Dry sump system design
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 9
From: South Windsor, CT
Dry sump system design I want to run an LS7 dry sump setup on my new engine that I'm building, I already have the pan and pump (and a custom made crank to run the pump with a 3.622 stroke...and now I'm wondering if the LS9 crank in the new ZR1 will be an OEM solution to what I had made lol)...I'm probably going to be building my own tank though...or maybe something aftermarket...LS7 tank probably won't fit in my car...I guess I could mod the car to fit it, but it's stupidly expensive and I think some aftermarket tanks are better.
Are there any specific things I need to know about the tanks location in the car? How high does it need to be? How high relative to the ports on the oil pan should the outlet from the tank be? What else do I need to be aware of with a dry sump system?
Are there any specific things I need to know about the tanks location in the car? How high does it need to be? How high relative to the ports on the oil pan should the outlet from the tank be? What else do I need to be aware of with a dry sump system?
Last edited by Mike454SS; Dec 30, 2007 at 07:33 PM.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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Tank location is usually wherever it fits.
The pump suction will pull the oil out, doesn't matter where the ports are, as long as the tank input is above the fluid level.
If you look inside the tank, there is a tube that runs up on an angle so you don't suck up metal. So it's not a gravity feed. The pump will draw it out.
One tip, I bought 2 used tanks for my cars. Work great & 1/4 the cost for a non-moving part. I also made some changes, much easier & cheaper than changing a chassis. Hope I made some sense. Good luck.
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Tank location is usually wherever it fits.
The pump suction will pull the oil out, doesn't matter where the ports are, as long as the tank input is above the fluid level.
If you look inside the tank, there is a tube that runs up on an angle so you don't suck up metal. So it's not a gravity feed. The pump will draw it out.
One tip, I bought 2 used tanks for my cars. Work great & 1/4 the cost for a non-moving part. I also made some changes, much easier & cheaper than changing a chassis. Hope I made some sense. Good luck.
.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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I use a Patterson tank on 2 of my cars. I love them. Well built, strong.
Don't forget I have a Pro-Modified, my tank can't flow past the pump.
I can only tell you about my system. Good luck.
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I use a Patterson tank on 2 of my cars. I love them. Well built, strong.
Don't forget I have a Pro-Modified, my tank can't flow past the pump.
I can only tell you about my system. Good luck.
.
Its basically 2 LS1 pumps stacked on top of each other. If you know how and LS1 pump works, save yourself the trouble of taking it apart.
