View Poll Results: What to do
Sticky tires on 16in wheels, learn to drive.
15
19.48%
larger wheel brake combination on formula.
59
76.62%
Forget the firebird. Bring the mustang to BOSS 302 spec.
4
5.19%
Use Mod money to rent preped cars.
5
6.49%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll
Help me set up my Formula for the Nurburgring. Long story.
06-09-2012, 03:33 PM
#41
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My advice you definetly need 275 maybe 285 all around my car has nt555 zr tires on 18 wheels and i havent been able to slide in a corner at speed and ive taken some downright nasty corners on those tires but they certainly gave me alot of confidence in the corners oh and bmr springs too thats whats working for me just my advice im building my car up towards road racing too
my 18x10's weigh in at around 20 lbs. 
06-11-2012, 12:49 AM
#48
Launching!
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I already have oil temp problems as it is.
06-11-2012, 04:52 AM
#49
I took those out just a few weeks before I left. I have a D1SC, and a Dry nitrous kit for the car. I had already installed the fuel system for the power adders when I discovered road racing. I couldn't bring my self to add all that weight to the nose of the car. Not to mention the reduction in reliability, and increase in heat production.
I already have oil temp problems as it is.
I already have oil temp problems as it is.
Cant say that its more reliable than a LS1... not by a long shot, but all the engine weight sits squarely behind the front wheels.
07-11-2012, 03:53 PM
#50
275/40/17 R compound tires on 17x9 through a 17x10.5 wheel on all four corners (keep it equally sized front and rear), or 315/35/17 R compound tires on all four corners for more grip on a 17x11 wheel (traditional 17x11 ZR1 style wheels should work) with minimal hammering to the inner fender well. spacers may be needed with 17x11 wheels.
A tubular panhard bar and tubular rear lower control arms also help immensely. More-so when they have heim joints (AKA rod ends). If you have the money, look into the Fays2 watts link that Strano sells.
As far as the D1SC goes, there are various ways to remove weight from the front of the car (tubular K-member, battery relocation, etc.). Although, you should be more concerned with getting your car to handle somewhat properly before throwing more power and weight at it.
Alignment also makes a big difference in the feel of the car. Slight negative camber and a 0 toe instead of a negative toe setting help cornering at a slight cost of high-speed stability.
A tubular panhard bar and tubular rear lower control arms also help immensely. More-so when they have heim joints (AKA rod ends). If you have the money, look into the Fays2 watts link that Strano sells.
As far as the D1SC goes, there are various ways to remove weight from the front of the car (tubular K-member, battery relocation, etc.). Although, you should be more concerned with getting your car to handle somewhat properly before throwing more power and weight at it.
Alignment also makes a big difference in the feel of the car. Slight negative camber and a 0 toe instead of a negative toe setting help cornering at a slight cost of high-speed stability.
Last edited by ZexGX; 07-11-2012 at 04:01 PM.
07-12-2012, 04:35 AM
#51
A big advantage to running 17" wheels is that tires have become far more common, and cheap for them. So many cars run 17" from the factory, that you can get just about any tire for them, at an affordable price.
You might even be able to get a set of take-offs from guys with race cars for cheap that may have a weekend or two left in them.
You might even be able to get a set of take-offs from guys with race cars for cheap that may have a weekend or two left in them.
07-12-2012, 11:40 AM
#52
A big advantage to running 17" wheels is that tires have become far more common, and cheap for them. So many cars run 17" from the factory, that you can get just about any tire for them, at an affordable price.
You might even be able to get a set of take-offs from guys with race cars for cheap that may have a weekend or two left in them.
You might even be able to get a set of take-offs from guys with race cars for cheap that may have a weekend or two left in them.
Unfortunately, 275/40/17 is mostly a Camaro/Firebird/Corvette/Mustang tire size and a lot of shops don't keep them in stock, you have to have them order it from a warehouse which can be anywhere from same day to like 2-4 days here in the US.
I agree though, that 17" is the way to go. 16" rims on 4th gen F-bodies are only good for two things... Drag racing, and road trips.
07-17-2012, 08:55 PM
#54
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These tire right here are what you need.
http://tirecrawler.com/shop/detail_t...roduct_id=7006
They have them in 18"s not sure on the 17"s
http://tirecrawler.com/shop/detail_t...roduct_id=7006
They have them in 18"s not sure on the 17"s
07-17-2012, 09:12 PM
#55
275/40/17 R compound tires on 17x9 through a 17x10.5 wheel on all four corners (keep it equally sized front and rear), or 315/35/17 R compound tires on all four corners for more grip on a 17x11 wheel (traditional 17x11 ZR1 style wheels should work) with minimal hammering to the inner fender well. spacers may be needed with 17x11 wheels.
07-18-2012, 02:37 PM
#56
Here is the not so short story of my nurburgring experience.
