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Alchemist is trying to keep it a secret from reading over and over on this thread i think they are mazda 3s, hate to buy the wrong ones though seems like they all take a month to deliver , c'mon alchemist we love you now SHARE YOUR SECRETS lmao
Sorry, I am not keeping it a secret, I just forget each time I read this to go search where I bought mine from.
I got them from ebay, here's the link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201120134129?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I need to use something different than the gorilla glue. It doesn't get hard enough, so now my **** is 'spongy' because the metal 'D' ring is flexing in the gorilla glue. I'm going to have to figure out something else and redo it.
n e one thought of maybe bondo or jbweld? i'm sure it will take some work getting it on there cleanly but it would hold better then gorilla glue wont flex.
I c jbweld was just mentioned. haha.
Last edited by Killer_Z; Oct 20, 2015 at 11:29 PM.
I think clear epoxy or plastic weld epoxy would be the best thing to use here. The plastic used in these buttons is not a low energy plastic so epoxy well bond very well.
I need to use something different than the gorilla glue. It doesn't get hard enough, so now my **** is 'spongy' because the metal 'D' ring is flexing in the gorilla glue. I'm going to have to figure out something else and redo it.
The search continues.
those look very nice
how big is the gap? I wonder if something could be 3d printed to close the gap a bit better?
anyone look into plastic welding? sounds silly I know, but there are videos out there and all you need is a soldering iron
I ordered mine and they should be in by thanksgiving (damn it china), but thats what Im going to attempt...
Edit: Plastic welding would be good but is a **** ton of work and getting everything to line up would be hard.So, Im going the tang route.The image should be self explanatory ,and Ill update tomorrow on the results.
UPDATE: **** number 1 worked great, just make sure the metal "D" stays perfectly center for about 24 hours, mine was a little off and is a little noticeable and it has about 1/16 play on all settings,but looks great regardless.I think that was the "spongy" thing brought up earlier, but clamp the D metal down using pliers until there is no gap in the center to avoid that.I'm doing the other two now and just used a mechanic pick to remove the metal this time, the only thing bothering me is that these dont have the red plastic in them so they have a dim stock yellow light color to them. So, I ordered some 6k 94 wedge 360 LEDs and a made some resisted red LEDs to go in the ***** themselves....Which forced me to take out the entire HVAC control and test them on my converter, update when the wedges come in.
Any one else still working on this?
Last edited by rimfire27; Dec 21, 2015 at 08:24 PM.
Thats a good idea but i Ithink itll mess with the blue coloring on the control overlay
EDIT: yea the actual clear plastic inside the ***** would be a great idea Id have to do some research on that, I thought you were talking about dying the clear plastic behind the overlay itself
Last edited by rimfire27; Dec 21, 2015 at 08:26 PM.
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