1996camaross

anyone have any ideas on what the best set of heads i can get for a 292 xfi cam with the most performance and power? ...

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

What is the rest of the combo?

You are aware Comp's rpm range on their LT1 cams is WAY off, particularly for a 350. Expect to have to rev that cam to 7000 in a 350 and 6500 in a 396.

Really a poor choice no matter what, but guessing that wont stop you.

1996camaross

yea i wanted something big that could lope and increase power by a decent amount... and now i am afraid it is over cammed with stock heads... here is the rest of the information...
Operating Range: 2200-6200 RPM
Duration Advertised: 292° Intake / 300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 242° Intake / 248° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .584'' Intake / .579'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 113°

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I can look up cam specs I was talking about engine and drivetrain specs.

This cam is a REALLY bad choice especially on a stock shortblock, it will have to be revved too high and will not perform. Put it this way the cam I run is more than 15 degrees smaller and has less lift, and I still take to just about 6500rpms.

On a stock shortblock assume Comp's rpm ranges are about 800rpms LOWER than what you will actually have to turn, and most of us agree 6500 is about all you want to do with a stock shortblock for reliability sake.

BattleShip

He is not kidding that cam is HUGE

I am having a 230/230 115 .576" solid for a Drag only car. It will be a 377 twin turbo and I think I am WAY too big. I want to stay <6500 and I may not be able to.

I will launch ~3000 with boost and it will be intentionally lazy but yours will be dead at that point NA.

1996camaross

well one good thing is that im a 6-speed... but for caprice... i have beehive .600 valve springs... hardend push rods... new roller lifters... 1.6rr... new retainers and valve locks... also have headers... and 4:10 gears with slicks... i know its a huge cam... but it pulls pretty hard... espically past 4,000 rpm... but i need heads so it can breath better! also im getting a 58mm throttle body and 58mm intake manifold...

BattleShip

You won't listen.

It will pull after 4000 but by then the race is over and you lost!
With bigger heads, and 58 mm your powerband will move even higher

You are building a PERFECT turd! You won't listen but you will be tearing it apart to go smaller!

BattleShip

As a reference point a friend had a 406 with 671 blower with a 248/252 he put in a 236/242 and went faster and that is a 406

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You still have not confirmed/denied that it is a stock shortblock.

It will not run well but seems you will have to make this mistake before you will learn anything.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

I had that cam in my first non stock setup. It was on a stock bottom end with CNC LPE cylinder heads. We spun it to 7000 on the Dynojet and the horsepower was still climbing, had not yet peaked. Was not a good cam choice, but it was how I learned. I did not do my homework.

My buddy bought it off me and ran it in his 383 with stock heads. It ran much better in it but was still a tad on the big side.

ryanmh1

If you're pulling the heads, you might as well pull that stinker of a cam. As you've already been told, all that cam is good for is making lots and lots of loping and causing the car to run like trash. Unless, that is, you want to drop 2.5k on some monster heads, then pull the motor to rebuild the whole bottom end with forged rods and crank, balance the whole rotating assembly, upgrade the oiling system and what not, and then spin the bugger like a drag motor.

I'm just curious: Why did you go through all of the effort of tearing down a motor to swap a cam and do apparently zero research first?

1996camaross

yes it is a stock short block... sorry!

1996camaross

All right... what do u think i should do to make it as fast as possible with all motor... im probally spraying down the road?

BALLSS

....I suggest the Crane 227 or LI 211 for stock heads or if you want a XFI 465 or 466 if you have head work.

also if you are installing the beehives on 'stock" heads that have not had the spring pockets machined down....you will hit coil bind with that cam since the lower installed height will not allow a .600 lift....and the cam is at .584 on the intake side.

as suggested by others on this thread you need to reconsider your cam choice.

1996camaross

all right... what is the best cam for beehive .600 valve springs... hardend push rods... new roller lifters... 1.6rr... new retainers and valve locks... also have headers... and 4:10 gears with slicks... and im getting head work/heads... and want to spray a small 100 shot for now?

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Small cam, decent heads, and a 150-200 shot of spray will put a big smile on your face. You can do this with a shortblock that will not break the bank. Trans and rearend are another story. But if you want to play, well you know the rest. Start saving, which ever route you take.

1996camaross

i like that idea... im trying to stay with comp... so here are a few other cams from them... tell me which one would be the best nitrous cam... but still run good on motor...

"XFI" 252 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft GM LT1 & LT4 350ci 1993-96 Lift: 550"/ 546" w/1 6 Rockers Duration: 252°/264° RPM Range: 1000-5000


"XFI" 260 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft GM LT1 & LT4 350ci 1993-96 Lift: 560"/ 555" w/1 6 Rockers Duration: 260°/270° RPM Range: 1200-5200


"XFI" 268 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft GM LT1 LT4 350ci 1993-96 Lift .570"/.565" w/1.6 Rockers Duration 268 deg /276 deg RPM Range 1800-5800

"XFI" 280 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft GM LT1 LT4 350ci 1993-96 Lift .576"/.570" w/1.6 Rockers Duration 280 deg /288 deg RPM Range 2000-6000

im about to sell my four wheeler for 3,500... so that should be a good start... im forgeing everything... and getting a decent set of heads... id like to do the 200 shot... and also would it be better to get the 355ci forge kit or get the 383 forge kit or the 396 forge kit?

BALLSS

I run the 268 in my b-body 6 speed 383 forged NA motor. Idle is very mild

Can't comment on how it is with Nitrous

Would encourage a forged bottom end and pistons if going with spray.

383 will give you more low end TQ over a 350 which is helpfull in the heavier b-body.

while you will get many opinions on this board I suggest you contact LE or AI for a head cam package tailored to your goals. Have your short block rebuilt with forged internals with bore of choice or buy a short block.

if y0u are looking for off the shelf parts, the COMP 268 and the Dart LT 1 heads is one option or just have GM AL heads worked.

many feel the GM 845 cam is a solid performer as well.

1996camaross

thanks man...ill look into it... if anyone else has any ideas feel free to post them... id like a decent selection!

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt necessarily pigeon hole myself with comps stuff...Theres others out there that will perform better, imho...I always suggest cams on the smaller side of duration with lifts in the .560-.570 range...These motors love the smaller durations in the 220ish range intake and .530ish range on the exhaust side...Properly ported stock heads will support more than most give credit for...Look at AIs stuff as they seem to have good track results and I always like the Lingenfelter cams and their LT1 heads, while pricey are hard to beat...I'm on my 13th year with Lingenfelter heads...FWIW I run a custom 226/234 .568" lift on a 111lsa in my 383 and drive it everywhere...Last year it went consistent 11.20s at over 121 mph n/a pump gas 3600 lbs...And we've tweaked the suspension and converter a bit more this year...Just havent had a chance to get it out and test it...

Going too big is a huge mistake in a cam choice...look around at who's going fast and pick their brains...remember to look at mph...Dont worry about ET yet as its a function of traction...And dont get too bogged down in dyno numbers either...I only make 375 rwhp on a mustang dyno...

--Alan