Window Motors
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by SlvrV6Camaro
All I will say is they are a PITA to replace......
Whats a PITA is getting the door panels lined up properly after applying sound-deadening.
The regulator is the track that the window moves up and down on. They usually don't go bad.
I don't agree with one write up where you leave the regulator in the car and drill the holes in the door.
The way I always do it is remove the whole regulator assembly with the motor attatched to it, Put it in a bench vice, replace the motor, and then put the whole assembly back in. I've done about 20 this way.
I don't agree with one write up where you leave the regulator in the car and drill the holes in the door.
The way I always do it is remove the whole regulator assembly with the motor attatched to it, Put it in a bench vice, replace the motor, and then put the whole assembly back in. I've done about 20 this way.
the window motors are easy if your local ill come to you and install it for 35 and if you come to me 25 i throw down two in f body in about 45 min.....
as a note the motors from autozone etc. come with small *** screws that are hard to work with go to the hardware store and spend 55 cents on some that are a bit longer
*edit not trying to sell or promote anything just trying to demonstrate how easy it is
as a note the motors from autozone etc. come with small *** screws that are hard to work with go to the hardware store and spend 55 cents on some that are a bit longer
*edit not trying to sell or promote anything just trying to demonstrate how easy it is
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
From: SW Florida
Originally Posted by Arcticws6
Nice car btw Young, looks very familiar 
Now if mine only had ur mileage 
Now if mine only had ur mileage 
but all arctic white T/A's are 
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
From: SW Florida
Originally Posted by Arcticws6
This is the write up I used to change the motors in my TA, worked great. Once you do the first one, the second one's easy. Took me around 2 hours total, taking my time to do it right
Window Motor Writeup
Window Motor Writeup
oops, forgot to add a thank you for that link!! I have that link saved now so I can look back at it when I replace my motors... You guys on here are great!
Originally Posted by VIP1
The bulge is normal.
I've had that since my car was new.
The bracket to which to motor is attached is held in with a few rivets attaching it to the inner door skin. Well, they ground their holes larger and the whole bracket moved making the door bulge worse and the window tilted when reaching a certain position while going up/down. So I made a brace from 2"X3/8" aluminum to place on the side of the inner door skin facing the interior and drilled/bolted through it to the bracket on the other side of the inner door skin making a sandwich (Motor bracket - Inner Door Skin - New Brace).
Sorry, I dont have pictures.
Getting pictures isnt the easiest now either since I added sound deadening over everything and getting the panel lined-up correctly afterwards was a PITA, so I'd rather no go in there again.
Here is a rough drawing using a pic I found. (attached)
I also had to make a notch for the motor bracket's tab to fit over the new brace I made. The notch is only big enough (and beveled) for the tab to fit over the new brace. It looks bigger in the drawing than it really is.
I've had that since my car was new.
The bracket to which to motor is attached is held in with a few rivets attaching it to the inner door skin. Well, they ground their holes larger and the whole bracket moved making the door bulge worse and the window tilted when reaching a certain position while going up/down. So I made a brace from 2"X3/8" aluminum to place on the side of the inner door skin facing the interior and drilled/bolted through it to the bracket on the other side of the inner door skin making a sandwich (Motor bracket - Inner Door Skin - New Brace).
Sorry, I dont have pictures.
Getting pictures isnt the easiest now either since I added sound deadening over everything and getting the panel lined-up correctly afterwards was a PITA, so I'd rather no go in there again.
Here is a rough drawing using a pic I found. (attached)
I also had to make a notch for the motor bracket's tab to fit over the new brace I made. The notch is only big enough (and beveled) for the tab to fit over the new brace. It looks bigger in the drawing than it really is.
So I was thinking I could drill out those rivets and fix some of the fiberglass with Bondo, and then replace them with nut bolt washer combos. But when I drilled out the rivets, the metal bracket flew counterclockwise! That's because I was an idiot and didn't take the time to learn how the regulator works. Luckily the bracket got stuck on a metal part of the door so it only rotated 90 degrees. Also the rivets at that part are welded to the metal bracket for some reason
My new plan:
-Remove the glass from the door
-Secure the regulator so the bracket and gear arm won't unwind
-remove regulator from door
-cut rivets from bracket
-create a metal bracket sandwich like you described reassemble the regulator into the door bolt it up
-put glass back on and put in new window motor and reassemble the rest
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
From: Northern Va
I replaced the passenger side motor on my wife's car (the car only had 7k on it, WTF?) and I thought the job was very easy. I thought the motors were going out on my Z too (both were real slow) but when I replaced my battery last weekend they're both working great again.
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Verdad Gallardo Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
z28bryan,
That sux.
Sounds like you have a handle on a solution though.
Bondo won't be strong enough.
Use a good strong two-part plastic epoxy
(and give it appropriate time to harden).
Making a brace Like I did is also a good idea
(Maybe two braces...upper and lower).
If the existing holes are too worn out,
maybe making new holes will be a better idea.
I'm not there seeing/handling the door and bracket
so I dont know for sure.
That sux.
Sounds like you have a handle on a solution though.
Bondo won't be strong enough.
Use a good strong two-part plastic epoxy
(and give it appropriate time to harden).
Making a brace Like I did is also a good idea
(Maybe two braces...upper and lower).
If the existing holes are too worn out,
maybe making new holes will be a better idea.
I'm not there seeing/handling the door and bracket
so I dont know for sure.
Last edited by VIP1; Feb 6, 2006 at 10:25 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
How can you tell if you motor is going out or if the window is just binding in some way. My window moves well throughout most of the cycle, but always seems to slow as it reaches the top. I think that it is due to my window binding against the metal brackets at the edge of the window sill. Anyone have any ideas.
