Measuring Bearing Clearances - Help
If we get a crank delivered by UPS it's usually just about the outside temp (25F today), so it has to soak in the shop air for 8 hours or more to get to a temp to measure it. I'm not sure I'd want to measure one @ -40F!
Hot honing a block presents a measurement challenge. Sure, with 6.8 millionths/in/F for cast iron, a 4.030 bore hot-honed @ 230F should be about .0038 bigger than it will be at 70F room temp. The bore gage is about 70F before you put it in the hole, but heat transfer thru the gage tips into the bore gage happens quickly. I suppose you could have a setting ring to recheck the bore gage thermal growth as soon as you pulled it out of the hot bore, but it still seems like a challenge to get exact size.
Also, make damn sure whatever your measuring is clean. Very clean. I like to keep a few cans of electric motor cleaner around just for this.
The marks your bore gauge is leaving on the bearings is normal, no matter how gentle you are. If your not leaving them on H or coated bearings, your doing something wrong. I usually take scotch bright to my bearings, so the marks get removed anyway.
Steel: 0.00000633 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Cast Iron: 0.00000655 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Aluminum: 0.00001244 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Makes me think that an aluminum block is going to move around a bunch at temperature. For example a 9.240" deck height at room temperature (70°F) is all of a sudden going to be 0.015" taller at 200°F. And shorter at lower temperatures (luckily not enough to eat up the quench space since the reduction in height is about .012" at -30°F).
All the mixed materials involved these days really makes one think hard about building an engine. Have to decide exactly what clearances are needed, especially considering the materials involved and the operating environment they will see. Makes something that seems trivial (yeah, I've got a balanced & blueprinted motor....) a lot more tricky when you start really looking hard at it from an engineering standpoint.
'JustDreamin'
Steel: 0.00000633 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Cast Iron: 0.00000655 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Aluminum: 0.00001244 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Makes me think that an aluminum block is going to move around a bunch at temperature. For example a 9.240" deck height at room temperature (70°F) is all of a sudden going to be 0.015" taller at 200°F. And shorter at lower temperatures (luckily not enough to eat up the quench space since the reduction in height is about .012" at -30°F).
All the mixed materials involved these days really makes one think hard about building an engine. Have to decide exactly what clearances are needed, especially considering the materials involved and the operating environment they will see. Makes something that seems trivial (yeah, I've got a balanced & blueprinted motor....) a lot more tricky when you start really looking hard at it from an engineering standpoint.
'JustDreamin'
Also, steel or iron mains on an aluminum block. What is happening there?
Speaking again of expansion (Holy thread hijack, Batman!), a prestigious US Porsche tuner a few years ago was going through valve lash loops on an air-cooled 911 mill on the dyno and gaining power each time they closed them down. They knocked off for lunch and when they returned, couldn't get the engine started. Eventually discovered there was no compression, due to negative cold lash...
Steel: 0.00000633 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Cast Iron: 0.00000655 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Aluminum: 0.00001244 inch expansion per inch per degree F
Makes me think that an aluminum block is going to move around a bunch at temperature. For example a 9.240" deck height at room temperature (70°F) is all of a sudden going to be 0.015" taller at 200°F. And shorter at lower temperatures (luckily not enough to eat up the quench space since the reduction in height is about .012" at -30°F).
All the mixed materials involved these days really makes one think hard about building an engine. Have to decide exactly what clearances are needed, especially considering the materials involved and the operating environment they will see. Makes something that seems trivial (yeah, I've got a balanced & blueprinted motor....) a lot more tricky when you start really looking hard at it from an engineering standpoint.
'JustDreamin'
I don't know that we're terribly off topic. But I'm not sure if the original question got answered fully.
'JustDreamin'
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Also, LME said that they shoot for a clearance of .0007" to .0021" on their main bearings. Is anywhere in that range acceptable, or will .0007" have a lot of friction and .0021" have little oil pressure? I assume the middle of the range like .0014" would be a great clearance to have?
Final question, are the goal clearances on the main AND rod bearings the same? Thanks!
Also, LME said that they shoot for a clearance of .0007" to .0021" on their main bearings. Is anywhere in that range acceptable, or will .0007" have a lot of friction and .0021" have little oil pressure? I assume the middle of the range like .0014" would be a great clearance to have?
Final question, are the goal clearances on the main AND rod bearings the same? Thanks!
Clearances would depend on your application. Give details...
I will say that I would never run 7 tenths on anything, but that's just me.
Clearances would depend on your application. Give details...
I will say that I would never run 7 tenths on anything, but that's just me.
My application is a NA street motor, aiming for around 550rwhp. There is a slight chance of a little N20, but that won't be for awhile. I am looking for reliability, long life, and good oil pressure(40+psi), and ofcourse good power. Basically, I think halfway in between acceptably tight and acceptably loose, if that makes sense. I would prefer the motor be built tighter than looser.
Also, LME said that they shoot for a clearance of .0007" to .0021" on their main bearings. Is anywhere in that range acceptable, or will .0007" have a lot of friction and .0021" have little oil pressure? I assume the middle of the range like .0014" would be a great clearance to have?
Final question, are the goal clearances on the main AND rod bearings the same? Thanks!
If we are talking cast iron block for an LS1, we generally set up the mains at
.0024"- .0027". This will give you great oil pressure and durability. On aluminum we like the mains to be a bit tighter.
I would not run the mains as tight as .0007".
If you have ever checked a stock aluminum LS1. You may be suprised how tight they will run.
My application is a NA street motor, aiming for around 550rwhp. There is a slight chance of a little N20, but that won't be for awhile. I am looking for reliability, long life, and good oil pressure(40+psi), and ofcourse good power. Basically, I think halfway in between acceptably tight and acceptably loose, if that makes sense. I would prefer the motor be built tighter than looser.

My $.02
Now imagine that the torque + angle sequence for those fasteners had been determined by GM engineers after taking thermal expansion into account.
What temp is the engine when the fasteners are tightened? Yours was at the same temp, right? ...right? What? You assembled your aluminum engine in a 30degree garage? Wooops....




