brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Or just do it the foolproof way and buy a pushrod legth chedcker and take the measurement and then add .075 of preload to that to get the exact size pushrod you need.

Damn the checker is only $20 Why play guessing games and "what if's'" when yu can just do the actual measurement and the guess work is gone?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^If we are unable to achieve 0 lash, what good will the checker do? We have tried every combination. Maybe we should have done this the first time, but I think we would have nailed down the problem by now. The rods spin no matter what we do.


Oil pump pickup O rings? I did the oil pump on th car in question and I reinstalled the O ring w/ the pickup tube. It seated in there purfect.

Your theory makes a lot of sense, but how would it relate to the driver's side # 3 or 5 cyl? -Serious Q, not being a wise ***.

georgiarocker

I'm just regurgitating the info as it was presented to me. I'm not an experienced wrench-turner. But, I sat back and watch as the "pros" agonized over and over again and the O-ring replacement worked. You said you "reinstalled" the o-ring??? My original looked okay too, but the new replacement o-ring was noticeably beefier. Or, perhaps the oil path of your LS1 isn't the same as mine, i.d.k. but, when all else failed to fix the "tick", replacing the o-ring was the only thing that worked so I thought I'd pass the info along. Good luck!

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

Well Rich what do you think?
The car is already on the jack stands. I can get a pushrod checker today and possibly a new oil oring.

The symptoms that GeorgiaRocker expalined are the same I have. It is definitely the piston right in front of the driver.
I am willing to take his suggestion with a grain of salt and try it. The water pump will have to come off after all. (we took the head off with the steering pump attached and put it back on the same way just to avoid the dreaded Meziere)
We were just taking a short cut. The EWP isn't hard at all.
So we take the EWP, timing cover and oil pump out. Looks like I will definitely need a new crank bolt now.
That is the worst part. Oh and the underdrive pully which is not that hard to do either.
I will get everything tore down today.


Great link if this is the case:
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro

2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette

2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird

2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2003 GMC Sierra

with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).

Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.

Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
(F and Y Cars)
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

(C/K Trucks)
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

the checker is adjustable so it gets longer, if you use one you will be able to get to zero lash. try it out.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ yeah I suppose... THe checker it is then..

Jason, it's on you man. It's your call and your wallet.

.... Neutral progress w/ this car... This better fix the friggin problem... THat oil pump is such a friggin PITA to deal w/, although this will be the third time I've messed w/ it... So I should be used to it by now... At least we can keep the heads on...

My uncle didn't even mention the oil pump pickup O ring.. Funny thing too, there were no gaskets for the oil pump to engine block. I used a VERY LIGHT coating of RTV.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

The bolt is $4 the Oring is $4 and the pushrod length checker is $20. I think I can afford that if prevents less headaches in the future.
Think of it as a learning process. Plus, if I am the second person to figure this out from the many that are having this issue what a godsend it will be for all with this issue....and I know there are quite a few out there.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ Pluss we can use the checker for my cam swap.. A tool investment.. I suppose.. I'm just as frusterated as you at this point in the game..

We'll get it done this weekend. or do small steps thru the week and finish it on fri or sat..

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

There are no gaskets where the iol pump mounts to the engine because it is just a mount point there is no fluid going through there.

When you use the checkr just hand tighten the rocker then make the checker small and set it on the lifter and swing the top end under the rocker and then twist the checker and it will get longer, each turn is .050 in length. Turn it unitl there is no lash anymore, you are then at zero lash. Take the checker out and add up how many turn you made and mulitply by .050 and then add that to the closed length of the checker(I dont remmeber that number off hand). Then take that number and add.075 to it to account for the lifter preload you need. Then you have your needed length.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^Or just MIC up the overall length? or add the MIC'd Halves?

What I'm also wondering is how far down can that lifter plunger be pushed? Will it bottom out? Won't that add a significant length to the reading. When I was tightening the rockers, I would tighten one down and this particular one the valve was open.... Anyway, I would watch the valve open then the lifter would then compress under the stress of a 'dry' lifter and no oil pressure.

It takes a lot to compress that lifter plunger. These are also brand new. I guess it was just bleeding down. THere was also the lifter spring pressure. I could turn the rod, but it was slightly more difficult than the stock engine. But I could still turn it.



I'm getting really frusterated with this whole thing...

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

The oil passes through where the pump mounts to the block. In from the p/u tube and out into the blocks oil galleys. There are no gaskets b/c it is a flat machined surface, and if it leaks a little it goes back into the pan anyway. No rtv or gaskets required on the oil pump mating surface.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

I just ordered Comp Cams PN# 7702-1 (Pushrod Lenght Checker)
Once I get it I will go from there.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

We'll at the very least get everything from water pump to oil pump off.
The prlc should be here Friday if it is FedEx, Sat if UPS.
Once I figure out the length I need I will be able to get the right PR by next week sometime.

kukri

iTrader: (9)

Gentlemen,

Here's my "similar" story.

Started off with stock LS1..nothing ticking etc..

1st Upgrade:
231/237 TR Cam
LS6 Heads
LS6 Oil Pump
Stock Length TR Titanium Pushrods 7.400
Dual Springs of course..
Stock rocker arms

Car ran good. It did tick sometimes. It would only tick when I'm cruising under 2000 rpm. When I keep the revs up no ticking.

2nd Upgrade:
Magic Stick 4 Cam
PRC Springs, same stock length TR pushrods 7.400
Stock rocker arms still
LS2/LS7 Lifters (AC Delco) from TSP

Unfortunately I didn't soak the lifters in oil before putting them in. Anyhow, car never ticks when its cold. Took a trip today, cruised at 3000 rpm no ticking. As soon as I shift to 5th and drive 1800-2000 rpm here it comes again. This time after cam swap it does it everytime I drive the car. It seems like I have the same problem and not a spun rod bearing because:

-Good oil pressure
-No power decrease
-Only ticks when warm at low rpm


I'm very annoyed and looking forward to your results.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Your pushrods are too short first of all.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

I think so too.
I may have to go 7.45 or higher. I will post as soon as my pushrod length checker gets here.

Damn all the I I I, "I" am starting to sound like Tyra Banks.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Good stuff, the checker will not lie to ya, just be sure to add lifter preload to you measurement to get your needed PR length.

LOL @ the tyra comment.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

I ordered the Comp Cams Pushrod Length Checker 6.800-7.800.
It has the measurements on the dial.
Let me make sure I have this right.
1. I dial the checker in to zero lash at the rocker and lifter.
2. Add .075 to the number on the checker to account for the lifter preload you need
3. Number on the dial + .075 = the lifter size I need?

I hope to hell I don't have PTVC issues when I am done.

The head gaskets are GM# 12498543

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

yeah the checker is 6.8 at the smallest point, lets say it takes 15 turns to get to zero lash, each turn is .050 fo you would have (.050*10) + 6.8+ lifter preload .075= 7.375 required PR length.

Just be sure the rocker nut is only hand tightened and that you do not preload the lifter with the checker which isnt going to happen anyway if the lifter is already filled with oil. The lifter plunger is tough to push when the lifter is full of oil so it wont be easy to preload it, which is good.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

I hope the new lifters have oil and they did not bleed. I soaked them for about 4 hours before the install. :prays: