P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Michael, did you forget to plug your MAF in or something? It's pretty much flatlining in that log file you sent me. I'm not saying this is the reason for the low power, but it would help to see how much airflow you're getting.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

oh and while you're on the inconsistency kick. here's 6 runs i just did friday. give you an idea of inconsistency. now this is with a stock converter. all runs made when engine temp sensor read 185*. and again, yes i understand that higer stall converters give higher torque readings due to their multiplication factor and less hp because of the efficiency/inefficiency of it slipping. normally, though you are on a chassis dyno to see what the motor is putting to the wheels. not to see what the motor is putting out at the crank.

run 8 - 5:14:11pm
run 9 - 5:15:47pm
run 10 - 5:17:55pm
run 11 - 5:19:34pm
run 12 - 5:21:15pm
run 13 - 5:25:07pm

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Head gaskets are GM Gaskets. P Mack, the MAF is not plugged in. Running SD Tune. I am going to do a compression check on all cylinders first thing tomorrow morning. ANy info you have for me guys, I am all ears.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Now I'm being schooled on what dyno's are, lol! I agree a stock verter will be more consistant. I've done to many pulls on stalled verters to know they spike and change. So since your the tuning expert, not your words, just your implications, what would change by tuning locked vs unlocked? why would you not dyno locked? your best answer so far is because you don't drive it on the street that way, so what! I do see your point, but I could post up 485 WTQ because of a spike and say thats the number I got, that's not realistic though, more of the TC flashing and you won't get a good smooth graph in my experiance. And yes leveling the playing field is correct, but not for the A4-M6 reason (well partially), more for the fact there is so many different verts out there and you get a more realistic reading of your mods and take out the stall flashing. Anyway, you do it your way, I dyno both ways locked and unlocked. Also gives you a good idea of how efficiant your TC really is.

None of this really pertains to what this thread is, that's why I suggested you take it to PM's instead of the usual thread take overs, I'm off!

Dan

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

You guys think it would be worthwhile to put stock cam back in and dyno to see what gain IF ANY heads gave me???

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

i feel ya bro, my girl when was first in the car used to **** herself, now she knows whats coming and simply leans back in the seat and puts her makeup away hehe, time to fix that!

why are ur plugs gapped at 60?? i thought most guys running cams, were running something like a tr6 if spraying or tr55 and gapping at most .040

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

they're gapped at .060 cuz I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm not spraying yet. Am about to buy a NX kit. But not yet spraying.

PREDATOR-Z

The gap would not affect performance unless you're getting missfires in high comp motors. MO is at 66cc with stock thickness gasket so prolly around 10.0:1 CR, so small gap isn't really warranted.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Compression check is as follows:

Drivers Side Passenger Side
1) 130 psi 1) 145 psi
2) 150 psi 2) 155 psi
3) 130 psi 3) 135 psi
4) 140 psi 4) 150 psi

Note: Goes from front of car (1) to rear of car (4).

tuff

iTrader: (15)

So thers 25 pounds dif between the highest and lowest.By looking at those numbers it looks like you have three under dogs out of eight.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

So tuff, what would that mean? I'm dumb, sorry.

stone4779

iTrader: (2)

Drivers Side Passenger Side
1) 130 psi 1) 145 psi
2) 150 psi 2) 155 psi
3) 130 psi 3) 135 psi
4) 140 psi 4) 150 psi

It means those cylinder aren't sealing 100%

Could be the valve seats, bent valves, bad spring....anyone else?

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

doubtful to be the head gasket but it does happen. More than likely it is the valves. I would check and see with a leakdown what is exactly happening. I know that the angles used on the LS1 valvetrain do differ from that on a SBC, this might be what happened. I don't have the time now, but somebody will probiably chime in with what the stock angles are.

SAM98WS6

Do a search on my AFR post a couple weeks back. My buddies car was low on torque too...380rwtq with AFRs and almost the same cam...
Big glaring thing that stands out...you both have FLPs...and the 2.5 Y restriction

02transhawk

Mike,

Sorry to hear your problems. I read everything, and it seems to me your problem is 100% the heads. I had the same problem with a lt1. I think the guy who orig did my head job messed it up. I didn't look at the specs of your cam too mucu, but a good head guy should know what they are doing. Definately change all the valves/springs/retainers. I would get a set of solid lifters. And do a small port with large intake bowls. Leave the exhaust alone-if you go too big on the exhaust, you loose torque-with an ls1 you need some restriction and back pressure-that could be the problem with the heads. When the heads were worked on, how much porting was done and what were the sizes of the bowls? I hope they didn't overdue it!!!!

The Cylinders are not sealing, just take the headcovers off and take a wrench and to a little torquing, until you get it right. But I would ask about the job that was done to the heads.

I agree the FLP aren't helping, but they are not what the main problem is. I guarantee it is the heads.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Micheal,
I brefly read through there.First on your dyno pull you will need to be in third gear which is D so thats not a problem.You will get it up to about 3500 rpms and floor the car. Now combination is everything.Just because that cam performed well in one car does not mean it will in the next.The correct way to pick out a cam shaft that will best work with your set up is by knowing the flow number on the heads,compression,cubic inch,weight of vehicle,type of tranny and rear gear ratio.
Now with that being said there are quite of few sponsors on this board that has done lots of cam testing on these cars and offer off shelf cams that will work great in almost LS1 engine. But remember if you have this information those sponsors can better help you chose a cam that will complement your set up.
Dave

foff667

iTrader: (2)

another thing to add is that the dyno on the dynojet on pg 5 your af was 14:1@4800rpms and 13.5:1@5000 rpms...i was always told you want to be your richest at those rpms~12.6:1 on a dynojet and then lean it back out slightly after 5200rpms seeing that your combo should make peak tq at around 5000rpms.

TrendSetter

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Who set up your valvetrain? It could be as simple as too long of a pushrod hanging the valves open. I've seen that before. What's the base circle of the cam, the milling on the heads, and the length of pushrods you're using?

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Micheal....its highly unlikely the problem lies with the heads...OR the cam. I have used Felber heads many times and always have seen between 385 and 405 rwtq and HP #s in the range of 420-435 on thier mild heads. This is usually with fairly mild cams as well. Nothing nearly as large as what you are running.

Your problem lies in one or more of the following areas:
*Cam degree

*Tuning...you did your own speed density tuning and as you say...your no expert

*Dyno...Sams dyno can be run in "dynojet mode" or loaded like any normal mustang dyno. How did he run it for you. Dynojet mode is VERY comparable to regular dynojet#s

*problem with the car, plugs, wires, valvetrain issues, whatever. Datalog, check for codes and begin troubleshooting. Also forget the compression test...do a leakdown test.