TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

would really like modified to answer post #150 for me please......

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

Sewing maching sound is normal considering the lift. I still get it. Its nothing to worry about. It is just the rockers doing thier job. If it is really loud then I would start to worry about too much preload (PRs too long).
I used 7.350s

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

I guess it is normal, my buddy has a 2000 T/A, with a 242/242 for the lift and his is dead quiet

If i were to get LS7 rockers, would that benefit me at all... beside like 5 rwhp???

lol measeure the base on that cam from the pic.. i think you can LOL tell me if i am suing the right PRs

kukri

iTrader: (9)

FYI

I only swapped O ring and the problem went away. Didn't mess with pushrods, didn't mess with lifters.

I still wonder about pushrods, if I should even try swapping to 7.350.. I mean TSP recomments stock height with MS4..sounds fine, regular sewing machine sound..

2000KnightRider

iTrader: (21)

I have a slight clacking (when you stand in front of my car it sounds like its centered in the vicinity of the intake) coming from my engine and its RPM repetitive. I have the TSP Tqr 2 cam, 7.4 PR's, LS6 heads with Patriot duals milled .015, GM OEM head gaskets and LS7 lifters. I didnt touch my oil pump or timing chain. Would I need to get longer (7.425) or shorter (7.350) PR's to solve the "clacking" sound. The engine really started the valvetrain noise after 2 of my valve springs snapped and I replaced them with Patriots (for that I took out my PR's and returned them after I put the new springs in) My car doesnt seem to have any power loss whatsoever.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Best way to know is to measure using a push rod length checker , summit has them for $20.

C5B

Very valuable thread.... even got the o-ring ticking info here. I went through this whole issue about a month ago, and seem to have the wrong length pushrods, working great through

Here's the scoop:

Heads are milled .020 (I am told)
Thunder Racing 220/220/553/553/LSA114 with -.050 Base Circle under stock LS1 (Center to Heal is now .025 smaller)
Stock Head Gaskets
Stock Lifters (69,000 miles on them)
Stock pushrods are 7.4"

Verbally, the math goes like this: Cam got physically smaller, so pushrod need to get longer (7.4 +.025 = 7.425). Heads were milled, though, so pushrod gets shorter (7.425 - .025 =7.405).

BUT, the folks who sold me the heads said I would need 7.35 pushrods. 7.405 was the math, so I split the difference between the 7.35 and 7.4 and installed a .020 shim under the rockers and reused the 7.4 pushrods (just as a test to see where I stood - didn't have a pushrod length check tool at the time). Started it up and the valvetrain noise was horrible. Since all the valves were noisy, I figured the math must have been closer to being right, so I pulled the shims.... MUCH quiter, but then some heavy ticking that started after the oil was up to temp.... CLASSIC sign and was due to oil-pump o-ring (which I had reused - didn't know you HAVE to replace it)... fixed that and things got much quieter until oil-temp reaches around 200 degrees. At that point, I have a light ticking in cylinder #1 area. Only happens around 1500-2000 rpm (consistent with A LOT of others' ticking). Oil pressure is normal. Idle at oil-temp of ~200 degrees, pressure is around 38-40psi and is steady. Bring it up to 2000 rpm, and the pressure goes up to 50... 3000rpm, 60psi..... just like it was before.

So here's the odd part. I get the pushrod length check tool and it comes to: 9.5 turns. 9.5 * .050 +6.8 +.075 = 7.350!!!!

Even odder: been running this way for about a month. Dyno runs up to 6500 rpm, and have 370whp, with just heads and cam ( I mean BONE stock everywhere else).

BTW, I thought .100 was the preload we're supposed to have, not .075?

Engine is strong, but now I am confused on the right length of pushrod to get. I recall other threads suggesting .100 as the preload, not .075, so that would put me at 7.375.

Can someone explain, or confirm that .075 is the right preload for stock lifters?

And last, if the noise is only from one cylinder, I am leaning towards it being a lifter issue..... I can accept that but argh, don't want to redo them

- Colby

C5B

Ok, well, just put in the 7.350 pushrods that I bought when I started all this and the noise got better. Still not great, but definitely acceptable until I can replace with Caddy Racing lifters.

Damn, I wonder what gives here. Maybe the valve length is funny or something..... that's one part of the equation that is unknown to me.

Moral of my experience, though: Anyone considering this should have the pushrod length checker... for sure!

Another problem solved by that thing!

- Colby

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

A buddy of mine was telling be about AFR head with simular specs thatn PRC1s and they are virtually quite. I went with PRC1 for cost per HP.

fauslpss

iTrader: (6)

I have the same issuse as posted by mod. I reinstalled the o-ring not thinking it needed to be replaced. I will get this and let you guys know. I did notice that there were small air bubbles in the top of the head. And it is the #7 rocker that is noisy and not priming correctly.

Eric

CranMaro99

iTrader: (10)

So yes, I'm bring this back from the dead for a reason:

So this thread (as many others) sort of verifies that a loud lifter-like ticking after a cam swap has to do with poor oil flow via bad or weak o-ring from the oil pump. Good thing for threads such as this, because prior to that people kept taking apart the engine thinking the lifters were bad or the pushrods the wrong length and never finding the cure!

So if I ever do a cam swap, I plan on replacing the oil pump at the same time for preventative cause. Is this all that is needed (assuming the o-ring is installed/seated correctly)? Or should I order a different (larger?) O-ring as the ones that come with oil pumps stock may be the culprit?

Just making sure...

JZ28

iTrader: (3)

The stock O-ring is what you need. It is a good idea to replace it every time you have to remove the oil pump, they are like $2. It's not a problem with the o-ring itself, the problem is when it is not seated correctly, just keep an eye on it when you are putting the oil pump in and you will be fine. I learned this one the hard way.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

I haven't been on here in years due to deployments, moving ect. Yes the ORing is the cure for the ticking noise. You need a thicker than stock. I think I posted a part number somewhere.

I still have my car going on ten years next month. For its 10th bday its getting its 2nd paint job and I plan on getting around to doing roller rockers to rid the ticking noise.

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

I wish someone had video or a sound clip of what this O-ring ticking sounded like.