need to find a new rear end
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From: Yelm, Wa
need to find a new rear end My brother in law suggested I just get a new rear end for my car he either suggested a 9in ford rear end (something I am not really wanting to put in to my car lol) or a nice 12 in that will fit in my car.
anyone know where I can get one built for my car?
anyone know where I can get one built for my car?
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I know where there is a nice 12 bolt out 0f a 4th gen for sale.
We will NOT be giving it away but it will be cheaper then a new one.
It has 3.4xs in it and will take 4th gen wheels
We will NOT be giving it away but it will be cheaper then a new one.
It has 3.4xs in it and will take 4th gen wheels
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From: Yelm, Wa
Originally Posted by silverbullet02
Is something wrong with your stock one or want one just for the heck of it?
Remember this is for a 87 Iroc 355
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From: Bellingham/Edmonds, WA
Originally Posted by krazzycowgirl
Nothing is wrong with it its just with the engine & up graded HP I have a feeling that the stock rear end will not hold up lol
Remember this is for a 87 Iroc 355
Remember this is for a 87 Iroc 355
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From: Yelm, Wa
Originally Posted by Poik
How much power are you looking at? I thought you were running ~14.7 the last time the car ran?
You guys have to also remember that was with street tires & me starting from Idle when I boosted the car up to even 1000RPMs the car went sideways off the line.
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Originally Posted by krazzycowgirl
how much ellis?
but wouldnt 4th gen rear end stick out of the 3rd gen?
but wouldnt 4th gen rear end stick out of the 3rd gen?
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I know where there is a nice 12 bolt out 0f a 4th gen for sale.
We will NOT be giving it away but it will be cheaper then a new one.
It has 3.4xs in it and will take 4th gen wheels
We will NOT be giving it away but it will be cheaper then a new one.
It has 3.4xs in it and will take 4th gen wheels
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
Originally Posted by krazzycowgirl
I was but that was when the car was a stock 350 with the stealth ram on the car now its a 355 wtih the stealth ram on it & the guys that built it said the car MAY go 12s. Will not know for sure until I get the car up & running which may not be until next year, I still have a few K to spend on just the engine alone & the new Computer system that was suggested by Don.
You guys have to also remember that was with street tires & me starting from Idle when I boosted the car up to even 1000RPMs the car went sideways off the line.
You guys have to also remember that was with street tires & me starting from Idle when I boosted the car up to even 1000RPMs the car went sideways off the line.
Not trying to be mean but rarely does 5 ci equal a 2+ second change in ET's.
Originally Posted by AndreS
my feelings on this go back to the old saying:
why fix that which isn't broken?
what breaks in the 10 bolt rear usually anyways?
why fix that which isn't broken?
what breaks in the 10 bolt rear usually anyways?
breaking. 
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Originally Posted by AndreS
my feelings on this go back to the old saying:
why fix that which isn't broken?
what breaks in the 10 bolt rear usually anyways?
why fix that which isn't broken?
what breaks in the 10 bolt rear usually anyways?
1. Replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. This keeps the pinion from being sucked into the ring gear and causing clearance (read: destruction).
2. Add one of the aftermaket rearend support covers. They come with carrier support screws that keep the carrier from moving back and causing clearance (see above). Summit has one for $150.
3. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Dan at Differentials NW can do this.
4. Add C-clip eliminators. Summit has them too. This will keep the wheel in the wheelwell if the axle breaks.
I did these upgrades on the Duece's 8.2 rear and made at least a hundred drag strip passes with the Richmond 6-speed and Nittos. It held up until I got to Mission and tested their legendary traction. The pinion snapped off.
-
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From: Yelm, Wa
Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
I agree. For a lot less than the cost of a new rear, you can upgrade the stocker to handle 12s without much problem. Here's what you need to do...
1. Replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. This keeps the pinion from being sucked into the ring gear and causing clearance (read: destruction).
2. Add one of the aftermaket rearend support covers. They come with carrier support screws that keep the carrier from moving back and causing clearance (see above). Summit has one for $150.
3. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Dan at Differentials NW can do this.
