harwood hood blows
#1
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I thought my the hood I ordered was a direct fit/bolt in.....guess not.
--The primary latch wouldn't bolt in because there was some epoxy overpsrayed where that little tab needs to poke through. Had to drill it out, but my drill is at my friend's house. Got creative with some self tapping screws to remove the excess material.
--The stock secondary hood latch (that you have to open by hand after you pop your hood) uses a 10mm bolt. Harwwod decided to tap their hood for another 13mm like the rest.....but they forgot that the latch's holes are only big enough for a 10mm.......So I now have to go and have the latch bracket drill presses out so it can accomodate a 13mm bolt.
--Finally, I was never told, nor have I ever read that you need to "trim" off some lip that is supposed to protect it during shipping. So much for a DIY in your gargage for your average car enthusiest.
Should have went with a VFN, but the moron hood only comes in pin-on
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
--The primary latch wouldn't bolt in because there was some epoxy overpsrayed where that little tab needs to poke through. Had to drill it out, but my drill is at my friend's house. Got creative with some self tapping screws to remove the excess material.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
--The stock secondary hood latch (that you have to open by hand after you pop your hood) uses a 10mm bolt. Harwwod decided to tap their hood for another 13mm like the rest.....but they forgot that the latch's holes are only big enough for a 10mm.......So I now have to go and have the latch bracket drill presses out so it can accomodate a 13mm bolt.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
--Finally, I was never told, nor have I ever read that you need to "trim" off some lip that is supposed to protect it during shipping. So much for a DIY in your gargage for your average car enthusiest.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
Should have went with a VFN, but the moron hood only comes in pin-on
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
#3
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Originally Posted by 2_wacko
Which harwood hood did you get? Harwood hoods do have some fittment issues.
I read a bunch of theads about hoods and everyone with a harwwod was very satisfied with fitment. I guess they didn't say much about install though.
I am gonna put it on now without the 2nd latch for now, and see how it fits. I imagine it will fit like ****, until I trim that gay edge that is on it.
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Originally Posted by ninetres
the 3" show style cowl....the wide one.
I read a bunch of theads about hods and everyone with a harwwod was very satisfied with fitment. I guess they didn't say much about install though.
I am gonna put it on now without the 2nd latch fo now, and see how it fits. I imagine it will fit like ****, until I trim that gay edge that is on it.
I read a bunch of theads about hods and everyone with a harwwod was very satisfied with fitment. I guess they didn't say much about install though.
I am gonna put it on now without the 2nd latch fo now, and see how it fits. I imagine it will fit like ****, until I trim that gay edge that is on it.
#6
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a Harwood 2 1/2" Cowl Induction hood on my '88 Camaro. I thought mine fit pretty well, and the flat surfaces were smoother than some of the other 'glass hoods I've seen. I remember being kind of surprised myself when I realized that I'd have to trim the hood to fit. Needless to say I learned how to do it pretty quick ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I ended up trading a coworker hood struts. His struts were worn out and wouldn't hold the steel hood up on his '87 IROC, and mine were fairly new and were to stiff for the Harwood hood on my Camaro. The worn out struts worked perfectly![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I ended up trading a coworker hood struts. His struts were worn out and wouldn't hold the steel hood up on his '87 IROC, and mine were fairly new and were to stiff for the Harwood hood on my Camaro. The worn out struts worked perfectly
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![](http://www.scottsrides.com/old_rides_camaro_1.jpg)
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![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by ninetres
I thought my the hood I ordered was a direct fit/bolt in.....guess not.
--The primary latch wouldn't bolt in because there was some epoxy overpsrayed where that little tab needs to poke through. Had to drill it out, but my drill is at my friend's house. Got creative with some self tapping screws to remove the excess material.
--The stock secondary hood latch (that you have to open by hand after you pop your hood) uses a 10mm bolt. Harwwod decided to tap their hood for another 13mm like the rest.....but they forgot that the latch's holes are only big enough for a 10mm.......So I now have to go and have the latch bracket drill presses out so it can accomodate a 13mm bolt.
--Finally, I was never told, nor have I ever read that you need to "trim" off some lip that is supposed to protect it during shipping. So much for a DIY in your gargage for your average car enthusiest.
Should have went with a VFN, but the moron hood only comes in pin-on![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
--The primary latch wouldn't bolt in because there was some epoxy overpsrayed where that little tab needs to poke through. Had to drill it out, but my drill is at my friend's house. Got creative with some self tapping screws to remove the excess material.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
--The stock secondary hood latch (that you have to open by hand after you pop your hood) uses a 10mm bolt. Harwwod decided to tap their hood for another 13mm like the rest.....but they forgot that the latch's holes are only big enough for a 10mm.......So I now have to go and have the latch bracket drill presses out so it can accomodate a 13mm bolt.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
--Finally, I was never told, nor have I ever read that you need to "trim" off some lip that is supposed to protect it during shipping. So much for a DIY in your gargage for your average car enthusiest.
