Instruction guide to buffing?
www.autopia.org will tell you anything and everythin you need to know about detailing
as others have said, it is not rocket science, but it IS a skill that is tough to learn. and dont think bc you see crackhead looking guys at local car washes and detail shops that this detailing thing is easy. it is not. it IS easy to take a buffer, crank up the speed way to high, and slide it across the paint very fast to make the car "shine" again. anythone can do that
what it takes is the right knowledge of pads and polishes, how to find the perfect combination to achieve the results you are after, and how to go about this withOUT creating swirl marks, holgrams, or buffer trails all over the car. this is the hard part. every finish is different. some paints harder, some softer, some clearcoats thinner. you really have to know your stuff! what works on car A will not neccessarily work on car B.
again, just bc you see unexperienced looking people working at a "detail shop" charging $100 for a full detail that might take them 3 hours....this is not easy. do research, scan the forum i mentioned above, and develope a basic understanding of buffing and correcting/polish/finishing paint. many of the users on autopia.org are among the BEST in this industry, and really know their stuff!
i suggest, as othes have, to start with a porter cable random orbital polisher. i went straight to a hgih speed buffer, but its probably best that you begin with something that is safer for the paints finish, while at the same time can achieve a nice polish and SOME correction with it.
as others have said, it is not rocket science, but it IS a skill that is tough to learn. and dont think bc you see crackhead looking guys at local car washes and detail shops that this detailing thing is easy. it is not. it IS easy to take a buffer, crank up the speed way to high, and slide it across the paint very fast to make the car "shine" again. anythone can do that
what it takes is the right knowledge of pads and polishes, how to find the perfect combination to achieve the results you are after, and how to go about this withOUT creating swirl marks, holgrams, or buffer trails all over the car. this is the hard part. every finish is different. some paints harder, some softer, some clearcoats thinner. you really have to know your stuff! what works on car A will not neccessarily work on car B.
again, just bc you see unexperienced looking people working at a "detail shop" charging $100 for a full detail that might take them 3 hours....this is not easy. do research, scan the forum i mentioned above, and develope a basic understanding of buffing and correcting/polish/finishing paint. many of the users on autopia.org are among the BEST in this industry, and really know their stuff!
i suggest, as othes have, to start with a porter cable random orbital polisher. i went straight to a hgih speed buffer, but its probably best that you begin with something that is safer for the paints finish, while at the same time can achieve a nice polish and SOME correction with it.
With patience, a PC will do serious correction, along with light wetsanding in some cases...
Also, the newer flex orbitals are becoming popular.
And meguiars products are pretty nice, and usually available over the counter.
Also, the newer flex orbitals are becoming popular.
And meguiars products are pretty nice, and usually available over the counter.
I was suggesting a orbital, ( I guess I assumed porter cable was the popular brand for this). Does not really matter how he arrives at orbital, but that will keep him safe.
NO NO NO! IT DOES REQUIRE EXPERIENCE. I dont care how many videos you watch on youtube or who you talk to over the phone, its not that simple. Depending on what buffer you even want to use makes a big difference. For example a autozone 15 dollar buffer wont due **** to your finish, and most likely burn up on your before you get the whole car done. I use a Milwaukee grinder with a quick disconnect for different pads. It has different RPM settings which need to be changed for different compounds. If your RPM is too slow, or to fast your can really F up your finish. The movement of the buffer also needs to remain constant, also not to slow, or to fast. The most common mistake made is to much rpm, and to slow of movement which will "burn threw" the clear and paint. Leaving your screwed.
A good shop should be able to buff, glaze, & hand glaze your car for about 300 bucks, maybe cheaper. It is expensive, but the difference is truly night and day. If you want your car to really be the ****, get it hand wet sanded with 1500,2000, then 2500. Then buffed, and glazed. That will be a bit more, but your car will be show quality. Just a few tips.
Please do not try it. Let someone who knows what the hell they are doing mess with your car.
