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I haven't been able to get to the track in years, but the last time at the track I tweaked my GTech to pretty much match my timeslips (within a few 100ths of a second) and have then used my GTech since to practice. That day at the track was 100+ degrees, horrible air and running on old street tires so forgive me the horrible ET.
My timeslip GTech comparison:
Later I was able to pull down a 12.9 on street tires on a decent piece of blacktop. At this time the car had a stock long block, Kooks LT headers and high flow cats, FAST 102, DuSpeed OTRCAI, 1.8 ratio roller rockers, 25% UD pulley and a tune.
Then this year I added a TVS2300. This meant I lost my DuSpeed intake and my underdrive pulley, had to go back to a stock crank pulley/balancer for the blower. Also, I was stupid and had a Wix paper filter in the air box. But I improved to 12.6. I recently replaced the intake with a Lingenfelter CAI and I'm sure the output improved noticeably but it has gotten too cold out to get in another timed run. I hope to get to an actual track this coming Spring.
I myself would say you have a 12 second car, and I think most would as well.
But I think the rules here insist on a time slip?
You could touch base with a mod and find out.
I myself would say you have a 12 second car, and I think most would as well.
But I think the rules here insist on a time slip?
You could touch base with a mod and find out.
Well, I put in my request to join the 12 second club but if they deny me because my proof isn't a time slip I get it and that's fair. Hope to get some timeslips next Spring. And even better times assuming the track will have noticeably better traction available. But a 1/4 mile track just isn't that convenient to me so getting there is a rather rare occasion.
maybe you have the belt routing wrong and the blower is spinning the wrong way? just a thought....I mean your mph is slower with the blower than na.....an air filter isnt going to kill 125+ hp. I'd be sick if I spent 7 grand to go the same speed or slower.
Alright...i'm done clowning.....
First off the stock fuel pump isnt going to cut it. You need a aeromotive 340 pump. I'd recommend the bucket upgrade too.
spark plug gap needs to be .028-.030
your afr is waaaaaay to lean by what you said in the other thread. waaaay to lean. 11.5 is the leanest i'd run but 11.2 to 11.4 is ideal. My car likes 11.2 when Im on low boost. On higher boost it likes 10.8
22 degrees of timing is too much past 1psi of boost. you NEED a scanner and and afr gauge
maybe you have the belt routing wrong and the blower is spinning the wrong way? just a thought....I mean your mph is slower with the blower than na.....an air filter isnt going to kill 125+ hp. I'd be sick if I spent 7 grand to go the same speed or slower.
Alright...i'm done clowning.....
First off the stock fuel pump isnt going to cut it. You need a aeromotive 340 pump. I'd recommend the bucket upgrade too.
spark plug gap needs to ne .028-.030
your afr is waaaaaay to lean by what you said in the other thread. waaaay to lean. 11.5 is the leanest i'd run but 11.2 to 11.4 is ideal. My car like 11.2 when I was on low boost. On higher boost it likes 10.8
22 degrees of timing is too much past 1psi of boost. you NEED a scanner and and afr gauge
Look at the wheel spin through first on the the post-blower run. I think that explains the lack of trap speed.
I never mentioned the AFR. When working with the tuner the AFR was rock solid through the entire RPM range, pulling hard, just cruising it was perfect with only very slight variations which corrected very quickly.
I already have a DeatschWerks DW300c fuel pump. Fueling is not an issue, never run out of fuel. The fuel bucket was also modified to keep fuel in the bottom of the bucket at all times.
I misspoke about timing in my other thread (and corrected it there later), it is set at 18 not 22. We went to 22 but saw no improvement so came back down to 18 to be safe.
Look at the wheel spin through first on the the post-blower run. I think that explains the lack of trap speed.
I never mentioned the AFR. When working with the tuner the AFR was rock solid through the entire RPM range, pulling hard, just cruising it was perfect with only very slight variations which corrected very quickly.
I already have a DeatschWerks DW300c fuel pump. Fueling is not an issue, never run out of fuel. The fuel bucket was also modified to keep fuel in the bottom of the bucket at all times.
I misspoke about timing in my other thread (and corrected it there later), it is set at 18 not 22. We went to 22 but saw no improvement so came back down to 18 to be safe.
Plugs are gapped to .025, have been all along.
Man i think you are kidding yourself. One of my pay cara would only trap 1-2mph lower with a 2.0 or high 60ft if I spun. So say you count that as a factor, you still arent even close to where you should be.
Iirc you said the afr was rock solid at 12.7, no?
You mentioned your plugs were at .035, or really you asked if .035 was sufficient...so I assumed........
I must have missed the part about the fuel pump...you should be fine there. I guess the only thing left is the tune or the belt is spinning backwards... (I kid I kid)
Like mentioned previously, if the iat table was left alone...that will kill power...badly. i dont start pulling timing till around 130f iat. the factory tables are usually quite aggressive. The torque management will kill power, but I never delete it all the way....I just turn down how aggressive it is.
Didn't notice that you had a blower.
Kfx guy is right. You seem to be way down on power?
You would have to be spinning the tires to mythical speed/distance to get the trap speed your showing.
Should be running a lot faster than 12’s with a blower… something is wrong here. I’m on board with kfxguy and Danny here. Something’s up if you can’t beat 12 with your setup.
New numbers: 490hp/453tq. We'll see what we can do next Spring.
BTW, had NOTHING to do with the tune. We were choking it down with a paper air filter. The thing really woke up with a better intake system. The only adjustments made to the tune was to add a little fuel since it is now getting all the air it needs/wants. It even did better with the exhaust connected than with open headers, but to be fair the open headers run was done with the pre-existing tune. We couldn't get a good AFR reading with the open headers so we didn't want to adjust the tune in any way and potentially guess wrong. AFR in WOT boost is right at 11.6 all the way through. We could have gained a few my HP by leaning it out, but that would be a bad idea given all the extra heat boost is creating in the first place, don't need to make it worse and risk doing damage for 5 more HP.
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Does this count? 
