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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by brad8266
yeah but it still isnt gonna change DCR much at all. Carbon build up can make more of a difference than .2 here and .1 there.
Carbon is an unknown amount, and also can be controlled with occasional water mist or seafoam type cleaning. You really do need the accurate .006 numbers which can be 2-3 degrees higher than text boook published.

Hammer
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #22  
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changing IVC @ .006 by 2 degress changes DCR by .07, which is pretty much nothing.

No **** we all want real life measured numbers, but it isnt practical for planning out your engine, there is always going to be a margin of error anyway, Do you think if you plan it out to 8.5 DCr that when you get all the parts and install it all its actually going to be dead on? It wont ever be, there are too many parts in play that all have slight tolerance imperfections.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by brad8266
changing IVC @ .006 by 2 degress changes DCR by .07, which is pretty much nothing.

No **** we all want real life measured numbers, but it isnt practical for planning out your engine, there is always going to be a margin of error anyway, Do you think if you plan it out to 8.5 DCr that when you get all the parts and install it all its actually going to be dead on? It wont ever be, there are too many parts in play that all have slight tolerance imperfections.
Well heck then, let's just toss some random parts together and go win some races...LOL


But seriously, yeah, maybe I'm nitpicking. And we can't control all aspects, but all these "nothings" when all added up can actually account for noticable differences. Like some people said, my extra degrees of advance that came with my cam was nothing...then add in the nothing for not accounting for real world duration numbers...and add in the nothing that is the incorrect bore size in Piano Prodigy's spreadsheet...then add in the nothing for whatever else we can come up with.... Does that make sense? Be as accurate as possible with what you know, and the end result tends to be closer to what you want.

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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by thehammer69
Well heck then, let's just toss some random parts together and go win some races...LOL


But seriously, yeah, maybe I'm nitpicking. And we can't control all aspects, but all these "nothings" when all added up can actually account for noticable differences. Like some people said, my extra degrees of advance that came with my cam was nothing...then add in the nothing for not accounting for real world duration numbers...and add in the nothing that is the incorrect bore size in Piano Prodigy's spreadsheet...then add in the nothing for whatever else we can come up with.... Does that make sense? Be as accurate as possible with what you know, and the end result tends to be closer to what you want.

Hammer
I agree, be as accurate as you can, but also be aware that there is a margin of error. I remember your cam thread too, 2 degrees of ground advance to me would have been a big issue too.

The OP says it is on a LSK lobe so I just matched up what the LSK chart says for those durations, thats as close as we can get without having real .006 specs in front of us. Sure it will probably vary a small amount from there.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #25  
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99 per cent of the quench talk on this site of BS unless you really know what the pistons are as far as in/out of the deck and really measure it yourself. People are assuming numbers that they did not actually measure so at least make sure you know if your pistons are .005 in the hole or maybe .025 out of the hole because I have seen that on engines lately where both customers thought they were about .008 out!
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by thehammer69
...you need the cam doctored numbers
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:37 PM
  #27  
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Must be a Comp Cams. That cam doctor sheet looks like the one for my 268XFI cam with the lobes larger than advertised for the .050" lift.
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