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VERY disappointed, think it's my fault, cam, see here please

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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 12:26 PM
  #81  
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Good call on the preload Camaroholic. How many turns did it take to torque the rockers down?
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by P Mack
Good call on the preload Camaroholic. How many turns did it take to torque the rockers down?
Yah, a buddy of mine put h/c on his Formula. Power felt a little low, engine sounded like a sewing machine to me. He dyno'd just under 400 rwhp, but still didn't feel right. Did a compression check - 140-150 on the cylinders. Changed from 7.400" pushrods to 7.35" pushrods and compression went to 180-190, dyno HP stayed about the same (just over 400), but he's gone low 11's @ 124 mph now, so the torque is there (this is a full weight car, still has A/C and all that).
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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what al said.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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I like the pushrod idea. How do I find out for sure what size pushrods I should be running?
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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The best way is to get a pushrod length checker ($20) and adjust it till you get the desired preload then read the length. Did you count how many turns it took to go from 0 preload to 22 ftlb?
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:17 PM
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no P Mack.

Insert all 16 pushrods (7.400" is probably needed unless you have highly milled heads or a small cam, in which 7.350" might be needed), place pedestal back on the head, apply locktite to all the rocker center bolts and reinstall all the rockers. Torque the rockers to 22lbft.
Now, using your 24mm socket wrench, turn the motor over by hand (should be difficult as you are now building compression) and make sure the motor turns over by hand a full 720 degrees, then turn it another 360 (doesnt have to be exact or anything).

Go over all the rockers again with your wrench just to make sure they are all at 22-24'ish lbft

Above was from LS1howto.com. That is how I did it. I can quickly pull valve covers off and recheck torque on the rockers. I don't see how that would hurt. Also how do I find out what desired preload is?

Last edited by Michael Ozorowsky; Feb 28, 2005 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:40 PM
  #87  
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Yeah it wouldn't hurt. You don't need to recheck the torque, you need to check the preload. Look at the "yella terra install" instructions on ls1howto if you don't know how, but ignore the part about the shims.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #88  
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If you had a pre load problem you probably would have a backfire when you were on the hammer.As far as diffrent dyno numbers i wouldnt worry about that if you say the car feels like a dog you have to have a problem.Im not 100% that preload is not the problem.You need to get a cylinder leakdown tester and see were your at with these cylinders.You will also be able to back off the rocker to see if it helps seal the cylinder.If it helps your cylinder from leaking your pushrods are to long if i does not help then you have a valve issue.And some hammerhead posted tighting down the heads to stop the leak .People like that scare me.The tricky part is getting the cyl on top dead center to make sure the valves are shut and when you apply air the piston doesn't go down.The easyest way is to have someone turn the motor over at the crank on the bolt.And take a clothes hanger stick it in the cylinder intill its at topdead center.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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Your cranking compression is too low IMO. This leads me to believe the cam timing is off. Your torque doesn't fall off either. It stays flat. These are classic signs of your cams being too far RETARDED. Get a cam degree wheel and find out for sure. You may find you pick up lots of torque and cranking compression by advancing the cam 4-6 degrees. Try this next.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
Your cranking compression is too low IMO. This leads me to believe the cam timing is off. Your torque doesn't fall off either. It stays flat. These are classic signs of your cams being too far RETARDED. Get a cam degree wheel and find out for sure. You may find you pick up lots of torque and cranking compression by advancing the cam 4-6 degrees. Try this next.
I agree,it looks like Cam timing or sealing problem with the valves.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Don, guys, can you tell me in idiot terms how to degree cam? I don't know how other than lining up the dots.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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google is your friend. (actually yahoo has better info)

lots of good info on cam degreeing there, with pics.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
Don, guys, can you tell me in idiot terms how to degree cam? I don't know how other than lining up the dots.
http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.html
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 11:39 PM
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WOW that is a bit much for me. How much do you guys think would cost to have someone do this? Anyone from FLA area wanna help? It SHOULD Be a matter of just lining up the dots perfectly, shouldn't it? My only concern is the rollermaster double roller timing chain I put in, it only goes on one way right? You just put it on the crank one way and line up dots, right? Any advice you guys have I'm all ears, just can't afford to pay another 1K to fix this problem. Would almost LOVE to drop car off at mechanic at this point.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 11:41 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
My only concern is the rollermaster double roller timing chain I put in, it only goes on one way right? You just put it on the crank one way and line up dots, right?
Not exactly. There are like 9 different slots in the crank sprocket for the crank key. You have to line the key up in the slot with the other dot.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 11:52 PM
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Rollmasters have 7 or 9 slots on the lower gear...Each in 2 degree increments like the Ford Motorsports gear sets. If you didn't degree the cam, it could easily be off 5-7 degrees in either direction..Judging by the torque and what I've read, I'd assume at least 3-4 degrees retarded.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
WOW that is a bit much for me. How much do you guys think would cost to have someone do this? Anyone from FLA area wanna help? It SHOULD Be a matter of just lining up the dots perfectly, shouldn't it? My only concern is the rollermaster double roller timing chain I put in, it only goes on one way right? You just put it on the crank one way and line up dots, right? Any advice you guys have I'm all ears, just can't afford to pay another 1K to fix this problem. Would almost LOVE to drop car off at mechanic at this point.


You never answered the question what mode was Sams dyno in? Also like you said just drop the car off and have somebody check it or else use the degree wheel, no shame in asking for help at least you will get you car running right.


You got 3 choices really to figure out whats up.

1. Leakdown
2. Take cam out yourself and check with degree wheel.
3. Have the cam professionally checked out.
4. Check preload

Just pick a step and get started.
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 08:17 PM
  #98  
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another thought: Could lack of fuel be the problem? IE Too small of injectors?
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
another thought: Could lack of fuel be the problem? IE Too small of injectors?
Doubtful. You've received lots of good advise on the board. Have you taken any of it? Nobody said anything about injectors. Those tend to limit hp and torque at the high rpm levels. Your low torque readings are most likely from low cylinder pressure (probably wrong cam timing). Look there and report back to us. Your cam looks like it's way too far retarded.
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2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.

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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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next month, when my wife gets home I'll tear front of motor apart, and then take pictures. That way everyone can see cam is dot to dot.
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