MonteHawk

iTrader: (12)

This seems like a great tool. Simple and effective. I saw Horsepower TV use something similar on thier 6.0 refesh with great luck.

My question is, what type of abrasive and grit is best to break cylinder glaze? Maybe a two step course to fine grit would be better with two different grit hones?

What do you guys think?

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2

Roy V.

iTrader: (1)

I believe the grit to be used depends on the ring type. In my case, for a re-ring, I used a 320 grit Flex-Hone because my top ring was a Total Seal moly. About 10-15 strokes and it put a real nice cross-hatch pattern in each cylinder. No need in my case to make it a two step process with different abrasives because it had so few miles on it. Used ATF as a lubricant; coated the hone then the cylinder.

Worked very nicely. Just make sure you scrub the **** out of the cylinders to remove the abrasive when done. I did a before and after bore measurement and nothing was really taken off so they appear to be pretty safe. I have a 4.155 bore and used this Flex-Hone: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-1-8...ltDomainQ5f100

I wasn't comfortable using the next bigger size I purchased. Seemed way too tight to me and choked the cordless drill.

BTW, these things get more expensive with a finer abrasive.

Silverback

How bad are the bores? Honing them to "remove the glaze" is sort of the old school approach, basically giving them 'tooth' to seat the rings. Newer rings are much better designed and a lot of respected machinists that I know swear by _not_ honing bores if they don't need cutting, only honing as a finish step if they had to cut the bores oversized.

MonteHawk

iTrader: (12)

Good call on whether or not to need the hone. My block could use it I think. The factory crosshatch isn't too visible but I have yet to tear it down and clean it really well also.

But I saw this posted by "Palomba" over in the Conversion Hybrids page. It listed on page 71 de-glazing procedures:

Deglazing Procedure
Using a ball type or self centering honing tool, deglaze the
cylinder bore lightly. Deglazing should be done only to remove
any deposits that may have formed. Use a 240 grit stone of
silicone carbide or equivalent material when performing the
deglazing procedure.
A 240 grit stone is preferred for final honing. If a 240 grit is not
available use a 220 grit stone as a substitute.
http://www.pleasurecraft.com/manuals/L510016.pdf

I hope this helps if anyone needs the info. It answered my question perfectly.

Silverback

That seems reasonable, but usually if you don't see much crosshatch left you've got too much wear to really use the same size pistons/rings. When you get it disassembled I would carefully check each bore in a few different places and make sure that the cylinders are both still a reasonable size but also evenly worn.