Question about Wheels Studs and Drag Rims
02-20-2005, 10:45 AM
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Question about Wheels Studs and Drag Rims I'm just doing some final homework on what I'll need to get my drag rim setup up and running. I'm down to figuring out my wheelstud situation.
I plan on running Bogart rims all around which I understand do not actually require the longer studs because of the sizing and how they are made for the f-bddy. They do however recommend a higher tensile strength stud like the ARP 's etc.
My question is that I already have a 9" rear from Moser installed on the TA. I got it with 35 sline axles to ensure it's beefiness. I called them and they said they use high quality studs when they ship their rear ends. Is their high-quality stud the same strength as an ARP stud?
I would hope like hell that it is since they sell racing rears I don't know why they would put a candy-*** wheel stud in but I'd love some confirmation from some fellow f-body guys who have been there and done it.
I don't want to swap them if they are already fine.
- john
I plan on running Bogart rims all around which I understand do not actually require the longer studs because of the sizing and how they are made for the f-bddy. They do however recommend a higher tensile strength stud like the ARP 's etc.
My question is that I already have a 9" rear from Moser installed on the TA. I got it with 35 sline axles to ensure it's beefiness. I called them and they said they use high quality studs when they ship their rear ends. Is their high-quality stud the same strength as an ARP stud?
I would hope like hell that it is since they sell racing rears I don't know why they would put a candy-*** wheel stud in but I'd love some confirmation from some fellow f-body guys who have been there and done it.
I don't want to swap them if they are already fine.
- john
02-20-2005, 12:08 PM
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I think you still need longer studs as the track rules are the stud has to stick out the same amount as the lug. So a 1/2" long lug nut the stud has to stick out another 1/2". So open lug nuts too.
And depending on the power of your car a bigger stud is better I have 1/2" studs on the back of my car now. Oh and screw in studs on the back.
And depending on the power of your car a bigger stud is better I have 1/2" studs on the back of my car now. Oh and screw in studs on the back.
02-20-2005, 01:24 PM
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2FAST4U, are you saying that I would use screw-in type of stud compared to the press in ones? If I used 1/2" studs would there be machining involved on the axles or to the stock wheels if I wanted to run them with the 1/2"'ers.
What power levels are we talking about where this would apply. I'm putting down about 415-420 now and am only thinking of running M/T Drag Radials (no full slicks)
Steve Burger - So they aren't really as strong as an ARP stud? Moser said they were grade-8 studs but I don't know what the ARP's are considered.
I would like to retain the ability to go back to the stock rims or another set of aftermarket street rims so I'm not sure how swapping to bigger studs (and longer) plays into that.
What power levels are we talking about where this would apply. I'm putting down about 415-420 now and am only thinking of running M/T Drag Radials (no full slicks)
Steve Burger - So they aren't really as strong as an ARP stud? Moser said they were grade-8 studs but I don't know what the ARP's are considered.
I would like to retain the ability to go back to the stock rims or another set of aftermarket street rims so I'm not sure how swapping to bigger studs (and longer) plays into that.
02-20-2005, 07:32 PM
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The ARP studs are stronger and longer. I run Weld Prostars for the track and Konig wheels on the street. The extra length just means it takes a little longer to thread the lug on. No big deal. Not sure on diameter.
02-20-2005, 11:13 PM
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1/2" studs ONLY come in screw in. you have to remove your axles to remove the studs but the Moser axles are made for the studs. But my axles had a pressed on sleave that I couldn't get of so I orderd new axles with 3"x1/2" screw in studs on them!
I had 520hp and 600trq with the "stock" size studs. So I would say you are ok. But it is a track rule at some speed I know that!
I had 520hp and 600trq with the "stock" size studs. So I would say you are ok. But it is a track rule at some speed I know that!
02-20-2005, 11:17 PM
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I'm thinking I'll hold off until I actually get the N20 system up and running. Unless "the man" tells me otherwise at the track.
Because if my car runs 13.5's stock I'll run 13.8's, if Nittos are good for 1.7's I run 2.0's so if the new M/T has cut 1.5 I may just get that 1.8 I've been looking for and that can't be all that bad if Moser studs are all NHRA/IHRA approved.
Because if my car runs 13.5's stock I'll run 13.8's, if Nittos are good for 1.7's I run 2.0's so if the new M/T has cut 1.5 I may just get that 1.8 I've been looking for and that can't be all that bad if Moser studs are all NHRA/IHRA approved.