383 LT1 from Golen -- reliable?
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From: Orange County, CA
383 LT1 from Golen -- reliable? My camaro is my daily driver and if the engine ever goes any time soon (i hope not, but the oil pressure is getting lower), I wanted to drop in a 383 stroker b/c I like monster torque. I pretty much did a lot of research, just can't figure out if they are going to be reliable enough to last 100,000 miles. Remember, I don't drive at 6000RPM's all day. Usually cruise around 2k and go up to 4 or 5000 once or twice a day if that. I shift around 2500 rpm.
Basically, if I were to do this, i would simply pick the engine that is already built from Golen (the 383 LT1/400hp package for $5,299, plus add the H-beam rods for 300 bucks), and drop the MF in and get it tuned. Along with a 12-bolt from Moser or just build the crap out of the 10 bolt. That means I wouldn't mess with the cam selection and just use what they have already in it.
Also, can I use my LTCC conversion on a 383? I do not want to go back to opti ever again.
Basically, if I were to do this, i would simply pick the engine that is already built from Golen (the 383 LT1/400hp package for $5,299, plus add the H-beam rods for 300 bucks), and drop the MF in and get it tuned. Along with a 12-bolt from Moser or just build the crap out of the 10 bolt. That means I wouldn't mess with the cam selection and just use what they have already in it.
Also, can I use my LTCC conversion on a 383? I do not want to go back to opti ever again.
You can use your ltcc setup.The engine remain the same so no problemo.
Golen make really good engine(short or long bloc) but...(there is always a *but* somewhere)
The advertise 400hp is based on a engine dyno,so no accessories,no drivetrain,nothing.This is probably a 350ish hp engine.
You see the lt1 350 base one rated at 360hp(on the top of there engine option).Some guys bougth it and took it to the dyno.The cars was having all the bolt on and just only pass the 300whp mark.So for 4700$ you get basiclly a stock rebuilt
Golen make really good engine(short or long bloc) but...(there is always a *but* somewhere)
The advertise 400hp is based on a engine dyno,so no accessories,no drivetrain,nothing.This is probably a 350ish hp engine.
You see the lt1 350 base one rated at 360hp(on the top of there engine option).Some guys bougth it and took it to the dyno.The cars was having all the bolt on and just only pass the 300whp mark.So for 4700$ you get basiclly a stock rebuilt
If I were going to buy a built crate LT1 of either 350 or 383 variety it'd be from Lingenfelter and no where else...Mine is on its 13th year and the bottom end has NEVER been apart and NEVER had any issues...13 years of racing and DD and over 50,000 miles of flawless performance....The devil is in the details and LPE is, imho, hands down the best out there...
--Alan
--Alan
If I were going to buy a built crate LT1 of either 350 or 383 variety it'd be from Lingenfelter and no where else...Mine is on its 13th year and the bottom end has NEVER been apart and NEVER had any issues...13 years of racing and DD and over 50,000 miles of flawless performance....The devil is in the details and LPE is, imho, hands down the best out there...
--Alan
--Alan
--Alan
I think always faster was a little too kind and generous. Several b-body guys have gotten right around 320rwhp out of Golen 440hp strokers.
I don't see consistent good results or longevity either but my measure of parts is VERY different than most other guys.
I don't see consistent good results or longevity either but my measure of parts is VERY different than most other guys.
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Verdad Gallardo Before this thread goes too far off course I'll just add that I haven't seen too many fast Golen motors around nor many that have lasted a long time...Like Dwayne said above whats high quality to some isn't necessarily to others...I certainly cant say enough good things about my Callies, Oliver, JE combo...
--Alan
...oops I forgot about The Engineer...sorry WD...
--Alan
...oops I forgot about The Engineer...sorry WD...
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Moore Oklahoma
Before this thread goes too far off course I'll just add that I haven't seen too many fast Golen motors around nor many that have lasted a long time...Like Dwayne said above whats high quality to some isn't necessarily to others...I certainly cant say enough good things about my Callies, Oliver, JE combo...
--Alan
...oops I forgot about The Engineer...sorry WD...
--Alan
...oops I forgot about The Engineer...sorry WD...
There are many "very good" LT engine builders around the country. I have my personal preference (Golen, which I’m starting my third season bracket racing with the engine), but I will reframe from any negative commends on the other builders.
WD
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From: ne ct summer,naples in the fall
alan- is that dons old bird? alan,
is that dons old bird? it sounds like it but since this is a ls1/lt1 site it may be someone else with the same name and same car.
If it is the same alan who's father bought the 71 chevelle than take a look at my lingenfelter 383 i bought back in november..
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/i...er%20c5%20383/
no track time yet- the former owner went 12.40's @ 125 on mich pilot's so the drag radials i bought should make this sucker go deep in the 11's.
barry
is that dons old bird? it sounds like it but since this is a ls1/lt1 site it may be someone else with the same name and same car.
If it is the same alan who's father bought the 71 chevelle than take a look at my lingenfelter 383 i bought back in november..
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/i...er%20c5%20383/
no track time yet- the former owner went 12.40's @ 125 on mich pilot's so the drag radials i bought should make this sucker go deep in the 11's.
barry
If I were going to buy a built crate LT1 of either 350 or 383 variety it'd be from Lingenfelter and no where else...Mine is on its 13th year and the bottom end has NEVER been apart and NEVER had any issues...13 years of racing and DD and over 50,000 miles of flawless performance....The devil is in the details and LPE is, imho, hands down the best out there...
