Parts are starting to arrive, so I figured I'd post this up to see if there were any caveats I haven't come across with this setup. Patrick G estimated my SCR would be 11.3 and DCR would be 8.87 pending the actual cam doctor numbers and accuracy of guessed numbers (below). Some have voiced their concern that the cam selection will be peaky.

What I have:
LS1 block, clean-up bore, balanced stock crank, Eagle 6.125" rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco -2cc pistons (guessing - they have valve reliefs and a small dome on top). Using a longer than stock balancer bolt due to fubar'ed threads. LS6 valley cover conversion, LS6 intake w/ removed rear crossover coolant lines, etc. SLP ported oil pump. Grotyohann headers, cat'ed y-pipe, SLP D/D cat-back, 3.73 gears

What I'm guessing on until the heads come off:
deck clearance: guessed .006" above deck
Piston head cc's

What I've received:
- TSP PRC 5.3L Stage 2.5 heads, milled to 59cc, 2.02/1.57 valves
-- PRC Platinum dual springs (145/390 spring pressure, rated at .660 lift)
- Cometic .040 gaskets
- ARP head bolts
- NGK TR6 plugs (will gap to .045)
- Water pump gaskets
- Timing cover gasket
- Timing cover seal
- Balancer bolt (yet another spare, came in package)
- Cadillac CTS-V Racing lifters

What I've ordered but not yet received:
- Center-bolt valve cover conversion hardware from an LS1Tech member (but nothing for valve cover PCV connections, tubes, etc)
- Patrick G spec'd 227/235 .639/.646 110+2 cam on LSK lobes (will be cam-doctor'ed). Requested an Autox/roadracing profile and specified I'd be shifting at 7200 to take advantage of gearing

What I plan to order:
- QTP race headers
- Magnaflow 59929 high-flow cat's
- Custom exhaust from headers to SLP D/D
- Current pushrods are not stock but unknown length. I have a Comp pushrod length checker which I hope to use to confirm the correct length. Do I need 'thicker' pushrods due to the lobe lift, etc?

What I haven't ordered and am undecided upon:
- Injectors & rocker arms (both are my original OEM '98 units)
- Timing chain: considered using a LS2 chain but I hear it's a pain to swap the chain. Maybe I'll order an adjustable timing set if the cam degreeing says I need one.
- Poly motor mounts

Some other questions:
- Will it be safe to ride the rev limiter for a few seconds to avoid shifting?
- How difficult will this be to tune? I'm using OL/SD with my current cam.
- Will there be any street manners which I may consider unruly?
- Guesstimates on what the torque/power bands will look like?
- Antyhing else I should be considering?

Thanks!

 

sounds nice post up vids when done.

 

Sounds a lot like me but with a better bottom end and a SLIGHTLY bigger cam.

Get the LS2 timing chain, its a simple replacement. Keep your stock timing gears if they aren't worn.

Stock rockers, rebuilt by Harland Sharp for $250ish so they don't fall apart.

I also recommend going to a 38# or 42# injector. I went with 30's and am wishing I went bigger now. They're enough for what I want now, but would recommend to start with bigger.

I also suggest going with the poly motor mounts, or maybe even the solids. I've debated going to Spohn's solid setup. A lot of people are saying they don't notice a huge increase in NVH much if at all.

Expect to spend some time tuning, but it should drive very well on the street. Mine drives very well for just having 3 pulls during a dyno tune session... I just wish the bottom end was looked at better (low-rpm, low-LV8 stuff).

 

Get me the head flow numbers and i'll try to run it through Dynosim to see what it gives for horsepower and torque.

Hammer

 

I have both Dynosim and Engine Analyzer Pro. Neither models custom cam ramp rates well, but overall I like EAP better.

I think I read that there is a chain dampener available from GMPP? I might pick that up as well.

 

Received the cam today...

 

I punched those cam pro plus numbers into EAP, and it's telling me I have 5.6* of advance, not the 2* we requested. I was supposed to be at 11.3/8.8 compression with just 2* of advance. Should I be concerned?

Edit: Thunder said they can cam doctor a cam 5 times and get 5 slightly different sets of numbers. The rest of the numbers look pretty close, though

 

Looks like +2* to me. 110 + 2* = 108 intake center line and 112 exhaust.

 

It seems as if it's using the .050 centerline numbers to calculate advance instead of at the seat.

 

I think the lobes are asymmetrical, causing .050" lift numbers to be off centerline. The report shows the correct specs at .006 lift.

 

Damn Jim... you opened that rusty old wallet wide open, didn't you.

 

Actually, no since they're 'budget' heads instead of the AFR's or TFS's. But it's been awhile since I opened the motor by choice

 

looks like you have a 110.3LSA with +2 advance.

Hammer