First time out about 1.5 years ago. The car had strano springs/ sway bars / koni adjustable shocks, michelin pilot sport a/s 245 series tires on 16in rims.
Hawk pads, and curved vane rotors from strano.
My goal was to do 10:00 Bridge to gantry......(top gear challenge)
My first timed lap was around 12:30. Car was extremely loose, but a lot of fun to drive. Shocks were set to full soft front and back. Basically I would drift the first couple of corners, the tires would get greasy, and the rest of the lap I was just trying to stay out of the barriers.
I wasn't learning the track, so I rented a 195hp Renault Clio, with slick tires, big brakes, and within 6 laps, I ran a 10:00.56. close enough for me.
Jumped back into the formula, and even with my new knowledge of the track my best was a 10:03.xx. The car was too lose, I was overheating the engine, and the brake pedal was going to the floor by the end of the lap(dot 3 brake fluid).
As I'm getting ready to leave a very tall German gentleman stops me, and asks if I would like to do a formation lap with another f-body. I tell him my car has been cooking its brakes, and tires, and that I need it to get me home still. So he offers me a ride in his mint 2001 SS camaro(German spec). Its stock down to the paper air filter engine wise. Has the same suspension set up as my car, but with cooled 13in brakes, and 275 slick tires on zr1 rims. He takes me for a ride in the low 9s, said his best was in the 8:40 range.
I learned more form that one lap than from all my previous ones put together.
First time out about 1.5 years ago. The car had strano springs/ sway bars / koni adjustable shocks, michelin pilot sport a/s 245 series tires on 16in rims.
Hawk pads, and curved vane rotors from strano.
My goal was to do 10:00 Bridge to gantry......(top gear challenge)
My first timed lap was around 12:30. Car was extremely loose, but a lot of fun to drive. Shocks were set to full soft front and back. Basically I would drift the first couple of corners, the tires would get greasy, and the rest of the lap I was just trying to stay out of the barriers.
I wasn't learning the track, so I rented a 195hp Renault Clio, with slick tires, big brakes, and within 6 laps, I ran a 10:00.56. close enough for me.
Jumped back into the formula, and even with my new knowledge of the track my best was a 10:03.xx. The car was too lose, I was overheating the engine, and the brake pedal was going to the floor by the end of the lap(dot 3 brake fluid).
As I'm getting ready to leave a very tall German gentleman stops me, and asks if I would like to do a formation lap with another f-body. I tell him my car has been cooking its brakes, and tires, and that I need it to get me home still. So he offers me a ride in his mint 2001 SS camaro(German spec). Its stock down to the paper air filter engine wise. Has the same suspension set up as my car, but with cooled 13in brakes, and 275 slick tires on zr1 rims. He takes me for a ride in the low 9s, said his best was in the 8:40 range.
I learned more form that one lap than from all my previous ones put together.
If the tall German man was on my stuff, and went that fast with only the tires being the difference (and with less power), and you are clearly capable of the speed given your times in other cars... then you just need to some good tires.
I'm fond of saying that the best suspension in the world means nothing if the tires suck. They are what hook you to the road. I see drag racers put all this stuff on the car, then run street tires and wonder why they can't hook. Michael Jordan wouldn't have been "Michael Jordan" if he were made to play basketball in dress loafers, right?
Get some tires. I don't know what size you need and what ever tire comes in but I can highly recommend Hankook R-S3's as an awesome dry grip tire (and a true street tire) that doesn't cost a lot. It's not as good as some others in the rain though.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
07-18-2012, 02:43 PM
#57
A little bit of tire stretch isn't too bad when it comes to handling. Also, can you name a tire size that is within .2" of a 25.7" tall tire, that is actually produced, that is between 275mm and 305mm? A 315 is a little too wide for proper fitment on 10.5" wheels. For handling, you usually don't want a lot of tire bulge (excess sidewall) as this leads to more sidewall flex.
07-18-2012, 03:05 PM
#58
Not a lot of real world experience but on forza first thing on any of my cars is larger wheels, race tires, and big brakes!
And that sounds like exactly what you need! Amazing writer be the way, longest post on tech Ive read in awhile and loved it. I usually would have closed a thread that long.
And that sounds like exactly what you need! Amazing writer be the way, longest post on tech Ive read in awhile and loved it. I usually would have closed a thread that long.
07-18-2012, 03:43 PM
#59
TECH Resident
run some light weight 17" wheels (like the weld racing 17's or even stock 17x9.5 speedlines) and some 275/40/17 Nitto Nt01 or Nt05 tires all the way around (road racing/autocross tires) and some lightweight brakes. along with a trans cooler (if its auto) and a rear differential cooler to keep things cool while driving it soo hard. subframe connectors will stiffen it up and make cornering more manageable also...
07-19-2012, 06:35 AM
#60
TECH Addict
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ive been trying to go up tthere to that since ive been here. even set my car up suspentioneise for it. just cant seem to ever get the time lol gonna see if i can get up there this august.