FK'N Valve tick won't go away! Lifter preload?
Day 3 = 20 minutes.
Got passenger head off and lifters out.
It took 3 hours and 20 minutes to remove lid, intake, sensors, rockers, pushrods, heads, headers and lifters and everything in between.
Got passenger head off and lifters out.
It took 3 hours and 20 minutes to remove lid, intake, sensors, rockers, pushrods, heads, headers and lifters and everything in between.
I wasnt going to bother reading this entire thread but here is my 2 cents.
I just helped out a guy that thought it was pushrods causing the tick so we pulled the pushrods and they were straight, so then he thought it was a collapsed lifter so we pulled those out too. We got the lifters out and one of the rollers was all chewed up so i told him the cam is surely chewed up too. So we pulled that out and that one lobe was chewed up too. So now he bought a new cam, lifters, and pushrods. that chewed up roller was causing all that noise.
Just an FYI for ya.
I just helped out a guy that thought it was pushrods causing the tick so we pulled the pushrods and they were straight, so then he thought it was a collapsed lifter so we pulled those out too. We got the lifters out and one of the rollers was all chewed up so i told him the cam is surely chewed up too. So we pulled that out and that one lobe was chewed up too. So now he bought a new cam, lifters, and pushrods. that chewed up roller was causing all that noise.
Just an FYI for ya.
Has anyone thought about using the GM Performance parts lifters specifically designed for the CTS-V race team? I thought they were roughly $235 from SDPC.com and were engineered to be stable up to 7800rpm using high lift cams with heavy duty valve springs.
I'd look into those if I had a lifter issue.
I'd look into those if I had a lifter issue.
The lifters and cam look fine. Nothing chewed up on the lifters or its rollers. They almost looke new. The cams base circles and lobes looke fine.
I hope it is a collapsed lifter issue. The LS7s should be here Monday or Tuesday.
Thanks for everyones $.02 It is greatly appreciated.
To be continued.............
I hope it is a collapsed lifter issue. The LS7s should be here Monday or Tuesday.
Thanks for everyones $.02 It is greatly appreciated.
To be continued.............
Originally Posted by jub jub
Looking at the head, I would think that particular cylinder is running lean.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 4
From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
I have a lifter problem since the block was rebuilt & TSP heads installed, we thought it was an oil pressure problem even though a TSP ported pump was used,so the standed pump was shimmed then installed,still sounded like a ballpen hammer on steel with 2 lifters bleeding out,my only fix was to change the oil,it would go quiet for approx 1000 kms then start banging again then dropping cylinders.
Put the standed lifters back in but it still did it, this has only been an issue since fitting TSP heads!!
TSP cam only,the car run brilliant. I have had over a year of this **** trying to get it sorted.
Should put my standed heads back on and see what happens.
Put the standed lifters back in but it still did it, this has only been an issue since fitting TSP heads!!
TSP cam only,the car run brilliant. I have had over a year of this **** trying to get it sorted.
Should put my standed heads back on and see what happens.
I feel your pain. TSP has given me every answer they "guess" it might be but never really investigated and got back to me. It has cost me more money playing thier guessing game than anything. If if is not the lifters I will be pissed and will write a lenthy article on them.
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
I feel your pain. TSP has given me every answer they "guess" it might be but never really investigated and got back to me. It has cost me more money playing thier guessing game than anything. If if is not the lifters I will be pissed and will write a lenthy article on them.
i know it can be frustrating, but i'm confident it will be fixed.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
It is very difficult to confirm issues like this. Look at yourself with everything off and you are still unnable to confirm what it is. TSP (or any other sponsor) are not Harry Potters, unless they do the install, you can't hold them responsible in any way.
i know it can be frustrating, but i'm confident it will be fixed.
i know it can be frustrating, but i'm confident it will be fixed.
Last edited by -=Modified=-; Mar 10, 2007 at 01:14 PM.
After doing more reading I hope it is not a spun rod bearing. Reading others simular noises and circumstances that is what it may be as well. I hope the hell not.
There was another guy that had the same noise at around 3k rpms and that is what it turned out to be.
