stock rotors suck!!!
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stock rotors suck!!!
So for the 2nd time with in 10,000 miles my rotors have warped again so instead of just getting them turned again im going to get some new rotors, but i am wondering what people think of the "dimpled" and powerslotted rotors made by prostop or should i just go with the powerslotted rotors by brembo. I dont really want to get cross drilled because of the cracking that can occur.
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What pads are you using? I've found the stock pads are far far worse than the stock rotors. Brake dust may suck, but it sucks a LOT less than warped rotors.
You may find the OEM rotors are just fine with a half decent pad, even some really good pads, as far as stopping power, not dusting. Just accept the dust.
You may find the OEM rotors are just fine with a half decent pad, even some really good pads, as far as stopping power, not dusting. Just accept the dust.
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I replaced mine with some replacement from Advance Auto, and new pads. No more shimmy. But MAKE SURE that you bed them in good and *gently*. Don't heat up the rotors for a long time... I went out on a real slow drive for about 2 hours, not over 45 mph, pushed the brakes as gently as possible, checked them for heat (with my hand) and let them cool down before driving any farther, coasted to stops and engine braking. Should be good with that I think. If you are gonna road race or autox drilled may get cracks.
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Yes they do suck!
Part of the issue is rust on the rotor and hub where they meet. These need to be clean of rust and scale. Also, over torque of the lugnuts will wreck them. I had a rotor warp after a tire shop fixed a tire. When I took the lugnuts off one was much tighter. You cannot trust torque limiting lugnut sticks unless you know the air pressure is consistent. Make sure whoever(even you!) works on you car torques the lugnuts by hand!
The factory and standard replacement rotors do suck. Due to the rotors being seperate from the hubs and overdrive transmissions (no engine breaking) on our cars rotors work much harder than they used to.
I am able to get replacement ones cheap so I plan on replacement or turning as a standard service(every third or fourth oil change). I have thought of getting aftermarket ones but I am not sure if I can justify it when I get the standard ones so cheap-unless I knew that I would get 30-40K out of them?
If regular are $25-$35 each(front) and aftermarket drilled/slotted ones are $100 each how can you justify one for the price of four?? How many miles can you get out of drilled/slotted ones?
I would try standard replacement and make sure your wheels are torqued right and your hubs are clean.
Good luck!!
Part of the issue is rust on the rotor and hub where they meet. These need to be clean of rust and scale. Also, over torque of the lugnuts will wreck them. I had a rotor warp after a tire shop fixed a tire. When I took the lugnuts off one was much tighter. You cannot trust torque limiting lugnut sticks unless you know the air pressure is consistent. Make sure whoever(even you!) works on you car torques the lugnuts by hand!
The factory and standard replacement rotors do suck. Due to the rotors being seperate from the hubs and overdrive transmissions (no engine breaking) on our cars rotors work much harder than they used to.
I am able to get replacement ones cheap so I plan on replacement or turning as a standard service(every third or fourth oil change). I have thought of getting aftermarket ones but I am not sure if I can justify it when I get the standard ones so cheap-unless I knew that I would get 30-40K out of them?
If regular are $25-$35 each(front) and aftermarket drilled/slotted ones are $100 each how can you justify one for the price of four?? How many miles can you get out of drilled/slotted ones?
I would try standard replacement and make sure your wheels are torqued right and your hubs are clean.
Good luck!!