Flat Crank LS1?
I was thinking about it, and for High RPM's it would make alot of sense.
All one would need to do is, get the Flat crank itself- about the same price as a top of the line 4340 crank, a custom ground cam, and a retune, because the firing order has been altered.
This setup would also be ideal for a turbo, because you now have even exhaust pulses.
And the best part is, It would sound like no other LSx out there.
So what is everybodys opinion on the matter?
I think the crank could be significantly lighter, because you don't need all of the counter weights. The cam might be difficult because of how the blanks are made, but you would have to talk to a cam manufacturer about that.
Do it, and let us know how it goes.
I was thinking about it, and for High RPM's it would make alot of sense.
All one would need to do is, get the Flat crank itself- about the same price as a top of the line 4340 crank, a custom ground cam, and a retune, because the firing order has been altered.
This setup would also be ideal for a turbo, because you now have even exhaust pulses.
And the best part is, It would sound like no other LSx out there.
So what is everybodys opinion on the matter?
1. Crank wold have to be billet. Figure 12-16 weeks to get one from a good manufacturer. Also figure the better part of $3K.
2. Vibration is an issue with 180° (flat) crank V8s. Not so bad in a race car but not too nice on the street.
3. Cam core would need to be special, but that's only money. Maybe $300-$500 extra. It could be made during the 3-4 months you were waiting for a crank.

4. I don't believe a turbo cares much about exhaust pulse spacing. All the flow just gets crammed into the spinning turbine wheel. However you can do 4>1 header tuning better on NA even firing banks, so that's an advantage. That's one reason NA open wheel V8 racecars use flat cranks.
5. The NA sound would be cool as long as the exhaust pipes exitied the car near each other. If they came out each side of the car just in front of the rear wheels, it would sound like a big 4-banger from either side of the car.
My $.02

Chris.
Many engine configurations use split-throw cranks to get even firing for production engines. Not so on race engines.
Ferrari builds 180° crank V8 street cars. Sound is sweet!
As for materials, I see know reason why a cast crank shouldn't be used. Nice and tough plus less brittle then a heavy forging.
Boosted.
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Also, just a correction, forged cranks are tougher and less brittle than cast iron.
Mike
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As for materials, I see know reason why a cast crank shouldn't be used. Nice and tough plus less brittle then a heavy forging.
Boosted.
AFAIK, there are few if any folks making one-off cast cranks. You'd need a pattern, which isn't cheap in itself. I suggest that a one-off cast crank might cost more than a billet.
Most cast cranks are not made from the same grey cast iron used in cylinder blocks. Noldular or ductile iron is most often used for "cast" cranks. A good cast nodular or ductile iron crank is remarkably non-brittle and tough, and better than some forgings, but ultimately a forging or billet alloy steel (eg 4340 or even VAR steels) is stronger, tougher, less brittle and can be lighter than a cast crank.
It would be of no benefit in a turbo application since you have two exhaust valves open at the same time and the result is that exhaust will want to enter the second cylinder and contaminate the charge.
Btw, you can do the same thing with a two plane crank, but headers would have to cross under the engine from one bank to the other then to the collector. A PITA sure, but cheaper than having a special crank and cam made. In a high revving race engine, it's illegal(NASCAR) or impractical(ferrari) to cross the headers from bank to bank since they must be very short to tune for the high rpm. We keep spools on the shelf here and could have a cam made with the correct firing order in 3 weeks. The crank would be your biggest expense and wait.
Alin
Most cast cranks are not made from the same grey cast iron used in cylinder blocks. Noldular or ductile iron is most often used for "cast" cranks. A good cast nodular or ductile iron crank is remarkably non-brittle and tough, and better than some forgings.
Boosted.
2. Vibration is an issue with 180° (flat) crank V8s. Not so bad in a race car but not too nice on the street.
3. Cam core would need to be special, but that's only money. Maybe $300-$500 extra. It could be made during the 3-4 months you were waiting for a crank.

4. I don't believe a turbo cares much about exhaust pulse spacing. All the flow just gets crammed into the spinning turbine wheel. However you can do 4>1 header tuning better on NA even firing banks, so that's an advantage. That's one reason NA open wheel V8 racecars use flat cranks.
5. The NA sound would be cool as long as the exhaust pipes exitied the car near each other. If they came out each side of the car just in front of the rear wheels, it would sound like a big 4-banger from either side of the car.
My $.02
6. Re-programing the firing order/fuel injection in the PCM. Once again could be done in the 3-4 months while you wait for the crank.
6. Re-programing the firing order/fuel injection in the PCM. Once again could be done in the 3-4 months while you wait for the crank.
So you actually have to wire them up in pairs. I don't know how the PCM would like running pairs of injectors and coils (double the current load). Not to mention the missfire codes, etc...
Mike
So you actually have to wire them up in pairs. I don't know how the PCM would like running pairs of injectors and coils (double the current load). Not to mention the missfire codes, etc...
If you number the right bank 1-2-3-4 (from the front ) and the left bank 5-6-7-8 also from the front, the typical firing order for a single plane crank V8 is: 1-8-3-6-4-5-2-7.
There's some people you listen to and dont question.
I realize they have their place. It seems that bigger V8s isnt one of them.
There's some people you listen to and dont question.
I realize they have their place. It seems that bigger V8s isnt one of them.
I dont think so.. WJ was wrong.
I dont think so.. WJ was wrong.
And I guess I should have clarified, WJ said/expressed that he found no clear, distict advantage using a 180* crank. It wasnt worth ditching the 90 stuff.
And with all the engine technology in nhra prostock, if there WAS a clear advantage to using 180* over a 90* I'm sure someone would have at some point been running them. They may be against the rules now, I dont know. But someone would have run one til they outlawed it.








