Line Lock Relay and Electrical Questions
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Line Lock Relay and Electrical Questions
I got to thinking, When I reinstall my line lock id like to have LEDs to let me know what position its in. The switch is a simple toggle that completes the ground. So I guess I could wire one straight before the switch, and it would go on when the Toggle completes the circuit. But then I though what about two leds, a red and a green. When its red its locked, green its open. To do this all I would need to do is use a relay right, and when its closed, red led gets power and when its open, power goes to the green led. Is that correct?
One final question. I have some LEDs, they are for an alarm, but 12v blows them, unless they are wired in series with a bunch of them. What would I put inline to break the 12v to 3v? (thats what my alarm puts out on the LED line). A resistor or something? Thanks,
John
One final question. I have some LEDs, they are for an alarm, but 12v blows them, unless they are wired in series with a bunch of them. What would I put inline to break the 12v to 3v? (thats what my alarm puts out on the LED line). A resistor or something? Thanks,
John
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I did something similar to what you want on my car. I used an extra fog lamp switch and changed the LED to red. The Switch had to go on the hot side. There was no voltage drop on the ground side of the solenoid. (I tried it that way.)
So now my system goes from hot to a fuse (very important), to the switch (LED in parallel, goes to ground), to the hot side of the solenoid, from the ground side of the solenoid to the car ground. The LED is lit when the line lock is activated, dark when it is not.
Result:
So now my system goes from hot to a fuse (very important), to the switch (LED in parallel, goes to ground), to the hot side of the solenoid, from the ground side of the solenoid to the car ground. The LED is lit when the line lock is activated, dark when it is not.
Result:
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Thanks. I thought about something else. If you use the light relay for the red/green option you will probably want another "arming" switch. Off no LED's light up, on it's either green or red. LED's have a very low current draw, but I don't think you would want the green LED shining 100% of the time, like even when you don't drive it for a couple weeks, etc.
I also forgot about the voltage. My LED's are rated for 2.0v. I added a resistor in series with the LED to drop the voltage.
Here's a simple calculator for the resistor: Voltage Drop Calculator
I also forgot about the voltage. My LED's are rated for 2.0v. I added a resistor in series with the LED to drop the voltage.
Here's a simple calculator for the resistor: Voltage Drop Calculator
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Thats true. I think ill do a single LED switch like yours, and make it red for on. Is their any text on them (I mean actualprinted text on the buttons)? Thanks.
John
John
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2K:
There's no symbol on the switch...YET. I did black out the fog symbol. I have been trying to figure away to put one on the switches. (the 3rd switch with the blue light is for the power antenna.) Haven't figured it out yet. Want it to look professional and "OEM".
1998TA:
I had a piece of 1/8" plastic. You can find similar stuff at a hobby shop or www.mcmaster.com. I removed the lighter plug and I shaped the plastic to fit. Then I cut out the two gauge holes, lined it up and cut the same out on the center console. Then I epoxied the plate to the center console. Here's another view of the gauges:
There's no symbol on the switch...YET. I did black out the fog symbol. I have been trying to figure away to put one on the switches. (the 3rd switch with the blue light is for the power antenna.) Haven't figured it out yet. Want it to look professional and "OEM".
1998TA:
I had a piece of 1/8" plastic. You can find similar stuff at a hobby shop or www.mcmaster.com. I removed the lighter plug and I shaped the plastic to fit. Then I cut out the two gauge holes, lined it up and cut the same out on the center console. Then I epoxied the plate to the center console. Here's another view of the gauges: