FK'N Valve tick won't go away! Lifter preload?
#61
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
Jason, I tought of somehting last night after I got home. We should be very careful using the longer rods w/ a thinner head gasket. Maybe we should install the shorter rods.
When the oil pressure is bumped up, we might have a PTV clearance issue that we might not have w/ a 'dry engine' before we start it..
When the oil pressure is bumped up, we might have a PTV clearance issue that we might not have w/ a 'dry engine' before we start it..
Damn the checker is only $20 Why play guessing games and "what if's'" when yu can just do the actual measurement and the guess work is gone?
#62
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^If we are unable to achieve 0 lash, what good will the checker do? We have tried every combination. Maybe we should have done this the first time, but I think we would have nailed down the problem by now. The rods spin no matter what we do.
Oil pump pickup O rings? I did the oil pump on th car in question and I reinstalled the O ring w/ the pickup tube. It seated in there purfect.
Your theory makes a lot of sense, but how would it relate to the driver's side # 3 or 5 cyl? -Serious Q, not being a wise ***.
Originally Posted by georgiarocker
.........................
What was happening was: The bad o-ring was allowing air into the oil path and since #7 is the first cylinder to receive oil, it was getting most of the air bubbles and the lifter was not pumping up completely.
I've been hammering on my engine for the last 4 months and NO TICK WHATSOEVER!!!!!!!!!!
Needless to say, my speed shop bought a bunch of O-rings and changes them out every time an LSx engine comes in for performance work!!!
Hope this helps!
What was happening was: The bad o-ring was allowing air into the oil path and since #7 is the first cylinder to receive oil, it was getting most of the air bubbles and the lifter was not pumping up completely.
I've been hammering on my engine for the last 4 months and NO TICK WHATSOEVER!!!!!!!!!!
Needless to say, my speed shop bought a bunch of O-rings and changes them out every time an LSx engine comes in for performance work!!!
Hope this helps!
Your theory makes a lot of sense, but how would it relate to the driver's side # 3 or 5 cyl? -Serious Q, not being a wise ***.
#63
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
Oil pump pickup O rings? I did the oil pump on th car in question and I reinstalled the O ring w/ the pickup tube. It seated in there purfect.
Your theory makes a lot of sense, but how would it relate to the driver's side # 3 or 5 cyl? -Serious Q, not being a wise ***.
#64
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well Rich what do you think?
The car is already on the jack stands. I can get a pushrod checker today and possibly a new oil oring.
The symptoms that GeorgiaRocker expalined are the same I have. It is definitely the piston right in front of the driver.
I am willing to take his suggestion with a grain of salt and try it. The water pump will have to come off after all.
(we took the head off with the steering pump attached and put it back on the same way just to avoid the dreaded Meziere)
We were just taking a short cut. The EWP isn't hard at all.
So we take the EWP, timing cover and oil pump out. Looks like I will definitely need a new crank bolt now.![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
That is the worst part. Oh and the underdrive pully which is not that hard to do either.
I will get everything tore down today.
Great link if this is the case:
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
(F and Y Cars)
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(C/K Trucks)
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
The car is already on the jack stands. I can get a pushrod checker today and possibly a new oil oring.
The symptoms that GeorgiaRocker expalined are the same I have. It is definitely the piston right in front of the driver.
I am willing to take his suggestion with a grain of salt and try it. The water pump will have to come off after all.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
We were just taking a short cut. The EWP isn't hard at all.
So we take the EWP, timing cover and oil pump out. Looks like I will definitely need a new crank bolt now.
![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
That is the worst part. Oh and the underdrive pully which is not that hard to do either.
I will get everything tore down today.
Great link if this is the case:
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
(F and Y Cars)
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(C/K Trucks)
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
Last edited by -=Modified=-; 03-27-2007 at 10:44 AM.
#65
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
^If we are unable to achieve 0 lash, what good will the checker do? We have tried every combination. Maybe we should have done this the first time, but I think we would have nailed down the problem by now. The rods spin no matter what we do.
.
.
