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BCM (body control module) replacement
#1
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From: Northern Virginia
BCM (body control module) replacement
Is it feasible for one to replace their own BCM in an LS1 f-body? If so, has anyone done it?
Apparently, mine needs replacing. AFAIK, the only thing not working is the power door locks. Windows, alarm, courtesy lighting, delayed power off, etc. still work fine.
Shop diagnosed the problem and confirmed that it is indeed the BCM, but their cost to replace it is ridiculous at $570.
So, either I replace it myself, or it stays the way it is for the foreseeable future.
Apparently, mine needs replacing. AFAIK, the only thing not working is the power door locks. Windows, alarm, courtesy lighting, delayed power off, etc. still work fine.
Shop diagnosed the problem and confirmed that it is indeed the BCM, but their cost to replace it is ridiculous at $570.
So, either I replace it myself, or it stays the way it is for the foreseeable future.
#2
i dont exactly know what youre asking, if youre talking about the difficulty of the install, i couldnt tell you because I have never installed one and dont even know where it is located. can you tell ME?
if youre talking about the insane price, i would recommend you look on ebay. i frequently see them on ebay for far less than what GM is quoting you.
if youre talking about the insane price, i would recommend you look on ebay. i frequently see them on ebay for far less than what GM is quoting you.
Originally Posted by mbrownin
Is it feasible for one to replace their own BCM in an LS1 f-body? If so, has anyone done it?
Apparently, mine needs replacing. AFAIK, the only thing not working is the power door locks. Windows, alarm, courtesy lighting, delayed power off, etc. still work fine.
Shop diagnosed the problem and confirmed that it is indeed the BCM, but their cost to replace it is ridiculous at $570.
So, either I replace it myself, or it stays the way it is for the foreseeable future.
Apparently, mine needs replacing. AFAIK, the only thing not working is the power door locks. Windows, alarm, courtesy lighting, delayed power off, etc. still work fine.
Shop diagnosed the problem and confirmed that it is indeed the BCM, but their cost to replace it is ridiculous at $570.
So, either I replace it myself, or it stays the way it is for the foreseeable future.
#3
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From: Northern Virginia
I guess my question has several parts.
I know it's located under the dash on the passenger side somewhere behind the glove compartment. My 1st question is, Is there any special initialization or synchronization or programming required that only a dealer can perform? If there is, then the rest of my question is a moot point.
If there are no special procedures required from the dealer, then my 2nd question is, How difficult is the physical removal/replacement of the unit?
As far as price goes, over half of the $570 was for labor, 4 hrs. @ $81.50 / hr.,
plus about $210 for the part, (I can get it for a little over half that on gmpartsdirect), plus 10% of labor added on as some bogus shop charge.
I know it's located under the dash on the passenger side somewhere behind the glove compartment. My 1st question is, Is there any special initialization or synchronization or programming required that only a dealer can perform? If there is, then the rest of my question is a moot point.
If there are no special procedures required from the dealer, then my 2nd question is, How difficult is the physical removal/replacement of the unit?
As far as price goes, over half of the $570 was for labor, 4 hrs. @ $81.50 / hr.,
plus about $210 for the part, (I can get it for a little over half that on gmpartsdirect), plus 10% of labor added on as some bogus shop charge.
#4
I don't think it will be too difficult to replace. It is located behind the glovebox under the passenger dash. Yes the key FOBS do have to be programmed into the BCM to operate it correctly. Also, you will have to ensure that the unit you purchase matches the resistor value in your key to defeat the VATS system. I don't know if GM has different part numbers for BCM's that look for which of the 15 different resistor values or if you would need to get new keys cut with the value BCM that you get. I do believe that you can program the key FOBS into the BCM fairly easy.
#5
No dig meant against "the shop", but I'm always a little wary of any electronics diagnostics performed by someone else on my vehicles. I was almost convinced to replace some electronics in my dash (non-LS1). I realized that a faulty connector was involved. A little bit of jiggling the wires at the specified connector points led me to repair the problem. This saved me $250.
