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Literally JUST got done installing Watts Link

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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #81  
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this should work on a tent bolt with a T/A Girdle, right?

I would eventually like to step up to a 12 bolt, so I would also like to be sure it would work with that.

also, I have a general, what's next question.

Here is my current setup:
Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subframe Connectors
BMR Strut Tower Brace
UMI Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
Eibach LT1 Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
Koni Sport 4/3s
BMR Adjustable Lower Control Arms (Rear)
-.75 Degrees of Camber

I was thinking sway bars for sure (considering Strano, UMI, possible adjustable rear), but after hearing all the raving about the watts, I was wondering if I should just try to save up and get this instead.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #82  
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1) I learned a lot from this thread
2) The Watts kit offered by Sam looks awesome
3) Another sweet part to add to my list of wants!!
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 06:30 AM
  #83  
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I had the G2 aluminum double rod-ended adj PHR and LCA's. It was quite noisy and sorta 'clanky' over uneven pavement (which is all too common in san antonio). I switched back to stock LCA's and a non-adjustable PHR with bushings and all the cheap-sounding noises went away.

I'm all for a nice performance suspension, but the noise didn't make it worth the slight weight savings. Would this Watts link be just as noisy on uneven pavement? Would you do the watts link before a sway bar upgrade? (I haven't done sways yet)
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #84  
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The difference between a Watts link and a Panhard bar is not small. The Watts link uses rod-ends, but not cheap ones--rather big Aurora ends, and I have not heard a word yet from anyone about noise. I know on my car it's stone quiet to this point. And the difference in feel isn't little. In short any noise you might get will be less than what you had (most of it probably was coming from the LCA's), but the stability and feel of the rear axle will be much better. While you had a better PHB, you didn't have any better geometry. That's not the case with a Watts link.

As for swaybars: I can't tell you which to do first. That has more to do with what you feel the car is doing. If you want it quicker responding and to roll less, then you'd want to start with bars. If you want the back of the car to be more composed then the Watts link would be higher on the list. Both compliment each other, but can be run separately. But the proper bar set makes tuning with the Watts link easier.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #85  
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Anyone got any pictures from behind the car? I'm just interested in seeing how the watts link stands out.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #86  
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Thanks for the feedback, Sam. You've given me some good info there. I can't think of a time since I've installed the G2 springs and the Koni S/A where it felt like it rolled much in the corners at all. More than anything, it sometimes wants to skip (much less now that I got the konis dialed in better. I attribute that to the overall crappy road surface here in town.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #87  
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Then is sounds to me like a Watts would trump bars at this time.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #88  
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I guessing this works with stock height cars as well as lowered ones?
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by hbgben
I guessing this works with stock height cars as well as lowered ones?
i would have to imagine. im very interested in this. this will definitely be on my list after i upgrade my mids to LT's
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by hbgben
I guessing this works with stock height cars as well as lowered ones?
Yes, it will work with stock height or lowered cars.
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Will not work on the fabricated rears, only "Traditional" axle housings.
What about something like a Moser 9", using the standard ford enclosure?

edit: ignore me, I should read threads before I post
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #92  
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Great read.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 01:08 AM
  #93  
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Worth every cent!
Here's some Watts Link photos on my car.










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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 02:45 AM
  #94  
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that's a pretty good price for all the hardware involved.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #95  
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Great pics 99Blue! I wasn't sure if my aftermarket diff cover would fit after my Watts install, but it looks like it will. Did you do the diff cover before or after Watts install?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by pewter2002
Great pics 99Blue! I wasn't sure if my aftermarket diff cover would fit after my Watts install, but it looks like it will. Did you do the diff cover before or after Watts install?
I put it on long before the Watts-Link, there's plenty of room between the two!
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #97  
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How much does that beast weigh?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #98  
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I've been planning on doing one of these for awhile, but the modding was on hold for awhile. I'd be curious as to the instructions for fine tuning the setup/geometry. I'd like to read up on that while i save up the funds.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by ninetres
How much does that beast weigh?
Not as much as you might think. About 27 pounds in total. But the PHB and brace is replaces is 9 or so. So the difference is about 18 in total, about 10 of which is additional unsprung weight (not all 18).
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #100  
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i've been thinking about getting one soon..but ido drag race dose it affect launching hard. 1.50's so not to hard.
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