#66
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^ yeah I suppose... THe checker it is then..
Jason, it's on you man. It's your call and your wallet.
.... Neutral progress w/ this car... This better fix the friggin problem... THat oil pump is such a friggin PITA to deal w/, although this will be the third time I've messed w/ it... So I should be used to it by now... At least we can keep the heads on...
My uncle didn't even mention the oil pump pickup O ring.. Funny thing too, there were no gaskets for the oil pump to engine block. I used a VERY LIGHT coating of RTV.
Jason, it's on you man. It's your call and your wallet.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
My uncle didn't even mention the oil pump pickup O ring.. Funny thing too, there were no gaskets for the oil pump to engine block. I used a VERY LIGHT coating of RTV.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 03-27-2007 at 12:16 PM.
#67
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
^ yeah I suppose... THe checker it is then..
Jason, it's on you man. It's your call and your wallet.
.... Neutral progress w/ this car... This better fix the friggin problem... THat oil pump is such a friggin PITA to deal w/, although this will be the third time I've messed w/ it... So I should be used to it by now... At least we can keep the heads on...
My uncle didn't even mention the oil pump pickup O ring.. Funny thing too, there were no gaskets for the oil pump to engine block. I used a VERY LIGHT coating of RTV.
Jason, it's on you man. It's your call and your wallet.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
My uncle didn't even mention the oil pump pickup O ring.. Funny thing too, there were no gaskets for the oil pump to engine block. I used a VERY LIGHT coating of RTV.
Think of it as a learning process. Plus, if I am the second person to figure this out from the many that are having this issue what a godsend it will be for all with this issue....and I know there are quite a few out there.
#68
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^ Pluss we can use the checker for my cam swap.. A tool investment.. I suppose.. I'm just as frusterated as you at this point in the game..
We'll get it done this weekend. or do small steps thru the week and finish it on fri or sat..
We'll get it done this weekend. or do small steps thru the week and finish it on fri or sat..
#69
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There are no gaskets where the iol pump mounts to the engine because it is just a mount point there is no fluid going through there.
When you use the checkr just hand tighten the rocker then make the checker small and set it on the lifter and swing the top end under the rocker and then twist the checker and it will get longer, each turn is .050 in length. Turn it unitl there is no lash anymore, you are then at zero lash. Take the checker out and add up how many turn you made and mulitply by .050 and then add that to the closed length of the checker(I dont remmeber that number off hand). Then take that number and add.075 to it to account for the lifter preload you need. Then you have your needed length.
When you use the checkr just hand tighten the rocker then make the checker small and set it on the lifter and swing the top end under the rocker and then twist the checker and it will get longer, each turn is .050 in length. Turn it unitl there is no lash anymore, you are then at zero lash. Take the checker out and add up how many turn you made and mulitply by .050 and then add that to the closed length of the checker(I dont remmeber that number off hand). Then take that number and add.075 to it to account for the lifter preload you need. Then you have your needed length.
#70
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^Or just MIC up the overall length? or add the MIC'd Halves?
What I'm also wondering is how far down can that lifter plunger be pushed? Will it bottom out? Won't that add a significant length to the reading. When I was tightening the rockers, I would tighten one down and this particular one the valve was open.... Anyway, I would watch the valve open then the lifter would then compress under the stress of a 'dry' lifter and no oil pressure.
It takes a lot to compress that lifter plunger. These are also brand new. I guess it was just bleeding down. THere was also the lifter spring pressure. I could turn the rod, but it was slightly more difficult than the stock engine. But I could still turn it.
I'm getting really frusterated with this whole thing...
What I'm also wondering is how far down can that lifter plunger be pushed? Will it bottom out? Won't that add a significant length to the reading. When I was tightening the rockers, I would tighten one down and this particular one the valve was open.... Anyway, I would watch the valve open then the lifter would then compress under the stress of a 'dry' lifter and no oil pressure.
It takes a lot to compress that lifter plunger. These are also brand new. I guess it was just bleeding down. THere was also the lifter spring pressure. I could turn the rod, but it was slightly more difficult than the stock engine. But I could still turn it.
