Help with oil leak, PCV, RevXtreme catch can
Help with oil leak, PCV, RevXtreme catch can Ok guys, here's the scenario:
I've got a wicked oil leak down the back of the engine, mostly the starter side and it's pouring out and getting on the exhaust. It didn't start until I did two things last weekend -
1. Pulled my intake and replaced the knock sensors
2. Rebuilt the rotted PCV system
When I pulled the intake, the knock sensor holes were full of oil. This was what corroded the connector and caused the rear one to fail, throwing a P0332 code. So I replaced both sensors and the harness. There was oil all under the intake and had soaked the intake gaskets too so I spent a lot of time cleaning this thing up.
I then went and got a socket for the oil sender, the thing is tight and I did not break it when installing the intake. I had to replace the oil pan gasket last year so I don't THINK that is it. The car has 165k on it but it's in very good shape. My only thoughts are:
1. rear main leaking (awfully coincidental and I didn't touch that area)
2. cracked the oil sender
3. screwed up the PCV system, a diagram is below for reference. This seems most likely as I was all over this thing.
Is my PCV routing correct after my rebuild? This seems most likely and I need some help fixing this. The car is really undriveable this way...
What else should I look for?
I've got a wicked oil leak down the back of the engine, mostly the starter side and it's pouring out and getting on the exhaust. It didn't start until I did two things last weekend -
1. Pulled my intake and replaced the knock sensors
2. Rebuilt the rotted PCV system
When I pulled the intake, the knock sensor holes were full of oil. This was what corroded the connector and caused the rear one to fail, throwing a P0332 code. So I replaced both sensors and the harness. There was oil all under the intake and had soaked the intake gaskets too so I spent a lot of time cleaning this thing up.
I then went and got a socket for the oil sender, the thing is tight and I did not break it when installing the intake. I had to replace the oil pan gasket last year so I don't THINK that is it. The car has 165k on it but it's in very good shape. My only thoughts are:
1. rear main leaking (awfully coincidental and I didn't touch that area)
2. cracked the oil sender
3. screwed up the PCV system, a diagram is below for reference. This seems most likely as I was all over this thing.
Is my PCV routing correct after my rebuild? This seems most likely and I need some help fixing this. The car is really undriveable this way...
What else should I look for?
Routing looks good. Based on the fact that the oil was under the intake, I don't think it would be the rear main or the oil pan gasket.
I have heard of an oil pressure sending unit being cracked and leaking oil but is still tight. Try replacing the OPSU and making sure the new PCV lines are securely connected to the fittings on the valve covers.
I have heard of an oil pressure sending unit being cracked and leaking oil but is still tight. Try replacing the OPSU and making sure the new PCV lines are securely connected to the fittings on the valve covers.
Routing looks good. Based on the fact that the oil was under the intake, I don't think it would be the rear main or the oil pan gasket.
I have heard of an oil pressure sending unit being cracked and leaking oil but is still tight. Try replacing the OPSU and making sure the new PCV lines are securely connected to the fittings on the valve covers.
I have heard of an oil pressure sending unit being cracked and leaking oil but is still tight. Try replacing the OPSU and making sure the new PCV lines are securely connected to the fittings on the valve covers.
I agree... I would start with the OPSU
Well, it's not obviously cracked or broken. I'm hoping the seal b/t the metal and plastic housing broke. There is some oil around there on one side, and it's been a couple of days since I drove it. Hopefully that's it. Going to grab a OPSU and will let you guys know.
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Well, the oil leak seems to have stopped - at least it's not hitting the floor any more though I still smell it. Hopefully, just the residue burning off.
I have a new issue, seemingly related. My oil pressure spikes on decel/downshifting. To recap:
Series of events:
Replaced knock sensors
Redid rotted PCV system
Developed huge oil leak
Added Lucas Oil leak stopper
Changed OPSU
Added breather to oil fill cap
Oil leak SEEMS to have stopped (will know more in the AM)
As you can see, there's more than one variable I changed but dang, the oil pressure is running higher on WOT, not crazy highnormally, but it bumps 80 psi on higher RPM downshift/decel situations. It's actually higher then than on WOT runs. Could my PCV routing/vented cap cause this?
Thoughts? Questions? Ideas? Car runs strong and tight still. Oil is Mobil 1 0-40 and a Mobil 1 filter, about 4000 miles on that oil change.
Thanks!
I have a new issue, seemingly related. My oil pressure spikes on decel/downshifting. To recap:
Series of events:
Replaced knock sensors
Redid rotted PCV system
Developed huge oil leak
Added Lucas Oil leak stopper
Changed OPSU
Added breather to oil fill cap
Oil leak SEEMS to have stopped (will know more in the AM)
As you can see, there's more than one variable I changed but dang, the oil pressure is running higher on WOT, not crazy highnormally, but it bumps 80 psi on higher RPM downshift/decel situations. It's actually higher then than on WOT runs. Could my PCV routing/vented cap cause this?
Thoughts? Questions? Ideas? Car runs strong and tight still. Oil is Mobil 1 0-40 and a Mobil 1 filter, about 4000 miles on that oil change.