A good shop should be able to buff, glaze, & hand glaze your car for about 300 bucks, maybe cheaper. It is expensive, but the difference is truly night and day. If you want your car to really be the ****, get it hand wet sanded with 1500,2000, then 2500. Then buffed, and glazed. That will be a bit more, but your car will be show quality. Just a few tips.
Please do not try it. Let someone who knows what the hell they are doing mess with your car.
Do a little reasearch here, It will tell you everything you need to know...
www.Autopia.org
www.Autopia.org
No its not rocket science....but for a actual quality finish there is a science to it, and anyone that knows what im talking about will agree. If your car is worth buffing, then its also most likely worth having it done by someone who will do it right. A car shouldn't need buffed every month. After one good buff, and a nice coat of wax it should last for a hella long time depending on when, how, and where you drive it. I have personally done repairs on hoods, fenders, you name it from people trying to buff their own cars, and burnt straight threw to the primer. The bill is usually about as much to get the buff job, sometimes more depending on how much blending needs to be done. Just take that into consideration.
If you insist on doing it yourself, apply little to no pressure on the corners, keep a constant motion of the buffer, make sure to use micro fiber towels to wipe the excess compound off, and clean the buffing pad regularly.
If you insist on doing it yourself, apply little to no pressure on the corners, keep a constant motion of the buffer, make sure to use micro fiber towels to wipe the excess compound off, and clean the buffing pad regularly.
www.autopia.org will tell you anything and everythin you need to know about detailing
as others have said, it is not rocket science, but it IS a skill that is tough to learn. and dont think bc you see crackhead looking guys at local car washes and detail shops that this detailing thing is easy. it is not. it IS easy to take a buffer, crank up the speed way to high, and slide it across the paint very fast to make the car "shine" again. anythone can do that
what it takes is the right knowledge of pads and polishes, how to find the perfect combination to achieve the results you are after, and how to go about this withOUT creating swirl marks, holgrams, or buffer trails all over the car. this is the hard part. every finish is different. some paints harder, some softer, some clearcoats thinner. you really have to know your stuff! what works on car A will not neccessarily work on car B.
again, just bc you see unexperienced looking people working at a "detail shop" charging $100 for a full detail that might take them 3 hours....this is not easy. do research, scan the forum i mentioned above, and develope a basic understanding of buffing and correcting/polish/finishing paint. many of the users on autopia.org are among the BEST in this industry, and really know their stuff!
i suggest, as othes have, to start with a porter cable random orbital polisher. i went straight to a hgih speed buffer, but its probably best that you begin with something that is safer for the paints finish, while at the same time can achieve a nice polish and SOME correction with it.
as others have said, it is not rocket science, but it IS a skill that is tough to learn. and dont think bc you see crackhead looking guys at local car washes and detail shops that this detailing thing is easy. it is not. it IS easy to take a buffer, crank up the speed way to high, and slide it across the paint very fast to make the car "shine" again. anythone can do that
what it takes is the right knowledge of pads and polishes, how to find the perfect combination to achieve the results you are after, and how to go about this withOUT creating swirl marks, holgrams, or buffer trails all over the car. this is the hard part. every finish is different. some paints harder, some softer, some clearcoats thinner. you really have to know your stuff! what works on car A will not neccessarily work on car B.
again, just bc you see unexperienced looking people working at a "detail shop" charging $100 for a full detail that might take them 3 hours....this is not easy. do research, scan the forum i mentioned above, and develope a basic understanding of buffing and correcting/polish/finishing paint. many of the users on autopia.org are among the BEST in this industry, and really know their stuff!
i suggest, as othes have, to start with a porter cable random orbital polisher. i went straight to a hgih speed buffer, but its probably best that you begin with something that is safer for the paints finish, while at the same time can achieve a nice polish and SOME correction with it.
Listen to these guys. They pretty much said everything I was gonna jump in here and say! LOL.
Seriously go to that site (Autopia) spend the next few WEEKS reading, THEN buy the stuff you want and will be wanting and begin practicing! Good luck to you!