I'm getting really frusterated with this whole thing...
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
#71
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The oil passes through where the pump mounts to the block. In from the p/u tube and out into the blocks oil galleys. There are no gaskets b/c it is a flat machined surface, and if it leaks a little it goes back into the pan anyway. No rtv or gaskets required on the oil pump mating surface.
#73
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by bayer-z28
We'll get it done this weekend. or do small steps thru the week and finish it on fri or sat..
The prlc should be here Friday if it is FedEx, Sat if UPS.
Once I figure out the length I need I will be able to get the right PR by next week sometime.
Last edited by -=Modified=-; 03-27-2007 at 03:36 PM.
#74
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Gentlemen,
Here's my "similar" story.
Started off with stock LS1..nothing ticking etc..
1st Upgrade:
231/237 TR Cam
LS6 Heads
LS6 Oil Pump
Stock Length TR Titanium Pushrods 7.400
Dual Springs of course..
Stock rocker arms
Car ran good. It did tick sometimes. It would only tick when I'm cruising under 2000 rpm. When I keep the revs up no ticking.
2nd Upgrade:
Magic Stick 4 Cam
PRC Springs, same stock length TR pushrods 7.400
Stock rocker arms still
LS2/LS7 Lifters (AC Delco) from TSP
Unfortunately I didn't soak the lifters in oil before putting them in. Anyhow, car never ticks when its cold. Took a trip today, cruised at 3000 rpm no ticking. As soon as I shift to 5th and drive 1800-2000 rpm here it comes again. This time after cam swap it does it everytime I drive the car. It seems like I have the same problem and not a spun rod bearing because:
-Good oil pressure
-No power decrease
-Only ticks when warm at low rpm
I'm very annoyed and looking forward to your results.
Here's my "similar" story.
Started off with stock LS1..nothing ticking etc..
1st Upgrade:
231/237 TR Cam
LS6 Heads
LS6 Oil Pump
Stock Length TR Titanium Pushrods 7.400
Dual Springs of course..
Stock rocker arms
Car ran good. It did tick sometimes. It would only tick when I'm cruising under 2000 rpm. When I keep the revs up no ticking.
2nd Upgrade:
Magic Stick 4 Cam
PRC Springs, same stock length TR pushrods 7.400
Stock rocker arms still
LS2/LS7 Lifters (AC Delco) from TSP
Unfortunately I didn't soak the lifters in oil before putting them in. Anyhow, car never ticks when its cold. Took a trip today, cruised at 3000 rpm no ticking. As soon as I shift to 5th and drive 1800-2000 rpm here it comes again. This time after cam swap it does it everytime I drive the car. It seems like I have the same problem and not a spun rod bearing because:
-Good oil pressure
-No power decrease
-Only ticks when warm at low rpm
I'm very annoyed and looking forward to your results.
#75
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by kukri
Gentlemen,
Here's my "similar" story.
Started off with stock LS1..nothing ticking etc..
1st Upgrade:
231/237 TR Cam
LS6 Heads
LS6 Oil Pump
Stock Length TR Titanium Pushrods 7.400
Dual Springs of course..
Stock rocker arms
Car ran good. It did tick sometimes. It would only tick when I'm cruising under 2000 rpm. When I keep the revs up no ticking.
2nd Upgrade:
Magic Stick 4 Cam
PRC Springs, same stock length TR pushrods 7.400
Stock rocker arms still
LS2/LS7 Lifters (AC Delco) from TSP
Unfortunately I didn't soak the lifters in oil before putting them in. Anyhow, car never ticks when its cold. Took a trip today, cruised at 3000 rpm no ticking. As soon as I shift to 5th and drive 1800-2000 rpm here it comes again. This time after cam swap it does it everytime I drive the car. It seems like I have the same problem and not a spun rod bearing because:
-Good oil pressure
-No power decrease
-Only ticks when warm at low rpm
I'm very annoyed and looking forward to your results.