Thanks!
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Verdad Gallardo Well, the oil leak seems to have stopped - at least it's not hitting the floor any more though I still smell it. Hopefully, just the residue burning off.
I have a new issue, seemingly related. My oil pressure spikes on decel/downshifting. To recap:
Series of events:
Replaced knock sensors
Redid rotted PCV system
Developed huge oil leak
Added Lucas Oil leak stopper
Changed OPSU
Added breather to oil fill cap
Oil leak SEEMS to have stopped (will know more in the AM)
As you can see, there's more than one variable I changed but dang, the oil pressure is running higher on WOT, not crazy highnormally, but it bumps 80 psi on higher RPM downshift/decel situations. It's actually higher then than on WOT runs. Could my PCV routing/vented cap cause this?
Thoughts? Questions? Ideas? Car runs strong and tight still. Oil is Mobil 1 0-40 and a Mobil 1 filter, about 4000 miles on that oil change.
Thanks!
I have a new issue, seemingly related. My oil pressure spikes on decel/downshifting. To recap:
Series of events:
Replaced knock sensors
Redid rotted PCV system
Developed huge oil leak
Added Lucas Oil leak stopper
Changed OPSU
Added breather to oil fill cap
Oil leak SEEMS to have stopped (will know more in the AM)
As you can see, there's more than one variable I changed but dang, the oil pressure is running higher on WOT, not crazy highnormally, but it bumps 80 psi on higher RPM downshift/decel situations. It's actually higher then than on WOT runs. Could my PCV routing/vented cap cause this?
Thoughts? Questions? Ideas? Car runs strong and tight still. Oil is Mobil 1 0-40 and a Mobil 1 filter, about 4000 miles on that oil change.
Thanks!
Thanks, guys! Tracey, thanks for jumping in and giving your feedback on this. Especially adding the vented cap, wanted to make sure I wasn't complicating or reducing the effectiveness. It really looked as though oil was being pushed out the top of the dipstick from the path the oil flow took down the first header primary. That's why I was asking so much about the PCV system to make sure I had it right. I'll tell you what, there was NO visible problem with the OPSU. What a POS design!
I'm going to put it up in the air a bit this weekend and clean it up some more and make sure I got everything fixed and do some more cleaning. Seems to be taking a long time to burn off.
Thanks again, everybody!
I'm going to put it up in the air a bit this weekend and clean it up some more and make sure I got everything fixed and do some more cleaning. Seems to be taking a long time to burn off.
Thanks again, everybody!
hey, check your knock sensor grommets. Mine just went out on my car causing the same thing. Leak down the passenger side, and rear knock sensor bung full of oil. The grommet at the base of the valley pan (in the bottom of the knock sensor bung if you will) was rock hard and leaking. Same deal. Tons of oil under the intake and down the back of the motor.
hey, check your knock sensor grommets. Mine just went out on my car causing the same thing. Leak down the passenger side, and rear knock sensor bung full of oil. The grommet at the base of the valley pan (in the bottom of the knock sensor bung if you will) was rock hard and leaking. Same deal. Tons of oil under the intake and down the back of the motor.
UPDATE!
It was all good for a while, then the breather came loose. Well, I popped a regular cap on there and drove it while the Goop! dried on the breather-ed cap and guess what? Oil leak!! Looked like the same things, seeming to be coming from the dipstick. Put the breathered cap back on and pow! No oil leak. You guys sure my PCV routing is correct? Should I look for a Y instead of the T I have on there? Any other ideas that could be pushing oil out the dipstick sealed but not with a breather?
It was all good for a while, then the breather came loose. Well, I popped a regular cap on there and drove it while the Goop! dried on the breather-ed cap and guess what? Oil leak!! Looked like the same things, seeming to be coming from the dipstick. Put the breathered cap back on and pow! No oil leak. You guys sure my PCV routing is correct? Should I look for a Y instead of the T I have on there? Any other ideas that could be pushing oil out the dipstick sealed but not with a breather?
Can is catching oil. Not sure where to go from here but if I pull off the breather, I generate a BITCH of an oil leak. I just hope I am not masking a bigger, internal problem with the breather...
Doesn't the RevExtreme can have a built in PCV? Just wanted to mention that in case you were running another separate one. PCV valve will rattle if its working.
Also I could have sworn that you should have the clean air side hooked up to the TB, instead of having it capped.
Also I could have sworn that you should have the clean air side hooked up to the TB, instead of having it capped.
1) What year is your car?
2) I assume you put on the LS6 valley cover considering your PCV routing?
3) As state, the PCV valve should rattle unless you went with the LS6 fixed orifice.
2) I assume you put on the LS6 valley cover considering your PCV routing?
3) As state, the PCV valve should rattle unless you went with the LS6 fixed orifice.
Here is what an LS1 with stock PCV routing including a catchcan looks like. What made you plug the connection to the throttle body from the passenger side valve cover?
There is also a diagram similar to this on your driver side shock tower.
There is also a diagram similar to this on your driver side shock tower.