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FK'N Valve tick won't go away! Lifter preload?

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Old 03-05-2007, 03:56 PM
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:30 PM
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Ready Bayer?

TSP wasn't willing to make me any kind of deals considering the situation so I went elsewhere to buy. I am not hating but very frustrated. Would I do it all over? NO!

All GM Parts.
*12498543
GSKT KIT (0.056")
1
$34.22

*12498545
BOLT KIT
2
$34.94

*12499225
LIFTER (LS7)
1
$99.74

$208.48 shipped aint bad.

The '09 will not be modded when I get one!!!
Old 03-05-2007, 05:20 PM
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99.74 for LS7 lifters isnt bad. hmmmm im thinking about going with those
Old 03-05-2007, 06:50 PM
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Huh...

YEah.. THis was NO normal Ticking. It was borderline knocking sound. It was fine till it warmed up.. Then..... KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK.

We installed th PR's, then TQ'd them W/ the valves closed. We could still spin them, like MOD said. We were also able to lift the rocker tip off the valve stem tip.

I REALLLLLY hope this solves it. I just want this damn thing to run normally and ready to go on cruises this summer...


And to anyone who is looking into getting this cam, it doesn't like to cruise at low RPM's. We were easy on it... A couple small pulls at 40mph in second = rear end kicking out. (after we FIRST got it running) 3000 rpm ~ish.
Old 03-05-2007, 10:08 PM
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Might as well count the time it takes to do a lifter swap.

Day 1. 1 hour flat
Got the filter, lid, maf, bellows, entire intake with all hoses and valve covers off

Tommorow is heads and maybe headers.
Old 03-05-2007, 10:54 PM
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Damn, good thread! I am going ported LS6 heads, LS6 intake, LS7 lifters, PRC dual valvesprings and a T-rex. I am also going trick flow 7.400 chromoly (sp?) rods. Wuold I need to get new valveseats and seals as well? The LS6 heads in question have < 100 miles on them, they JUST came off an '07 C6. Would I be ok to reuse the seals, seats, and locks?
Old 03-06-2007, 02:12 AM
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If you want, I've got a BRAND NEW comp cams adjustable pushrod length checker that I'll sell to you and overnight it for 30 bucks. (add 3% for paypal) Hell, the overnight will cost me 20 of the 30..
You can have it wednesday morning.

This will eliminate all of your guess work.

Shoot me a PM or email.
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
Might as well count the time it takes to do a lifter swap.

Day 1. 1 hour flat
Got the filter, lid, maf, bellows, entire intake with all hoses and valve covers off

Tommorow is heads and maybe headers.
Old 03-06-2007, 05:12 AM
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The other issue could be some small dirt particles. I was very very very careful when I did my head swap and I also installed Morel lifters. I was fortunate enough to have a borescope from work so I went into each lifter bore to check prior to installing the lifters. Despite my be so careful I did find a small particle of MLS gasket in the oil gallery just waiting for me to start up the car. It might have caused a noisy lifter or worse a spun bearing.
Old 03-06-2007, 07:48 AM
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Well let me add my .02. I had the same nasty clacking sound so I swapped my lifters with a set of Mellings. Melling is noted for their outstanding oil pumps so I thought their lifters would be outstanding as well. Put the new lifters in and car ran quiet for the first few hundred miles or so. Then I got on it and the clacking is back just as bad as ever.

I don't know if it's the stiff springs, XER lobes, or what, that is collapsing the lifters. Anyway, I have a new engine that's going in and I will probably switch the lifters to a brand that can withstand the pressures exerted by these aggressive camshaft designs.

BTW, there is a school of thought that says the lifter bores expand to the point where the lifters can no longer maintain pressure and allow bleed down. This theory has merit and would be grounds to go with a solid roller.
Old 03-06-2007, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jub jub
BTW, there is a school of thought that says the lifter bores expand to the point where the lifters can no longer maintain pressure and allow bleed down. This theory has merit and would be grounds to go with a solid roller.
Makes perfect sense. I think that is what is happening to my stockers. I am going to try the LS7 lifters and see if they can withstand the pressure. If not a solid roller may be the way to go. It is strange situation, TSP claims they have never seen this kind of trouble with this combo. I beg to differ as I have read numerous threads on numerous different sites on this exact issue. Ninty plus percent of the time it was due to failing stock lifters. I guess some people get lucky and others not so.

I wish I listened to one guy that said "think of buying better lifters as an insurance. Damn he was so right. Now It is costing me an extra $150 for new bolts and gaskets just to take the heads off and reinstall due to lifters.
Old 03-06-2007, 11:22 AM
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Another way to maybe overcome this situation is with a high volume, high pressure oil pump. If it wasn't such a pain to swap, it might be worth a try.
Old 03-06-2007, 11:40 AM
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From what I understand when the Morels were developed, there were many oiling issues that were discovered during testing of GM lifters on aftermarket cams that influenced their final design, which overcomes the problems they discovered.
Old 03-06-2007, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jub jub
Another way to maybe overcome this situation is with a high volume, high pressure oil pump. If it wasn't such a pain to swap, it might be worth a try.
During the swap I put in a TSP LS6 ported oil pump. Not really high volume but does the job.
Old 03-06-2007, 08:47 PM
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Day 2 About two hours.

Got all got all rockers, pushrods and lifters out. Also got the drivers head off. It would have taken a shorter amount of time but the bottom front bolt on the head was a bitch even with the y pipe cut twice to make room to move the headers around. Probably spent 40 minutes on that damn bolt.
Old 03-06-2007, 10:39 PM
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Are you going to put in the larger pushrods? Anything look abnormal?
Old 03-06-2007, 11:27 PM
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Mine still ticks even after i put the new lifters in. This is the reason that there is no way in hell I am doing a cam swap in my vette. I kinda wish i wouldn't of done it on the trans am. I guess if it blows then I'll do it differant next time.
Old 03-07-2007, 12:45 AM
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Then your preload is wrong. There is always a little tick, I mean they are never totally quiet, but they do not have to sound like a sewing machine either.

On my 370, I'm running Comp 850-16 lifters, heads are 5.3L shaved ,.025, .050 gasket and I have 7.400 p-rod (Comp cam XE-R 232/234) with what I call a quiet valvetrain on a LS1.
I can actualy hear the injectors over the valvetrain.
Old 03-07-2007, 01:09 AM
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Well is what i need to bet me back to the factory preload is a 7.438. I have the 7.425 because if I went with the 7.450 I thought it would be too much preload. So I was stuck in the middle so i went less rather than more.
Old 03-07-2007, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Then your preload is wrong. There is always a little tick, I mean they are never totally quiet, but they do not have to sound like a sewing machine either.

On my 370, I'm running Comp 850-16 lifters, heads are 5.3L shaved ,.025, .050 gasket and I have 7.400 p-rod (Comp cam XE-R 232/234) with what I call a quiet valvetrain on a LS1.
I can actualy hear the injectors over the valvetrain.
You sir, are very fortunate!
Old 03-07-2007, 11:32 PM
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What do you make of these two valves (on the right). I think that where the knocking noise was coming from.







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