Another brakes wtf moment
#1
Another brakes wtf moment
I have good brake pressure at first then half way it just collapses. Bleeding the brakes old school the driver front is getting fluid but not any pressure in it. The rest are fine.
#3
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How did you determine that only one of four is not getting adequate pressure?
I recently put on pads on all fours, and the next day bled the brakes with a Motive Power Bleeder and the peddle does not feel as firm as it did prior to the pad change & bleed. I checked for bubbles on all four and same result, so I have a somewhat similar condition. I did wonder if this could be due to ABS and the ~2 oz of fluid that may be trapped in there -- and I need to command open its solenoid with HP Tuners and then bleed?
I recently put on pads on all fours, and the next day bled the brakes with a Motive Power Bleeder and the peddle does not feel as firm as it did prior to the pad change & bleed. I checked for bubbles on all four and same result, so I have a somewhat similar condition. I did wonder if this could be due to ABS and the ~2 oz of fluid that may be trapped in there -- and I need to command open its solenoid with HP Tuners and then bleed?
#4
Bleeding in the brakes manually the other three shoot fluid out, meanwhile the drivers front just trickles with about a 1/16 of an inch gap between the rotor and pad. I did a LQ4 swap and haven't gotten it running yet due to wiring issues so I don't have vacuum on it. Could this be my booster problem? The rest our moves a little too when I press the brake pedal. All the bolts are tight though.
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#12
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if it was a booster issue you'd have problems all around. drivers front is essentially the one that requires the least amount of fluid... regardless, maybe its a bad master. but what I am saying is a flex line is cheaper and easier to do than a master, and it is worth it to do it because of the age of your car
#13
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Have you thought to have the ABS system scanned for codes? This usually requires a dedicated system which can do this, since it is a separate set of codes from most engine code readers. Some parts shops scan ABS codes free now, like Advance Auto by me, be sure to ask year coverage...
Doing this could give you some good clues about problems -- it told me I had a bad ABS Motor Pack (which is easily replaced) on my now sold '95 Camaro 3.4L...
Doing this could give you some good clues about problems -- it told me I had a bad ABS Motor Pack (which is easily replaced) on my now sold '95 Camaro 3.4L...
#15
I had a similar issue with my Chevy truck. The abs solenoid was closed not allowing air to bleed from the brake line. My professional mechanic friend said to drive down a dirt road or on wet pavement and slam on the brakes enough to lock up the tires activating the abs. This caused the valve to open and it let me purge out the air that was locked up in there.