There was another guy that had the same noise at around 3k rpms and that is what it turned out to be.
Originally Posted by jub jub
I would think with a spun bearing you would have low oil pressure.
Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
a spun or spinning bearing will usually make a squeking noise too
Praying it was lifters! Still waiting on the new ones to arrive.
bad lifters. Got everything back together and we are not able to preload stock lifters.
The rockers we torqued to 28ftlbs (TSP suggestion) and we are still able to spin the pushrod (7.425).
WTF now? I don't want to start the car with the pushrods not tightly secure. Will the hydrolics in the lifters make up for the gap? Torqued at 28 we can spin the pushrod but not as easy as it was before. They are definitely touching the rocker and lifter but there is not a lot of pressure on the two.
The rockers we torqued to 28ftlbs (TSP suggestion) and we are still able to spin the pushrod (7.425).
WTF now? I don't want to start the car with the pushrods not tightly secure. Will the hydrolics in the lifters make up for the gap? Torqued at 28 we can spin the pushrod but not as easy as it was before. They are definitely touching the rocker and lifter but there is not a lot of pressure on the two.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
read post #3
Ya know a simple $20 pushrod checker tool would have alleviated all of these problems. I really wonder why many people overlook proper pushrods as a critical part of the valvetrain in the first place and always wind up getting some short *** ones..BTW 28lbs is little more than what is called for, 22 Lbs.
Last edited by brad8266; Mar 27, 2007 at 07:00 AM.
11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15
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My Tick Went Away When I Did This... Check this out.
During my maggie/cam install, I developed a persistent TICK coming from the vacinity of #7 (rear drivers side) of my LS1. My installer tore my engine apart 2 or 3 times trying to diagnose and pinpoint the problem. After many, many hours and the process of eliminating (& REPLACING) all the "obvious" things... nothing worked.
We were able to calm the tick down a bit but it never went away completely. The tick would develop after putting the car under load on the street for a couple miles, but when you'd stop and let it idle for about 60 seconds, the tick would go away.
Just like you guys, the tick was very loud, sounded like a bad lifter, and was easily discernable from the common "sewing machine" sound... it was very obvious, annoying, and aggravating.
Then... we found this: http://www.pistonslap.com/tsb/020601038.htm
What was happening was: The bad o-ring was allowing air into the oil path and since #7 is the first cylinder to receive oil, it was getting most of the air bubbles and the lifter was not pumping up completely.
I've been hammering on my engine for the last 4 months and NO TICK WHATSOEVER!!!!!!!!!!
Needless to say, my speed shop bought a bunch of O-rings and changes them out every time an LSx engine comes in for performance work!!!
Hope this helps!
During my maggie/cam install, I developed a persistent TICK coming from the vacinity of #7 (rear drivers side) of my LS1. My installer tore my engine apart 2 or 3 times trying to diagnose and pinpoint the problem. After many, many hours and the process of eliminating (& REPLACING) all the "obvious" things... nothing worked.
We were able to calm the tick down a bit but it never went away completely. The tick would develop after putting the car under load on the street for a couple miles, but when you'd stop and let it idle for about 60 seconds, the tick would go away.
Just like you guys, the tick was very loud, sounded like a bad lifter, and was easily discernable from the common "sewing machine" sound... it was very obvious, annoying, and aggravating.
Then... we found this: http://www.pistonslap.com/tsb/020601038.htm
What was happening was: The bad o-ring was allowing air into the oil path and since #7 is the first cylinder to receive oil, it was getting most of the air bubbles and the lifter was not pumping up completely.
I've been hammering on my engine for the last 4 months and NO TICK WHATSOEVER!!!!!!!!!!
Needless to say, my speed shop bought a bunch of O-rings and changes them out every time an LSx engine comes in for performance work!!!
Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Jason, I tought of somehting last night after I got home. We should be very careful using the longer rods w/ a thinner head gasket. Maybe we should install the shorter rods.
When the oil pressure is bumped up, we might have a PTV clearance issue that we might not have w/ a 'dry engine' before we start it..
When the oil pressure is bumped up, we might have a PTV clearance issue that we might not have w/ a 'dry engine' before we start it..