Hey guys, I’m sure I’m not the first to do this but I couldn’t find any write ups on cleaning up the passenger strut tower without cutting a hole.
So in short, I wanted to clean up my towers without cutting any holes, so I came to see that there was space behind the coolant lines that run down the side of the engine bay that I could tuck the wiring loom behind.

First step was to disconnect the connectors and pull the harness off the tower, followed by pulling the pcm connectors and removing the pcm and bracket so you have room to work.

Next, there’s a torx screw holding the coolant line bracket right to the side of the strut tower, remove that screw so that the lines are loose.

Now, if you follow the loom towards the headlight, you’ll see a vacuum line going to the underside to the vacuum canister. That line goes from the canister essentially under the battery, up to a “T” back by the PCM. There’s a ton of slack on that line and you’ll need to pull some excess hose to the front to allow the rest of the loom to actually shift towards the back of the tower.

So take note that the original routing puts the harness adjacent to the fender going towards the front and around the left and in FRONT of the battery.
This method will relocate the harness to the RIGHT side of the battery.

Then you can reroute the wiring loom to tuck behind the coolant lines. It’s a bit of a tight fit and you’ll have to finesse the connectors ends through some tight spots towards the back inner side of the strut tower but you should be able to tuck it behind the coolant lines and pull it back enough to get the male connectors to clip in at the back of the strut tower.
Once you’ve got them all clips back in at the back of the strut tower, you can pull the slack back towards the front as much as possible.

Now remember, originally the harness came from the left of the battery and there’s a “T” in the harness where the headlight and turn signal bulbs, etc. come out. You’ll have to open that T up actually relocate that a few inches further down the harness. Otherwise the harness will interfere with the battery tray/coolant reservoir. Moving the T point will allow the wire the space to run entirely to the right of the battery and keep the bulbs having enough slack to reach the lamps.

Once you’ve determined a new point far enough forward to recreate the “T”, you can pull back the slack on the vacuum line towards the back and you can Friction tape a new T point and shift the loom around to retain an OEM look.

Lastly just refasten your coolant hose bracket and PCM and essentially this is it. You can choose to relocate your grounds the same way as the other wire mods suggest, but here you are with a clean strut tower and no new holes.

I’ll get pictures ordered as soon as I get a chance,
Thanks for reading and please let’s me know your comments, questions, and concerns!

 

Not a bad alternative

 

While it does look better, I don't like that wiring is now running right next to the header primaries.

 

too close to the headers even with dei wrap on there for me .

 

I was weary about the proximity to the headers as well. as well as being tucked behind the coolant lines there, but I've taken the car out a few times now and haven't had any problems. No signs of scorching or burn marks. As the summer months approach, I do want to try and get a few thermocouples up in there so I can see the actual temperature along the wires and get some hard data here to confirm if this is truly a viable alternative. Stay tuned!

 

I wouldn't be so worried about an immediate failure / burning. I'd be more worried of higher temperatures and the heat cycling causing the insulation to become brittle and fail prematurely.