torque arm punched a hole through floor board/drive shaft tunnel
#1
torque arm punched a hole through floor board/drive shaft tunnel
I'm running the wolfe adjustable spring mounts, 10"x2.5" 150 lb springs, and 28" tires with a UMI tunnel mount torque arm.
I dont have the rear adjusted that low, I'm not even tucking the tires. My LCAs, panhard bar, and torque arm are all adjusted correctly.
With that said my torque arm has punched a hole through drive shaft tunnel. Just trying to figure out what you guys are doing to fix this. I'm using the outer bolt holes on the torque arm to 9" rear. I'm thinking maybe cut those off so i can use the inner bolt holes which would pull the torque arm in a little. And if that doesn't work in thinking about cutting the rear of the drive shaft tunnel out and widening/raising it a little
I dont have the rear adjusted that low, I'm not even tucking the tires. My LCAs, panhard bar, and torque arm are all adjusted correctly.
With that said my torque arm has punched a hole through drive shaft tunnel. Just trying to figure out what you guys are doing to fix this. I'm using the outer bolt holes on the torque arm to 9" rear. I'm thinking maybe cut those off so i can use the inner bolt holes which would pull the torque arm in a little. And if that doesn't work in thinking about cutting the rear of the drive shaft tunnel out and widening/raising it a little
#2
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
Use the inner set of mounting holes on the torque arm and it will give you more clearance between the torque arm and the tunnel. Even if it means trimming the bracket you will want to do it and it shouldn't have any adverse effects on the torque arm.
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#3
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I just installed my 12 bolt and it is doing the same thing. But hasnt beathen a hole into it yet. I am also running the outside bolt holes and plan on trimming the bracket to fit to the inside bolt holes.
#5
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
I'm running the wolfe adjustable spring mounts, 10"x2.5" 150 lb springs, and 28" tires with a UMI tunnel mount torque arm.
I dont have the rear adjusted that low, I'm not even tucking the tires. My LCAs, panhard bar, and torque arm are all adjusted correctly.
With that said my torque arm has punched a hole through drive shaft tunnel. Just trying to figure out what you guys are doing to fix this. I'm using the outer bolt holes on the torque arm to 9" rear. I'm thinking maybe cut those off so i can use the inner bolt holes which would pull the torque arm in a little. And if that doesn't work in thinking about cutting the rear of the drive shaft tunnel out and widening/raising it a little
I dont have the rear adjusted that low, I'm not even tucking the tires. My LCAs, panhard bar, and torque arm are all adjusted correctly.
With that said my torque arm has punched a hole through drive shaft tunnel. Just trying to figure out what you guys are doing to fix this. I'm using the outer bolt holes on the torque arm to 9" rear. I'm thinking maybe cut those off so i can use the inner bolt holes which would pull the torque arm in a little. And if that doesn't work in thinking about cutting the rear of the drive shaft tunnel out and widening/raising it a little
#6
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
Most 9" rear ends allow you to slide the torque arm into the next set of holes with out cutting. I know the UMI and BMR torque arms allows this, this is why we place two sets of holes so the torque arm can accommodate different rear ends when you swap, its not just made for one rear end. However there could be some 9" rear ends that don't allow this. So try using the 2nd set of holes with out cutting, if it won't work then you need to cut the first set off.
I hope that helps,
I hope that helps,
#7
Yea i tried using the inner bolt holes when i first put it on but it won't fit. I don't have a problem with grinding the outer holes off though. I understand when everything on a car is aftermarket, nothing is going to fit and work like factory, so no biggie.
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#9
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
I had to trim my UMI TA to fit the set of holes that brings it tighter to my S60. Wasn't that bad at all. However, my car is on Hotchkis springs with the heater hose mod in the back, so it still hits the tunnel. I've read that we can BFH the tunnel for additional clearance. Is this something you guys deal with often as well?
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
I had to trim my UMI TA to fit the set of holes that brings it tighter to my S60. Wasn't that bad at all. However, my car is on Hotchkis springs with the heater hose mod in the back, so it still hits the tunnel. I've read that we can BFH the tunnel for additional clearance. Is this something you guys deal with often as well?
Since the torque arm bolts to the rear end it will get closer to the tunnel area as the housing grows. For example the S60 is very larger, because of its girth it pushes the torque arm even closer to the tunnel. I have never had one rip the tunnel like above, usually just dents it. My personal cars runs S60, UMI torque arm and 1.250" lower.
#11
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Yes the hammer mod would be next.
Since the torque arm bolts to the rear end it will get closer to the tunnel area as the housing grows. For example the S60 is very larger, because of its girth it pushes the torque arm even closer to the tunnel. I have never had one rip the tunnel like above, usually just dents it. My personal cars runs S60, UMI torque arm and 1.250" lower.
Since the torque arm bolts to the rear end it will get closer to the tunnel area as the housing grows. For example the S60 is very larger, because of its girth it pushes the torque arm even closer to the tunnel. I have never had one rip the tunnel like above, usually just dents it. My personal cars runs S60, UMI torque arm and 1.250" lower.
