DrifterFreak210

iTrader: (7)

Ok, just randomly my car starting bitching and throwing a whole bunch of codes.. Iknow what they all mean, but what is it trying to say is wrong?

P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction

And on the reader, it said at the end that:
P0102 Pd and P0803 Pd

I'm guessing that means repeating?

Any help is appreciated.. I have no idea what could have caused the combination of all of them to start at once.
Thanks guys

lowerthanyou00

iTrader: (8)

5 gallons of gas and a match outta fix it.


haha jk im guessing some stuff might have got wet due to the recent weather, u might want to start checking connectors for water. thats all i can think of off the top of my head, check grounds of course too.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Moisture can cause that, but as stated, I would also check the grounds. You have two grounding bolts on the back of the driver side cylinder head and check the grounding strap that goes from the driver side of the block to the chasis.

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Cool bobby you and I get to have fun.. except i know get a p0300.. damn random misfire.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

For P0351-3-5-7 You need to be looking for potentially a bad ground (strap, battery, hold down, or even terminal connector) simply because these codes are only set during a one second event. So if you had a loose connection at any of these points the ecu could store and trigger the code. (In other words in does not take several cycles for these codes to become set) Oddly enough the MAF code could be attributed to ground issues as well but is less likely. If you have a scanner that will provide you live data you need to look at the MAF pid and monitors its cycles per second which should be measured in Hz. At idle it should never drop below 10Hz and if you blip the throttle you should see (on a good scanner w/a quick sample rate) a significant increase in Hz and then a steady return.

DrifterFreak210

iTrader: (7)

I'll check the battery, I know I don't have the battery holder thing, i guess it rotted off the car before i bought it.. I will also check the grounds tomorrow. Thanks for the info guys, i'll let you know how it goes. Also will i have to delete the codes myself to make them go away? or will they go away by themselves?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

They will go away by themselves, or you could also delete them after you check all the grounds and see if they come back.

DrifterFreak210

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so this is what one of the grounds looks like. it has a copper wire hanging out, could this be the problem? i am going to fix it be redoing to solder. should a add tape around it as well?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I would cut off the eyelet, solder some wire to extend it some, and then solder a new eyelet on the end. Then I would test it for continuity with the appropriate sensors (I'm assuming that's the ground for the MAF and o2's). Then I would bolt it down.

DrifterFreak210

iTrader: (7)

Translator?