i kinda gave up on drilling the front of the oil pan because ill have to reduce the -10 to a -8, so i decided ill just drill and tap the side like ur supposed to.
so i go over to drill the side and i cant get a drill iin there, theres no run to drill the side while its on the car! what am i supposed to do? theres no room for even an air drill. if i unbolt the pan will it lower down more??

 

This might work...since you dont want to drop the pan, DeWalt sells a right angle drill, but that may be like the air drill you described. Personally, due to possible metal contanimation, I'd prob lift the motor and drop the pan.

 

i drilled several at the front end.....on the bottom. I drill with a drill bit covered in grease/vaseline....take a qtip or pipe cleaner full of vaseline or grease...bend it so it can reach all and any aluminum chips.....tap with grease covered tap...repeat with qtip and thats it....always seems way worse than it actually is. OH....always done this on the car...no biggie

 

I have to agree with pulling the pan ... I have drilled two previous oil pans for oil return bungs with the pan on the car. One didn't have any issues, but the second spun a cam bearing less than 10 miles after the job - shaving was embedded in the bearing . Did the whole 9 yards - grease coated drill bit and taking it nice and slow.

 

the problem is i cant take the pan off, i cant lower the kmember, i dont really know how. maybe ill get a scavenger or pay someone

 

pull the pan. do you have an engine hoist?

 

no, but it will cost me prob. 300 to get the pan taken off by a shop or 300 for a scavenger pump. and a hoist will cost 90 bucks, so techinically i do have one. how hard it is with a hoist?

 

Can the engine be jacked up by the bell housing rather than using a hoist?

 

holding all that weight up on cast aluminum is probly not the brightest idea... could break.

 

I would definatly take the pan off

 

I wouldn't do it by the bellhousing. I've done it with a hoist before its not that bad. If I remember correctly dissconect two front brake lines from abs block,four shocktower bolts,swaybar,steering shaft,motormount bolts,6 k member bolts. I think should be it,just watch out for small harnesses for front wheels. Keep a jack under the k too.I don't think I missed anything

 

cant you just drain the pan... unbolt it.... unbolt the motor... and use a hoist to put the motor up enough to wedge the pan out?

 

Yea, just thought maybe someone might have tried it already...

 

also have done it with the pan on the car. the pickup screen is fine enough i wouldnt worry about chips though. using a right angle drill and a shortened bit as mentioned above. i drill and tap using lots of grease like said above. but also leave out the drain plug and use the garden hose and run about 3-5 panfuls of water through the pan, let it trickle through cause the alum tends to kinda float on the water, and fill-drain/fill/drain till no more shavings come out. youd be suprised how many chips ive gotten out doing this. also change the oil about 5 minutes of runtime. And dont say im an idiot for putting water in the pan or your ****** retarded, its covered in an oil film and hardly any water sticks to it, also reason for the immediate oil change.
Gary

 

I would probably use the old oil to wash it out instead of water..but thats me

 

i don't think there's enough room to pull it up to clear the pickup tube.

 

they tapped the pan with my pan still on. use plenty of grease on the tip and do it slow. change oil a couple times. hopefully you have the magnetic drain plug to grab some of the loose particles.

not the best or safest way but it can be done. preferably you know it is better to take the pan off. good luck.

 

Just take the pan off. You don't need a hoist or any other fancy tools. Here's your instructions:

1. Raise the car and support safely on jack stands
2. Drain the oil
3. Take the front wheels off.
4. Detach the brake line brackets from the side of the front subframe behind the wheels, so the K-member can drop without bending up the lines.
5. Remove the nut from the long bolt in each motor mount.
6. Place your floor jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to keep from marring the pan up. Lift JUST enough to get the stress off the motor mounts.
7. Remove the motor mount bolts.
8. Support the motor with a jackstand under the crankshaft pulley. No, you won't bend the crank. Those supercharger guys put more stress on the crank with their belt tensioner than you will supporting your motor.
9. Remove the six bolts holding the K-member to the front subframe of the car. BEWARE -- the K-member will want to drop a bit, make sure it doesn't hit you in the head or other area of your body sensitive to being hit with solid metal objects. The K-member WILL NOT hit the floor, because you have not unbolted the shocks. It will only drop a few inches -- but that's all you'll need. Just keep yourself clear and don't hurt yourself, ok?
10. Unbolt the oil pan and remove.

Installation is the reverse obviously, and you can either lift the K-member back up by hand, by a friend's hand, or with the floor jack. The stocker is pretty darned heavy, so you'll probably want to be lazy and use the floor jack so its easier to get the first couple bolts back in. Its easier than you might think, I don't see why anyone would want to leave the pan on the car when its relatively easy to take off.

 

Magnetic drain plug isn't going to work on aluminum.

 

You forgot to mention unbolting the steering shaft. The k-member won't drop far enough with the steering shaft still connected.