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
Should have went with a VFN, but the moron hood only comes in pin-on
![Gay!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_rainbow.gif)
FWIW: I have close to 8 hours of prep into my VFN Sunoco hood and it's no where near ready for paint yet. I havn't even set it on the car yet either. It's gonna look badass when it's done though.
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#8
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
You have to expect to run into **** like that with fiberglass hoods. The 13mm bolt hole is kind of dumb though.
FWIW: I have close to 8 hours of prep into my VFN Sunoco hood and it's no where near ready for paint yet. I havn't even set it on the car yet either. It's gonna look badass when it's done though.
FWIW: I have close to 8 hours of prep into my VFN Sunoco hood and it's no where near ready for paint yet. I havn't even set it on the car yet either. It's gonna look badass when it's done though.
I am sorry but that is ridiculous. Are the companies REALLY selling $400-$800 hoods that are such $hit???? I refuse to just accept that we should expect to have to do so much work to a "paint ready" EXPENSIVE product.
How do the companies get away with selling such garbage???
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Handmade fiberglass hoods can be hard to get 100% perfect. Some are pretty good out of the box but most need to be blocked to knock down any little bumps and waves. To get a hood 100% show perfect I would expect to spend atleast 2-3 hours of prep and fitting out of the box.
Mine is a full pin on that I got on a GP, so maybe they just said **** this and slammed it out the door. Most of my problem is in the cowl, not sure if it wasn't rolled good or what but I had to skim coat alot of low spots to get the shape of it even and consistant.
Also, my 8 hours of work would probrably take a real body guy 4-5.
Mine is a full pin on that I got on a GP, so maybe they just said **** this and slammed it out the door. Most of my problem is in the cowl, not sure if it wasn't rolled good or what but I had to skim coat alot of low spots to get the shape of it even and consistant.
Also, my 8 hours of work would probrably take a real body guy 4-5.
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Originally Posted by ninetres
the 3" show style cowl....the wide one.
I read a bunch of theads about hoods and everyone with a harwwod was very satisfied with fitment. I guess they didn't say much about install though.
I am gonna put it on now without the 2nd latch for now, and see how it fits. I imagine it will fit like ****, until I trim that gay edge that is on it.
I read a bunch of theads about hoods and everyone with a harwwod was very satisfied with fitment. I guess they didn't say much about install though.
I am gonna put it on now without the 2nd latch for now, and see how it fits. I imagine it will fit like ****, until I trim that gay edge that is on it.
#12
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Originally Posted by bhz28
I guess you just got a bad hood, I got mine and didn't have any problems, fit perfect. Sometimes that happens with fiberglass. But Harwood is a much better company than VFN, I ordered one of their hoods before I got the Harwood, and it was CRAP it had pin holes all over it that had to be filled, and the hood was very thin. My harwood came and it had no pin holes and wasn't as thin.
--The primamry latch (that releases from the dash) was not in the right place. Even when installed all the way to the left of the bracket, The latch doesn't line up centered in the the little valley that in needs to fall into--> it is still rubbing on the right side of the valley when you shut it.
--Also, under the 10"x10" Harwood sticker they put on the top of the hood, WAS A GOOD SIZE SCRATCH that will DEFINITLY require bodywork to fill/smooth out. How convienent that they put their ****** sticker right over this ****** giant scratch.
I'm just gonna bite the bullet and pay a million dollars to a body shop to prep/install/paint this POS.
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Originally Posted by ninetres
In addition to my above complaints:
--The primamry latch (that releases from the dash) was not in the right place. Even when installed all the way to the left of the bracket, The latch doesn't line up centered in the the little valley that in needs to fall into--> it is still rubbing on the right side of the valley when you shut it.
--Also, under the 10"x10" Harwood sticker they put on the top of the hood, WAS A GOOD SIZE SCRATCH that will DEFINITLY require bodywork to fill/smooth out. How convienent that they put their ****** sticker right over this ****** giant scratch.
I'm just gonna bite the bullet and pay a million dollars to a body shop to prep/install/paint this POS.
--The primamry latch (that releases from the dash) was not in the right place. Even when installed all the way to the left of the bracket, The latch doesn't line up centered in the the little valley that in needs to fall into--> it is still rubbing on the right side of the valley when you shut it.
--Also, under the 10"x10" Harwood sticker they put on the top of the hood, WAS A GOOD SIZE SCRATCH that will DEFINITLY require bodywork to fill/smooth out. How convienent that they put their ****** sticker right over this ****** giant scratch.
I'm just gonna bite the bullet and pay a million dollars to a body shop to prep/install/paint this POS.
why don't you call them and tell them about it, they should be able to work something out with you.