#12
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I pulled my carpet this weekend and found the same thing. I have a moser 9" and a umi tunnel mounted torque arm. I am running it on the outside holes as well to pull the arm closer to the rear. I am actually out in the garage attempting to resolve it right now.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
have an s60 rear with the umi adj torque arm, on 2002 ss with the bilstein suspension so the rear sits low. on mine i had to take the jig saw to the torque arm bracket that mounts on the rear, cut the top of it so the bracket would sit and bring tq arm closest to the rear axle. then with rear springs out and everything else installed let body rest on axle via bump stops and check your torque arm clearance to body. Also check your drive shaft clearance to the tunnel specifically the bracket on the tunnel where the e-brake cabling is, i found mine just started to touch my 3.5" drive shaft so i had to put a 1/8" plate to shim the bump stops to maintain that drive shaft clearance to body.
also try putting the upper bolt on the torque arm bracket that holds the torque arm, the one that is going to hit the tunnel, facing inward so it's the bolt head on the outside. this will give you more clearance, although it's harder to install and tighten but i found when having the bolt end and nut towards the tunnel that was what was hitting, and a grade 8 bolt will win against the tunnel every time. i also had to hammer the tunnel where the bolt would hit to give some relief.
also try putting the upper bolt on the torque arm bracket that holds the torque arm, the one that is going to hit the tunnel, facing inward so it's the bolt head on the outside. this will give you more clearance, although it's harder to install and tighten but i found when having the bolt end and nut towards the tunnel that was what was hitting, and a grade 8 bolt will win against the tunnel every time. i also had to hammer the tunnel where the bolt would hit to give some relief.
#16
I'll get a pic Thursday or Friday when i take it off to grind it down a little.
And I'm not trying to give UMI a bad rap. The brackets on the BMR and other torque arms are just as wide so they would all hit in the same place if you're as low as i am with 10" drag springs and using the outer holes on the bracket. I'm still very happy with the product and understand when everything is aftermarket nothing fits like factory
And I'm not trying to give UMI a bad rap. The brackets on the BMR and other torque arms are just as wide so they would all hit in the same place if you're as low as i am with 10" drag springs and using the outer holes on the bracket. I'm still very happy with the product and understand when everything is aftermarket nothing fits like factory
#17
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
have an s60 rear with the umi adj torque arm, on 2002 ss with the bilstein suspension so the rear sits low. on mine i had to take the jig saw to the torque arm bracket that mounts on the rear, cut the top of it so the bracket would sit and bring tq arm closest to the rear axle. then with rear springs out and everything else installed let body rest on axle via bump stops and check your torque arm clearance to body. Also check your drive shaft clearance to the tunnel specifically the bracket on the tunnel where the e-brake cabling is, i found mine just started to touch my 3.5" drive shaft so i had to put a 1/8" plate to shim the bump stops to maintain that drive shaft clearance to body.
also try putting the upper bolt on the torque arm bracket that holds the torque arm, the one that is going to hit the tunnel, facing inward so it's the bolt head on the outside. this will give you more clearance, although it's harder to install and tighten but i found when having the bolt end and nut towards the tunnel that was what was hitting, and a grade 8 bolt will win against the tunnel every time. i also had to hammer the tunnel where the bolt would hit to give some relief.
also try putting the upper bolt on the torque arm bracket that holds the torque arm, the one that is going to hit the tunnel, facing inward so it's the bolt head on the outside. this will give you more clearance, although it's harder to install and tighten but i found when having the bolt end and nut towards the tunnel that was what was hitting, and a grade 8 bolt will win against the tunnel every time. i also had to hammer the tunnel where the bolt would hit to give some relief.
#18
12 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
This info is for Strange rear ends but it should help you with your torque arm fitment. Check out page 4.
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/Stra...g-warranty.pdf
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/Stra...g-warranty.pdf
#20
Well UMI is right, the inner bolt holes do fit without grinding the outer ones off. Mine was already set on the inner holes, I just don't remember doing that.
So because it's already using the inner holes i can't move it in any more. I raised the rear of the car up using my adjustable spring mounts for a temporary fix, but looks like if i want to tuck the tires the only option is to tub out the rear of the drive shaft tunnel. (I could just beat everything in but that's tacky to me). I'll tub it when i eventually do my mini tubs I've had forever now.
Here's some pics
Where the torque arm mount punched a hole through
Where the brackets on the rear end that attach to the torque arm is hitting but hasn't gone through
So because it's already using the inner holes i can't move it in any more. I raised the rear of the car up using my adjustable spring mounts for a temporary fix, but looks like if i want to tuck the tires the only option is to tub out the rear of the drive shaft tunnel. (I could just beat everything in but that's tacky to me). I'll tub it when i eventually do my mini tubs I've had forever now.
Here's some pics
Where the torque arm mount punched a hole through
Where the brackets on the rear end that attach to the torque arm is hitting but hasn't gone through