean f-bods have crappy rear caliper brackets? And how would you know if one failed as you were driving? for what it's worth, I do feel a strong shutter when braking at higher speeds....but it doesn't feel like a warped rotor or seized caliper. I'll be doing the brakes in a couple weeks anyway...
05-01-2009, 06:19 AM
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Sorry about the spelling, I wasn't wearing my glasses.
Many makes and models use calipers that float on two steel pins inserted into the bracket. It the rubber seal fails or these pins are allowed to go dry of lubrication they will all corrode in the bore and or sieze up. This effectively locks the caliper in place and dosen't allow it to follow the rotor as the pads wear or holds the pad tight against the caliper after using the brakes when it should shove off. When maintained and in proper working order these work great. So crappy is a matter of not being idiot proof here, not an design issue.
If you feel like the brakes are dragging, smell pads overheating, feel one wheel really hotter than the others, have to start pumping the brakes a time when stopping, can't push the car easily on level ground in nuetral, have one pad out of a set of four wearing much faster than the others, or any combination of the above you should investigate your offending wheel brake. If the wheel is stuck, first open the bleeder screw to releave any hydraulic pressure. If that frees it then it's a hydraulic issue, usually a hose that's developed an internal tear acting as a one way check valve so replace it before moving onto the master cylinder. If the brake is still holding fast pull the caliper off and check rotation again to rule out a bad wheel bearing etc. When checking in back both tires should be up and the trans in nuetral. If the wheel spins freely once the caliper is off check caliper slide pins, if they are dry and or stuck in the bracket then get another bracket, only if you're really bucks down or can't get another bracket anytime soon is it worth reparing. Use typical heavy handed metal wrangling (lots of Penetrating oil, big hammer & wrenches, and or heat).
On any brake job worth doing always have some brake caliper grease on hand and a new brake hardware kit with the rubber pin boots. Disassemble and clean all slides and bores then relube generously and reseal. Have the rotors turned by someplace competent or renew them with some quality new rotors. The cheapest one usually have to be turned right out of the box do to Chinese quality out of control.
If you feel shudder under heavy brakeing it's most likely warped rotors. Other possibles are worn tie-rod ends, bad tire with a bulge, bent wheel, or bad hub / wheel bearing. You can determine which with some simple checks.
Vernon
Many makes and models use calipers that float on two steel pins inserted into the bracket. It the rubber seal fails or these pins are allowed to go dry of lubrication they will all corrode in the bore and or sieze up. This effectively locks the caliper in place and dosen't allow it to follow the rotor as the pads wear or holds the pad tight against the caliper after using the brakes when it should shove off. When maintained and in proper working order these work great. So crappy is a matter of not being idiot proof here, not an design issue.
If you feel like the brakes are dragging, smell pads overheating, feel one wheel really hotter than the others, have to start pumping the brakes a time when stopping, can't push the car easily on level ground in nuetral, have one pad out of a set of four wearing much faster than the others, or any combination of the above you should investigate your offending wheel brake. If the wheel is stuck, first open the bleeder screw to releave any hydraulic pressure. If that frees it then it's a hydraulic issue, usually a hose that's developed an internal tear acting as a one way check valve so replace it before moving onto the master cylinder. If the brake is still holding fast pull the caliper off and check rotation again to rule out a bad wheel bearing etc. When checking in back both tires should be up and the trans in nuetral. If the wheel spins freely once the caliper is off check caliper slide pins, if they are dry and or stuck in the bracket then get another bracket, only if you're really bucks down or can't get another bracket anytime soon is it worth reparing. Use typical heavy handed metal wrangling (lots of Penetrating oil, big hammer & wrenches, and or heat).
On any brake job worth doing always have some brake caliper grease on hand and a new brake hardware kit with the rubber pin boots. Disassemble and clean all slides and bores then relube generously and reseal. Have the rotors turned by someplace competent or renew them with some quality new rotors. The cheapest one usually have to be turned right out of the box do to Chinese quality out of control.
If you feel shudder under heavy brakeing it's most likely warped rotors. Other possibles are worn tie-rod ends, bad tire with a bulge, bent wheel, or bad hub / wheel bearing. You can determine which with some simple checks.
Vernon
Last edited by Manic Mechanic; 05-01-2009 at 09:31 AM.