4. Add C-clip eliminators. Summit has them too. This will keep the wheel in the wheelwell if the axle breaks.
I did these upgrades on the Duece's 8.2 rear and made at least a hundred drag strip passes with the Richmond 6-speed and Nittos. It held up until I got to Mission and tested their legendary traction. The pinion snapped off.
-
1. Replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. This keeps the pinion from being sucked into the ring gear and causing clearance (read: destruction).
2. Add one of the aftermaket rearend support covers. They come with carrier support screws that keep the carrier from moving back and causing clearance (see above). Summit has one for $150.
3. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Dan at Differentials NW can do this.
4. Add C-clip eliminators. Summit has them too. This will keep the wheel in the wheelwell if the axle breaks.
I did these upgrades on the Duece's 8.2 rear and made at least a hundred drag strip passes with the Richmond 6-speed and Nittos. It held up until I got to Mission and tested their legendary traction. The pinion snapped off.
-
My order from summit is going to be small this month but WIth it the engine will almost be complete & ready to in stall then I get the TC & the pulleys when we are down in Reno. Doing an engine on a really tight budget (only a couple 100 a month is madding) So as I said before the car is another year out.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
I agree. For a lot less than the cost of a new rear, you can upgrade the stocker to handle 12s without much problem. Here's what you need to do...
1. Replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. This keeps the pinion from being sucked into the ring gear and causing clearance (read: destruction).
2. Add one of the aftermaket rearend support covers. They come with carrier support screws that keep the carrier from moving back and causing clearance (see above). Summit has one for $150.
3. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Dan at Differentials NW can do this.
4. Add C-clip eliminators. Summit has them too. This will keep the wheel in the wheelwell if the axle breaks.
I did these upgrades on the Duece's 8.2 rear and made at least a hundred drag strip passes with the Richmond 6-speed and Nittos. It held up until I got to Mission and tested their legendary traction. The pinion snapped off.
-
1. Replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. This keeps the pinion from being sucked into the ring gear and causing clearance (read: destruction).
2. Add one of the aftermaket rearend support covers. They come with carrier support screws that keep the carrier from moving back and causing clearance (see above). Summit has one for $150.
3. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Dan at Differentials NW can do this.
4. Add C-clip eliminators. Summit has them too. This will keep the wheel in the wheelwell if the axle breaks.
I did these upgrades on the Duece's 8.2 rear and made at least a hundred drag strip passes with the Richmond 6-speed and Nittos. It held up until I got to Mission and tested their legendary traction. The pinion snapped off.
-
Add to this the fact that every year if you race it you will STILL need to have a new set of bearings in it and if you are running a PR every other year you will need a ring and pinion
Lets face it the rear end was designed for a Vega and a four cylinder. By the time I got my 12 bolt I have spent over $3k on my ten bolt.
This rear end is for sale with a heavy heart from the owner who needs money to pay bill's and will have to be replaced at a later date but that is how life revolves.
We are asking $1,800 or resonable offer. We will ONLY sell local and ONLY to an Automatic car. If you have a stick you need a 9in or a Strange Dana SD60.
You can buy a new stripped down Spool Unit for $1,790 PLUS shipping. This unit has the HD Eaton and is set up for TCS/ABS. Buyer can ride in car before buying.
Yeah, 9 inch or 60 in a 6 speed. I learned my lesson, the exspensive way.
Now the Trans Am is retired, becuase all I have in their is the 10 bolt, altough recently it has held up to some spirited (read N20) driving...
Now the Trans Am is retired, becuase all I have in their is the 10 bolt, altough recently it has held up to some spirited (read N20) driving...
cool thanks for answering the question.... 
for my swap car i may end up throwing a ford 8.8", 9" or mopar 8.75" in it eventually anyways. I believeI don't have to cut down a maverick 9"(if i can find one)... but i could be wrong.
for my swap car i may end up throwing a ford 8.8", 9" or mopar 8.75" in it eventually anyways. I believeI don't have to cut down a maverick 9"(if i can find one)... but i could be wrong.