--Alan
--Alan
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Building a high HP heads/cam motor AND asking it to last 100,000 miles is a tall order.
I have a Golen 383 forged short block with cam and heads of my choice. I have found Golen to be very responsive and for the $ you do get a good product. Is it the "best", doubt it but who is the "best" is a debateable?
One name would be Karl Elwin who is a 'one man" shop. Having complete dedication to each engine by someone who is as qualified as karl and is regarded as being extremely detailed in his build puts him, IMHO, at the top of the list.
Golen makes a very good bottom end, especially when you select forged parts. they now offer LE head and cam packages which are highly regarded. others like AI head/cam options.
If you want longevity you might want to consider a 355 with a mild cam and mildly ported heads with good springs. HP & TQ will not be as high as "possible".
I have a Golen 383 forged short block with cam and heads of my choice. I have found Golen to be very responsive and for the $ you do get a good product. Is it the "best", doubt it but who is the "best" is a debateable?
One name would be Karl Elwin who is a 'one man" shop. Having complete dedication to each engine by someone who is as qualified as karl and is regarded as being extremely detailed in his build puts him, IMHO, at the top of the list.
Golen makes a very good bottom end, especially when you select forged parts. they now offer LE head and cam packages which are highly regarded. others like AI head/cam options.
If you want longevity you might want to consider a 355 with a mild cam and mildly ported heads with good springs. HP & TQ will not be as high as "possible".
im trying to figure out how a 350rwhp high dollar stroker motor is acceptable? you can put a small cam in a stock motor with a few bolt ons and get that...... the whole reason to buy a high dollar crate engine is to get alot of power and a warranty..... not get a stock motors capabilities with good parts and a warranty......
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The "power" is in the heads/cam. Golen can and will put any combination of parts togeather in the bottom end and head/cam package.
Their shortblock with forged internals and SRP pistons is a solid bottom end.
They do publish "engine" dyno results not "chassis" (RWHP) #'s. Those #'s are for their "base" engine packages with pcm4less tunes and were for head/cam packages prior to their offerings of LE packages. Other head/cam packages (AI, LE, etc) AND tunes specific to the entire engine/drivetrain package of a specific application will vary.
My $02 is if you want a motor for 100,000 miles you need to "dumb down" the head/cam package to one that has lower lift than a package designed with maximum performance in mind. If you kill a "stock" motor with bolt ons and heads/cam before 100k mi....most likely do the same with a "built" motor.
Golen is probally the larger supplier of rebuilt LT1's and good and bad results will be greater with them because of the volume they do. I would suggest the "bad" results were due, in large part, to errors on the part of the person completeing the engine (if they just bought short block), improper valve train geometry/componets. Failure to prime the motor prior to initial start up...and just abuse "performance" motors get by the end user (miss shifts and over reving).
I do know Chad Golen stands by anything they do
Their shortblock with forged internals and SRP pistons is a solid bottom end.
They do publish "engine" dyno results not "chassis" (RWHP) #'s. Those #'s are for their "base" engine packages with pcm4less tunes and were for head/cam packages prior to their offerings of LE packages. Other head/cam packages (AI, LE, etc) AND tunes specific to the entire engine/drivetrain package of a specific application will vary.
My $02 is if you want a motor for 100,000 miles you need to "dumb down" the head/cam package to one that has lower lift than a package designed with maximum performance in mind. If you kill a "stock" motor with bolt ons and heads/cam before 100k mi....most likely do the same with a "built" motor.
Golen is probally the larger supplier of rebuilt LT1's and good and bad results will be greater with them because of the volume they do. I would suggest the "bad" results were due, in large part, to errors on the part of the person completeing the engine (if they just bought short block), improper valve train geometry/componets. Failure to prime the motor prior to initial start up...and just abuse "performance" motors get by the end user (miss shifts and over reving).
I do know Chad Golen stands by anything they do
ok i see, i just thought that 400 at the flywheel was a little weak concidering a heads and cam stroker motor..... when i say heads i mean machined stockers! now 400rwhp would be more like it out of a stroker crate engine........
now back on topic, if this guy is really trying to get 100,000 miles out of a built motor he is not thinking realisticly..... have some built engines lasted that long? probly but most last around 20,000-50,000 depending on how radical they are..... my 550rwhp small block LT1 got less t han 10,000 miles...... it was more a drag car with plenty of launches at the track but still anything with "pleasing power" in a V8 aint gonna last as nearly as long as a stock sealed engine........ so basicly in a nutshell get the 100,000 mile thing out of your head or stick to a bone stock internal engine with bolt ons...... and honestly if you want to have lots of fun for a long time thats the way to go....you see how many mods i have done to my 2002 LS1 right? not even a cam is going in that thing cause it will see more jackstands that the pavement once you do!
now back on topic, if this guy is really trying to get 100,000 miles out of a built motor he is not thinking realisticly..... have some built engines lasted that long? probly but most last around 20,000-50,000 depending on how radical they are..... my 550rwhp small block LT1 got less t han 10,000 miles...... it was more a drag car with plenty of launches at the track but still anything with "pleasing power" in a V8 aint gonna last as nearly as long as a stock sealed engine........ so basicly in a nutshell get the 100,000 mile thing out of your head or stick to a bone stock internal engine with bolt ons...... and honestly if you want to have lots of fun for a long time thats the way to go....you see how many mods i have done to my 2002 LS1 right? not even a cam is going in that thing cause it will see more jackstands that the pavement once you do!