#6
there are just 2 bcm part numbers, one that has keyless entry, the other that does not
the first time it is powered up, and key inserted, it learn your resistance (vats) to lock your key value to the vehicle.
replacement is not too difficult.
there is somebody on ebay who sells them, with the vats disabled, or can match your resistance value, and 2 keyless entry remotes for a easy way to add keyless entry, but this might be a good way to get a used bcm that will work for you, and your existing keys.
programming the remotes is very very easy. pull radio fuse, turn car on/off 5 times, locks lock/unlock, and you hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote until the door locks lock and unlock, and the hatch will pop. repeat for each additional remote. (install university has a great detailed writeup on this part)
Ryan.
the first time it is powered up, and key inserted, it learn your resistance (vats) to lock your key value to the vehicle.
replacement is not too difficult.
there is somebody on ebay who sells them, with the vats disabled, or can match your resistance value, and 2 keyless entry remotes for a easy way to add keyless entry, but this might be a good way to get a used bcm that will work for you, and your existing keys.
programming the remotes is very very easy. pull radio fuse, turn car on/off 5 times, locks lock/unlock, and you hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote until the door locks lock and unlock, and the hatch will pop. repeat for each additional remote. (install university has a great detailed writeup on this part)
Ryan.
#7
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by gMAG
No dig meant against "the shop", but I'm always a little wary of any electronics diagnostics performed by someone else on my vehicles. I was almost convinced to replace some electronics in my dash (non-LS1). I realized that a faulty connector was involved. A little bit of jiggling the wires at the specified connector points led me to repair the problem. This saved me $250.
Problem is power door locks don't work. Problem was caused by me doing some wiring modifications that went awry. No blown fuses. Door lock actuators still are OK. I had done the progressive doorlock mod, which went fine. I also used the freed up channel to make both windows roll down. That went OK. I next tried to add a module to auto-lock the doors when ignition is turned on after 5-second delay, and to auto-unlock once key is turned off. Here is where my luck ran out.
Anyway, there's no way I'm forking over $570 for its replacement anytime soon. I would just live without the power doorlocks. But if I can get the replacement part for $130 or so from gmpartsdirect, and replace it myself, I would. Just hoping someone out there is LS1 land maybe had performed a similar feat and could offer some advice.
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#8
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by slow
there are just 2 bcm part numbers, one that has keyless entry, the other that does not
the first time it is powered up, and key inserted, it learn your resistance (vats) to lock your key value to the vehicle.
replacement is not too difficult.
there is somebody on ebay who sells them, with the vats disabled, or can match your resistance value, and 2 keyless entry remotes for a easy way to add keyless entry, but this might be a good way to get a used bcm that will work for you, and your existing keys.
programming the remotes is very very easy. pull radio fuse, turn car on/off 5 times, locks lock/unlock, and you hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote until the door locks lock and unlock, and the hatch will pop. repeat for each additional remote. (install university has a great detailed writeup on this part)
Ryan.
the first time it is powered up, and key inserted, it learn your resistance (vats) to lock your key value to the vehicle.
replacement is not too difficult.
there is somebody on ebay who sells them, with the vats disabled, or can match your resistance value, and 2 keyless entry remotes for a easy way to add keyless entry, but this might be a good way to get a used bcm that will work for you, and your existing keys.
programming the remotes is very very easy. pull radio fuse, turn car on/off 5 times, locks lock/unlock, and you hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote until the door locks lock and unlock, and the hatch will pop. repeat for each additional remote. (install university has a great detailed writeup on this part)
Ryan.
#10
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by zroc86
I am having same problem with my door locks the power lock wont work but everything else in the car does. it is bone stock. did you end up replacing the BCM yourself?
Other than the key fobs, no special installation procedures were necessary.
#12
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Originally Posted by zroc86
Ok cool. Do you remember about how long it took you?