Brake rotor rust
Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
They have a cheese grater effect on your pads, and they can crack along the slots, well, cheap ones can... but hey, they look pimp!
67, your response isn't really much better than his. One end of the pendulum swing to the other.
Properly made sloted/drilled rotors with compatible pads can work fine on our cars. But you're not going to find a setup like that for $160 for a 4 set.
The cheapies (in other words, what 95% of people will buy) are prone crack, promote more dust, and faster/uneven pad wear. It is well known, and there are many examples to be found on this very forum. That is why it is generally recommened to people asking that they stay away from them.
Properly made sloted/drilled rotors with compatible pads can work fine on our cars. But you're not going to find a setup like that for $160 for a 4 set.
The cheapies (in other words, what 95% of people will buy) are prone crack, promote more dust, and faster/uneven pad wear. It is well known, and there are many examples to be found on this very forum. That is why it is generally recommened to people asking that they stay away from them.
Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
Maybe if your pads are made out of cheese.. They do not tear up pads, they wear normally. I've gone through TONS of sets of brake pads on motorcycles with crossdrilled rotors, they wear just the same as they would a regular rotor. The holes and slots have a slight chamfer on them so they don't grab or nick anything. Dont post up BS that you come up with in your head, some people actually read these forums to learn.
Like I said...I thought drilled and slotted rotors may make pads wear sooner. If 95% of the rotors people buy are "cheap"... ...than telling people to buy them may not be the best advice. There is no need to be a jackass, especially when you dont quite know what you are talking about...
The cheapies (in other words, what 95% of people will buy) are prone crack, promote more dust, and faster/uneven pad wear.
Dont post up BS that you come up with in your head, some people actually read these forums to learn.
Isnt that the way with everything? You get what you pay for. Good slotted brakes usually dont' have adverse wear and tear compared to normal plain jane rotors. Good ones also cool better, reducing the chances of warping, and provide a little more "bite" due to lack of gas buildup between rotor and pad. Drilled/slotted rotors also reduce unsprung weight, which helps suspension performance. I did not suggest someone buy them, I was calling BS on "cheese grating.".. Buying a ratchet from harbor freight that slips and busts your knuckles is no reason to discredit the theory of a ratchet. I see no difference in those two theories. Normally i wouldnt flame someone for typing that, but spuds types nonstop BS, and it irks me that much of the advice people state as fact isnt true.
olly
olly
Last edited by 67RSCamaroVette; Mar 22, 2006 at 12:13 AM.
Back on-topic
I need to clean up and paint mine also. What is the best way to mask off the "contact" surface of the rotor before painting? I don't want uneven lines from the masking tape.
I need to clean up and paint mine also. What is the best way to mask off the "contact" surface of the rotor before painting? I don't want uneven lines from the masking tape.
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Maybe if your pads are made out of cheese.. They do not tear up pads, they wear normally. I've gone through TONS of sets of brake pads on motorcycles with crossdrilled rotors, they wear just the same as they would a regular rotor. The holes and slots have a slight chamfer on them so they don't grab or nick anything. Dont post up BS that you come up with in your head, some people actually read these forums to learn.
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And as nice as drilled/slotted rotors look...ive seen too many of them cracked, so i just buy the autozone blanks and call it a day
I painted my rotors about a year ago. They still look near perfect.
They still show no rust on the out side edges or on the inside drum part.
I brushed them down with a steel wool brush then wiped them down with brake cleaner, then painted them.
They still show no rust on the out side edges or on the inside drum part.
I brushed them down with a steel wool brush then wiped them down with brake cleaner, then painted them.
Other than looking cool and keeping some of your braking components "cooler," there is really no gain from drilled/slotted rotors. You loose precious surface area with them. Most cars/bikes that come with them have the correct setup where it will work over time especially when it has to meet strict safety standards of building and selling a new car. Aftermarket products don't have to go through the strict scrutinizing that OEM parts have too.
I powdercoated mine a while back and got FLAMED for it. Then when everything turned out great, noone said a ******' word. Here's a link to the thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/893028-work-goes-into-powdercoating-calipers.html
be sure to read the whole thing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/893028-work-goes-into-powdercoating-calipers.html
be sure to read the whole thing.
