I know the sail panel speaker issue has been beat to death. I've been through so many searches my head hurts from all the confusion. Since not everyone bothers to set up a "sig", noting what they drive, they ramble on giving advice and only to find out later that they don't even have the same car .. fact, camaros and firebirds have different Monsoon set-ups. 2ohm / 4ohm ... the where and at what ohm rating is vehicle specific. Most know this but to new or new to speaker replacement in these cars aren't quite sure (unless they pullled their speaker already). Am I frustrated? You bet!

I tried a set of Infinity Kapa 62.7i's in my sails .. BAD speaker for that location in a T/A (I'll just replace my door speakers with these now). I soldered just the long wires and taped off the short ones. The volume and clarity aren't anywhere near what the factory speakers are. I had one of each in and did a sound test .. NO comparison .. factory! Of course there's no dependability with factory subs so .. the quest for a quality replacement continues.

With all the available space in the sail location and no one having a SIMPLE cure for to deal with the wide open space, I considered a free air sub. The one I could find (Kicker SSMB6, I think it was) has already been beat down in here by someone so. I've hear JL's mentioned .. but I saw someone mention because the speaker would be basically running "free air", it would rupture at high volume levels. (???)

Any suggestions for a replacement in this location would be welcome. Preferably by someone who KNOWS what they would sound like in a T/A!!!!!!!! Because of all the technical issues involved in replacing a speaker in factory location with factory power equipment; .... No guessing here folks .. I'm looking for facts!

FYI for those who haven't sorted it out yet .. T/A Monsoon system is 2ohm doors and the sail and rear decks are 4ohm <-- so say the speakers in my 02 T/A! The sail speaker has "4ohm/4ohm" printed on it.

 

I think this is described in the frequently asked questions thread but here are the speaker setups by model:

Camaro
Door speakers are 6.5S (6.5" oversize or 6.75") mid and tweeter that are separate components but mounted coaxially. The mid is 2-ohm powered by the amplifier and the tweeter is 4-ohm also powered by the amp.

Sail panels have 6.5S single voice coil subs running at 2-ohms off the amp.

Hatch speakers are 4" mids running at 4-ohms off the head unit.

Firebird
Door speakers are components mounted separately - a 6.5S mid running off the amp at 2-ohms and a dome tweeter running off the head unit at 4-ohms.

Sail panels have 6.5S dual voice coil subs at 4-ohms wired in parallel to produce a 2-ohm load for the amp.

Hatch speakers are components mounted separately - a 4" mid running off the amp and a tweeter running off the head unit. Both the tweeters and the mids run at 4-ohms.

 

I'm planning on sail panel oem replacement for my TA ernie guzinman GM dealership) has them $40. shipped. good guy to deal with.
did you ever get you're tunning issuses straightened out?

 

I'm beginning to think, dollar for dollar, that may be the best option. The best I heard yet anyway.

Yeah .. I took it to C.A.M. and Jeff Creech dyno tuned (#'s in my sig) it and got it running good! No more two footin' it .. lol. He was able to get another 11hp / 10 rwtq. I'm guessing the handheld could have been able to match those numbers if it were on a dyno when they tuned it. Going by the settings on the programmer and what Jeff told me he had done to it. **Not sure if it would have been able to correct the idle issue though**

 

I thought the amp just drives the subs and the mids in the doors, while h/u runs all the tweeters and the 4" mid in the hatch at 4-ohm for the firebirds

 

Is this ea. or for both?

 

Here's the wiring diagram. Note that the tweeters are tapped into the wires running from the head unit to the amp and the mids run off the amp.

Interesting though...the diagram shows the mids as 4-ohm which is what most people find there even though the specs call for 2-ohm speakers.

 

I pay a tiny bit less, talk to Chris he's good to do bussiness with.

I bet the car is much more fun the drive now that it's tuned correctly.

was it just the tune I remember you where thinking the TC was defective?

Was VHP any help to you at all?

 

With all those "issues" in the factory system ... I'm really considering making plans to replace EVERYTHING .. starting with the HU! ..lol I appreciate the wiring diagram .. nothin' but fact there!

