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FK'N Valve tick won't go away! Lifter preload?

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Old 04-10-2007, 12:00 AM
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Did you try to prime the oil system? -=Modified=-'s engine was noisy as hell when he first fired it up after the first install.

Remove the ignition relay (under the hood), crank the engine till oil pressure builds. After we repalced the O ring, it built oil pressure almost INSTANTLY...
Old 04-10-2007, 01:07 AM
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Just FYI Rich.
I diagnosed a bad O2 sensor - got it replaced.
The oil pressure sits at 70psi now
Old 04-10-2007, 02:14 AM
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Huh.. Bad O2 eh? That's odd.. I guess it couldn't handle the POWAH!!!
Old 04-10-2007, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blacksi
Hey guys, quick question. I just installed a trex with 921 duals. I've only run it for 20 or 30 secs and it was very noisy. Will this possibly go away once the motor has run for a while, or should it instantly be quiet? I am going to pick up a new belt tomorrow and was hoping once it warmed up that maybe the lifters would fill or what ever. stock heads with 7.4 PR's recommended by thunder racing.

If I didn't touch the oil pump and never had noise before, is it safe to assume it's not the oring?
The valvetrain will be noisy for a minute after you first start it. Let it run to warm up at least once. BTW 7.4 PR's sounds like too short a rod with a TREX cam.
Old 04-10-2007, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by blacksi
Hey guys, quick question. I just installed a trex with 921 duals. I've only run it for 20 or 30 secs and it was very noisy. Will this possibly go away once the motor has run for a while, or should it instantly be quiet? I am going to pick up a new belt tomorrow and was hoping once it warmed up that maybe the lifters would fill or what ever. stock heads with 7.4 PR's recommended by thunder racing.

If I didn't touch the oil pump and never had noise before, is it safe to assume it's not the oring?
Get a pushrod length checker and follow the appropriate measuring steps.
I went though 3 different sizes tsp recommended then got tired of thier guessing game. With out having the car infront of them that is all they can do, is guess.
If you are getting a sewing machine noise and decent oil pressure there is no need to worry about the oring. If you are getting a loud knock then I would go ahead and try the new oring and maybe new lifters.
Old 04-10-2007, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
Get a pushrod length checker and follow the appropriate measuring steps.
I went though 3 different sizes tsp recommended then got tired of thier guessing game. With out having the car infront of them that is all they can do, is guess.
If you are getting a sewing machine noise and decent oil pressure there is no need to worry about the oring. If you are getting a loud knock then I would go ahead and try the new oring and maybe new lifters.
Exactly what he said. These guys played the guessing game enough times. Just get the PR checker and get it right the first time. I recommend that anyone that is going to change anything in the valvetrain always use one to verify valvetrain geometry.
Old 04-10-2007, 11:03 AM
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Default Hmmmmmmmmmm

i used the 7.425 pushrods with my tr224 cam . Was that a bad idea? i have stupid good oooil pressure about 65 warmed up and buried at start does seem to have little more noise the the stock cam and pushrods but the fuking thing runs great . Should i go back with the 7.400?
Old 04-10-2007, 12:04 PM
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^ huh??

ok.. Lemme see if I can get this. You installed a tr224 w/ 7.425 pr's. Buried at start? It pegs to 80+? Mod's car did that too, but it went back down to 60. It only did it once. Is that right? A little more sewing machine noise is normal. Once it starts getting loud, that BS flag should shot up, and you should be concerned.

What size head gasket?
Old 04-10-2007, 01:02 PM
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OK now ya'll lost me. I thought somebody said that because the MS4 used LSK lobes on intake I believe and XERs on exaust that you would need two different length pushrods for a correct setup. And would the 7.375 work better in this instance than the 7.350s? I mean somebody said to add .075 dfor preload and he added .050? I'm not trying to shoot holes in the post just trying to understand it better because I just put together a MS4+LS6 PRCs cut down to .59cc chambers and I'm running the .040 cometics. I reused the pushrods from TSP that came with my TV2 I use to run and I don't even remember what length they were.
Old 04-10-2007, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NC98Z
OK now ya'll lost me. I thought somebody said that because the MS4 used LSK lobes on intake I believe and XERs on exaust that you would need two different length pushrods for a correct setup. And would the 7.375 work better in this instance than the 7.350s? I mean somebody said to add .075 dfor preload and he added .050? I'm not trying to shoot holes in the post just trying to understand it better because I just put together a MS4+LS6 PRCs cut down to .59cc chambers and I'm running the .040 cometics. I reused the pushrods from TSP that came with my TV2 I use to run and I don't even remember what length they were.
yep it does use 2 different lobes, 2 different PR's would be ideal. The intake PR's should be .0225 longer.
Old 04-11-2007, 06:28 AM
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Thanks for the help guys, I started mine up the next morning expecting to hear that nasty sound again. To my surprise it was all gone and I've got a sewing machine with good oil press. I am bone stock gasket and head wise and 7.4 is what thunder racing recommended and it seems to sound fine on my 243/249 .613/.618 110 lsa.
Old 04-11-2007, 12:20 PM
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So, Beyer and Modified, you have solved the problem? Replaced lifters and O ring and the problem is gone?
Old 04-11-2007, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kukri
So, Beyer and Modified, you have solved the problem? Replaced lifters and O ring and the problem is gone?
They measured for and installed the proper size pushrod too.
Old 04-11-2007, 12:23 PM
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Ok then looks like I'm pulling heads for the 3rd time! which head gaskets did you gentlemen use?
Old 04-11-2007, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kukri
Ok then looks like I'm pulling heads for the 3rd time! which head gaskets did you gentlemen use?
I used a set of cometics, spray them with 2 light coats of copper spray and torque em down to spec.
Old 04-11-2007, 12:36 PM
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well nm i now see the posts that list all part numbers etc
Old 04-11-2007, 01:03 PM
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Well I really really really don't feel like pulling heads again. Reason I would pull the heads is to replace the lifters that I just put in!!! Why? Because I didn't soak them in oil...just straight out of the box..into the block.

Thinking about just replacing the O ring and getting right length pushrods, what do you guys think what is the chance of my lifters being dead?
Old 04-12-2007, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kukri
Well I really really really don't feel like pulling heads again. Reason I would pull the heads is to replace the lifters that I just put in!!! Why? Because I didn't soak them in oil...just straight out of the box..into the block.

Thinking about just replacing the O ring and getting right length pushrods, what do you guys think what is the chance of my lifters being dead?
I wouldn't bother pulling the heads for that. I pulled mine due to possible faulty stock lifters.
You will definitely need the right sized pushrods. THe oring makes a huge difference. My oil pressure shot up from 57psi to 70psi at idle.
Old 04-12-2007, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kukri
Well I really really really don't feel like pulling heads again. Reason I would pull the heads is to replace the lifters that I just put in!!! Why? Because I didn't soak them in oil...just straight out of the box..into the block.

Thinking about just replacing the O ring and getting right length pushrods, what do you guys think what is the chance of my lifters being dead?
Call the lifter manufacturer and ask them what rust inhibitor was used. If they say it is oil soluble, I would just pull the valve covers and shoot some oil down by the pushrods, then pull the ign fuse and crank it until full oil pressure is reached for a good 5 to 10 seconds before you start it.
Old 04-12-2007, 09:21 AM
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Thanks. I'm looking to swap the O ring and already ordered pushrod length measurer.


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