Here's my "similar" story.
Started off with stock LS1..nothing ticking etc..
1st Upgrade:
231/237 TR Cam
LS6 Heads
LS6 Oil Pump
Stock Length TR Titanium Pushrods 7.400
Dual Springs of course..
Stock rocker arms
Car ran good. It did tick sometimes. It would only tick when I'm cruising under 2000 rpm. When I keep the revs up no ticking.
2nd Upgrade:
Magic Stick 4 Cam
PRC Springs, same stock length TR pushrods 7.400
Stock rocker arms still
LS2/LS7 Lifters (AC Delco) from TSP
Unfortunately I didn't soak the lifters in oil before putting them in. Anyhow, car never ticks when its cold. Took a trip today, cruised at 3000 rpm no ticking. As soon as I shift to 5th and drive 1800-2000 rpm here it comes again. This time after cam swap it does it everytime I drive the car. It seems like I have the same problem and not a spun rod bearing because:
-Good oil pressure
-No power decrease
-Only ticks when warm at low rpm
I'm very annoyed and looking forward to your results.
#76
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by brad8266
Your pushrods are too short first of all.
I may have to go 7.45 or higher. I will post as soon as my pushrod length checker gets here.
Damn all the I I I, "I" am starting to sound like Tyra Banks.
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
#77
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
I think so too.
I may have to go 7.45 or higher. I will post as soon as my pushrod length checker gets here.
Damn all the I I I, "I" am starting to sound like Tyra Banks.![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
I may have to go 7.45 or higher. I will post as soon as my pushrod length checker gets here.
Damn all the I I I, "I" am starting to sound like Tyra Banks.
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
LOL @ the tyra comment.
#78
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by brad8266
Good stuff, the checker will not lie to ya, just be sure to add lifter preload to you measurement to get your needed PR length.
LOL @ the tyra comment.
LOL @ the tyra comment.
It has the measurements on the dial.
Let me make sure I have this right.
1. I dial the checker in to zero lash at the rocker and lifter.
2. Add .075 to the number on the checker to account for the lifter preload you need
3. Number on the dial + .075 = the lifter size I need?
I hope to hell I don't have PTVC issues when I am done.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
The head gaskets are GM# 12498543
![](http://www.byunspeed.com/images/images_big/GM12498543.jpg)
Last edited by -=Modified=-; 03-28-2007 at 09:15 AM.
#79
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
I ordered the Comp Cams Pushrod Length Checker 6.800-7.800.
It has the measurements on the dial.
Let me make sure I have this right.
1. I dial the checker in to zero lash at the rocker and lifter.
2. Add .075 to the number on the checker to account for the lifter preload you need
3. Number on the dial + .075 = the lifter size I need?
I hope to hell I don't have PTVC issues when I am done.![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
It has the measurements on the dial.
Let me make sure I have this right.
1. I dial the checker in to zero lash at the rocker and lifter.
2. Add .075 to the number on the checker to account for the lifter preload you need
3. Number on the dial + .075 = the lifter size I need?
I hope to hell I don't have PTVC issues when I am done.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Just be sure the rocker nut is only hand tightened and that you do not preload the lifter with the checker which isnt going to happen anyway if the lifter is already filled with oil. The lifter plunger is tough to push when the lifter is full of oil so it wont be easy to preload it, which is good.
#80
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by brad8266
yeah the checker is 6.8 at the smallest point, lets say it takes 15 turns to get to zero lash, each turn is .050 fo you would have (.050*10) + 6.8+ lifter preload .075= 7.375 required PR length.
Just be sure the rocker nut is only hand tightened and that you do not preload the lifter with the checker which isnt going to happen anyway if the lifter is already filled with oil. The lifter plunger is tough to push when the lifter is full of oil so it wont be easy to preload it, which is good.
Just be sure the rocker nut is only hand tightened and that you do not preload the lifter with the checker which isnt going to happen anyway if the lifter is already filled with oil. The lifter plunger is tough to push when the lifter is full of oil so it wont be easy to preload it, which is good.