If you have his # handy .... post it up, I think I'll go that route until I get past my engine mods and encase anyone else wants to go the re-engineered GM route.

It was in the tune.

VHP (Joe) was great .. more than willing to help. My plans include a more radical cam + a head swap .. so I opted for a professional dyno tune to get an accurate baseline. Now I get all my future tunes for a modest price and since more power was in my plans, it was definitely my best option.

 

I know the car is new to you please learn how to handle the power you have before you consider upgrading HP. I learned power sliding at a young age on bikes and know my limits which are none because I am a expert driver an rider at extreme speeds (including 110MPH + wheelies for extended times not just pop ups I'm talking up then shift wot stuff not for weak hearts.
so I'm not scared of extra power.

I would rather hear you enjoying the car compared to hear you being a satistic. please learn the power and how it handles.

stock reengineered OEM sail panels & any OEM speaker available at ernie guziman a GM dealership ask for Chris 1-866-899-6185 mention me BADMFKR
you may get a $ reduction. good southern people to deal / expect quick delivery.

Thanks

 

Sweet! I'll give him a call today! (these Infinity's aren't doin' squat, to speak of, in the sails!!!!!)

My normal driving habbits just don't require much practice (I drive it like I do my Tahoe ... avoiding tickets!!) .. avoiding curb rash being the execption. My goal's will be summed up at the the track (1/4 mile) .. knowing the the dyno numbers help.

As for enjoying the ride .. WHEN I do get a chance to drive it, I'm as happy as a puppy with 2 peeters! .. and the experience is just as rewarding!

 

Please don't take insult at this, but are you 100% sure you have the infinities wired up in correct phase?

They really kill each out if you swap the polarity on one driver.

 

no offense taken ... the 1st step in troubleshooting is sort out the obvious, always ("assume" nothing!)

As long as red is + and black is - .. then polarity is right. The infinity's have the - and the + on them. I soldered the red to the + and black to the -.

Was that done correctly?

 

I got factory replacements for the sails .. $42ea. and they will be hard to beat in the T/A's!

The Monsoon is no real "system" but it'll do until I can replace EVERYTHING!

 

Throw some kicker midbass 6.5/6.75" speakers in there and call it a day.

 

did you get them from chris at

ernnie
guzman

he's good to deal with I just replaced another sail to.

 

Just got done replacing my entire stock system. I couldn't be happier with it now. After a ton of research I figured the two choices would be to keep it all stock, or trash it all - it is tough to go in between. The only thing factory I still run is the wiring to the speakers in the factory harness.

-Geoff

 

i have alpine type R's 6&1/2 co-axials mounted in the sails and they are bangin', course they have 75W RMS going to them but still...

 

'97 TA Monsoon

I have replaced all my speakers excpt for the hatch tweeters.

The sound is very clear and strong.

Thanks to a recommendation from here I went with mid-base Pioneer Premier TS-M7PRS. I found a good open box buy on Ebay. These are 4 ohm just like the TA originals. These speakers will not vibrate the coffee in the car next door but drive just hard enough for me.

They have a great sound when wired right. Since the sails are DVC each speaker has two pairs of wires. Try both but do not connect both. When you clip the wires off the original speakers one pair will be longer than the other. While someone here recommended the long wires, the short ones worked better for me. Just tape over the ones you do not use. These Pioneers will bolt right in to the original speaker mount.

Those Kappas sound great in the doors, BTW. I have them there. I also put in 4" Alpine SPS-10C2s in the hatch. Some will say don't bother. But they seem to add some depth to the sound from the rear and sound great with the hatch open.

Now as long as I can keep from frying them I am very happy with the results.

My 2cents.

 

Yeah, I got with Chris and hooked me up. Thanks for the info.!

IF, I blow these before I get an entire system installed .. I might try the Kickers.

I'll replace my door speakers with the Kapa's .. I hate to waste the tweeter but the factory front tweeter runs at 4 ohms. When I put the entire system together, that won't be a concern though ... ha ha!!